Headphones for CTX 3030 parts list

[OBN]

m12 connector..connections and

I try and fill with a epoxy, not really needed since the m12 is IP68 but a extra precaution to keep the insides from twisting.

 

[Briman05]

m12 connector..connections and

I try and fill with a epoxy, not really needed since the m12 is IP68 but a extra precaution to keep the insides from twisting.

Is that going into the into the ctx or the peltors

 

[OBN]

Is that going into the into the ctx or the peltors

This is the one that goes on your head phone cord which plugs into the CTX

 

[Briman05]

This is the one that goes on your head phone cord which plugs into the CTX

So you need to heyco attachments

 

[itsaring!]

IMO I would use say a set of non waterproof sun ray pro golds and change the plug end to a CTX pin plug if the headphones never get wet. It is amazing what you find you can't hear with the waterproof CTX yellows and switch to the pro golds. I'm still amazed at my results in testing them both.You leave a lot behind with the yellows you never notice. Been hunting salt beaches several years with the pro golds I use. I use them on the CTX, Sov gt and my DFX too.

 

[coin chaser]

IMO I would use say a set of non waterproof sun ray pro golds and change the plug end to a CTX pin plug if the headphones never get wet. It is amazing what you find you can't hear with the waterproof CTX yellows and switch to the pro golds. I'm still amazed at my results in testing them both.You leave a lot behind with the yellows you never notice. Been hunting salt beaches several years with the pro golds I use. I use them on the CTX, Sov gt and my DFX too.

That's the whole point of this for me. I want a set of land/water headphones that sound good. Unfortunately they don't exist yet and I don't want to use non waterproof headphones in the rivers I hunt in. These builds aren't just crappy headphones, the tones are great from what I've seen in my testing so far. Plus it's helping get me through the winter!

 

[OBN]

IMO I would use say a set of non waterproof sun ray pro golds and change the plug end to a CTX pin plug if the headphones never get wet. It is amazing what you find you can't hear with the waterproof CTX yellows and switch to the pro golds. I'm still amazed at my results in testing them both.You leave a lot behind with the yellows you never notice. Been hunting salt beaches several years with the pro golds I use. I use them on the CTX, Sov gt and my DFX too.

The Audiosears 2463's, which I did a lot of research on are the same speakers used in the SunRay Pro Golds, Black Widows. Jolly Rodgers, Grey Ghost and the list goes on. The only other speaker that could match the audiosears were the Kobitones which were used in the RatPhones..one is tinner, the kob's lower. Kob's are no longer made.

 

[itsaring!]

The Audiosears 2463's, which I did a lot of research on are the same speakers used in the SunRay Pro Golds, Black Widows. Jolly Rodgers, Grey Ghost and the list goes on. The only other speaker that could match the audiosears were the Kobitones which were used in the RatPhones..one is tinner, the kob's lower. Kob's are no longer made.

Love the scale Joe. Is there a comparison on what the speaker does in non waterproof version?

 

[itsaring!]

That's the whole point of this for me. I want a set of land/water headphones that sound good. Unfortunately they don't exist yet and I don't want to use non waterproof headphones in the rivers I hunt in. These builds aren't just crappy headphones, the tones are great from what I've seen in my testing so far. Plus it's helping get me through the winter!

What I was meaning is if you don't have to use them waterproof, don't. These are just my headphones for the CTX. My Sunray pro golds has better sound that the gray ghost non waterproof sitting right next to it. The middle is grayghost Amphibians. To the right is Koss yellow and the pnes all the way on the right are underwaters. The underwaters suck even used on my Whites DFX and sov gt. But it is also going to depend on the persons sound perception.

 

[coin chaser]

What I was meaning is if you don't have to use them waterproof, don't. These are just my headphones for the CTX. My Sunray pro golds has better sound that the gray ghost non waterproof sitting right next to it. The middle is grayghost Amphibians. To the right is Koss yellow and the pnes all the way on the right are underwaters. The underwaters suck even used on my Whites DFX and sov gt. But it is also going to depend on the persons sound perception.

I understand but I hunt land and water. Fact is that the water headsets for the CTX suck unless you go amphibians and put the CTX connector on them (at least I heard they are good). Either way I hate having two sets of headphones because they have different tones. It's like you have to learn water tones and land tones. I don't want that, I want good quality that can do land and water, light weight, low profile, use on any detector, and same tones land and water. That doesn't exist yet man so there's only one thing I could do.... So I'm making it happen. I've done lots of research talked to OBN (thanks for the help) and even been on the phone with minelab techs. I will make it happen and even have a few little perks that aren't avalible for the CTX or headphones at this time. Some people just have it in their blood to tinker and build stuff man and I'm one of them.
And yes I have the underwater GG too and yes they suck!

 

[OBN]

Love the scale Joe. Is there a comparison on what the speaker does in non waterproof version?

Good Point, I think I did some compares very early on and it was the same, I will search thru and find.. I do know I went to a double piece of Gortex on each speaker and there was no difference. One thing I did notice and this was every setup. The strongest Sound pressure level was at the bottom of the speaker in the corner just inside of the ear muff pad.

And all of the test early on were with the Excalibur so looking at, there was no loss from what I can see, and the test was with a single speaker. And the one in the chart was in the head set two speakers wired in series. Except for the yellow koss which were bone stock..

 

[OBN]

So you need to heyco attachments

Not needed, just spreads the load out. One without

 

[OBN]

found these pics of one of the MSA sets I did, how I mounted the speakers and the pipe insulation I used to fill the gap.

 

[Dewalt]

Thank you for sharing your experience Joe. One of my favourite sayings is you can not buy experience

You are a Champion

 

[Briman05]

Not needed, just spreads the load out. One without

Is that heat shrinked. Also how do you know which pin to connect the coiled cables to in the 8 pin connector. Could you should how you connect the coiled cable to the speaker with the cross over cable attached.

 

[OBN]

Away right now but will repost once I get home.. a quick piece together.

Also the shrink tubing was the type with the hot glue for a better seal, but not really needed.

Hot glue sticks work well to seal the wires but I prefer the epoxy, in the next to last pic you can see where the coiled cable comes in from the detector and is sealed with all of the main connections, and this is the right ear cup.

And the coiled cable has 5 wires, so I just cut one off and double up on the other two.

Which pins go to which on the coiled cable, I never worry about because the audiosears are not marked, pos \ neg and I have tested several different ways and there is no difference. In Series, in parallel, swapped wires around, used both ops on the pins.....all the same performance and longevity.

 

[coin chaser]

double post....

 

[coin chaser]

Now that's interesting. If you wire two 150ohm speakers in parallel it would be a 75ohm load but if you wire them in series it's a 300ohm load. Have you ever tested the DB levels with them wired each way? That's seams like a major difference in load I would think at least the tone would change a bit. I guess maybe being that there's not a true amp in the md and it's not like a stereo that your cranking the volume up on the difference is insignificant. As I have told you before thanks for all your help and sharing your experience Joe. It's clear the amount of time you have spent working on this stuff.

 

[OBN]

Now that's interesting. If you wire two 150ohm speakers in parallel it would be a 75ohm load but if you wire them in series it's a 300ohm load. Have you ever tested the DB levels with them wired each way? That's seams like a major difference in load I would think at least the tone would change a bit. I guess maybe being that there's not a true amp in the md and it's not like a stereo that your cranking the volume up on the difference is insignificant. As I have told you before thanks for all your help and sharing your experience Joe. It's clear the amount of time you have spent working on this stuff.

Thank You, really not enough difference to even notice with the ears the way one wires. Can't remember if I tested with a meter though. At one time I though maybe I would be using the CTX more but the xcal is still my main focus so all work I planned for the CTX stopped. There is still a lot to be learned so it's up to you CTX guys now...

 

[Jeff in Georgia]

Now that's interesting. If you wire two 150ohm speakers in parallel it would be a 75ohm load but if you wire them in series it's a 300ohm load. Have you ever tested the DB levels with them wired each way? That's seams like a major difference in load I would think at least the tone would change a bit. I guess maybe being that there's not a true amp in the md and it's not like a stereo that your cranking the volume up on the difference is insignificant. As I have told you before thanks for all your help and sharing your experience Joe. It's clear the amount of time you have spent working on this stuff.

How much difference in battery life with the different speaker resistances?
Also have seen some using 600 ohm speakers in their builds. Any advantage to that?

Thanks!