2 hour notch experiment park hunt. 5 rings.

Diga

Elite Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
3,249
When I want jewelry, I hunt in the water. In my water sites, targets are few and far between, but just about every target is some type of jewelry. Problem is, my water sites are very limited, so when I want jewelry, I often have to resort to dirt hunting.

At the end of my last hunting season, I swore that I would give up on dirt hunting for jewelry in sites like parks. I found it to be both mentally and physically exhausting to dig up all that aluminum trash, with only a very rare chance of finding jewelry. So yesterday, I decided to try a notching experiment in one of my local parks.

The experiment notched out the ID numbers that are far more likely to be aluminum trash or pennies / dimes. On my Legend for example, I notched out 11-22 (small to mid sized foil), 28/29 (50% of pull tabs), and 46/47 (pennies/dimes). If I were to dig those numbers, then 99.9% of what I dig up, would be aluminum trash, pennies/dimes, and large aluminum bottle caps. I understand that some like to dig clad coins, but I do not. Pretty much my only hunting goal is jewelry.

Anyway, I only hunted for two hours and got 5 rings. 3 are junkers, 1 is silver, and I don’t know what that other one is. The picture doesn’t do it justice, but the outer part is silver colored, and the band going through the middle of it is gold colored. The only markings on the ring are two initials along with a date. It seems to be a large wedding ring, and I’ll probably try to find the owner of it.

This was only 1 experiment so take it as you will. What I can say though, is that by notching the way I did, the finds were much better than “digging it all” for jewelry in park like sites. By digging it all, I likely wouldn’t have found any rings in that time frame. The notching turned my park hunting from trash digging work, to an enjoyable hunt.

stuff.jpg
 
Last edited:
When I'm in a hurry or have limited time I do basically the same thing. What did your rings vdi come in at?

Mark in Michigan
 
When I'm in a hurry or have limited time I do basically the same thing. What did your rings vdi come in at?

Mark in Michigan
Hi Mark.

I just air tested them:

Wedding ring: 23
Silver ring: 44
"Zipper" ring: 39
2 small rings: 27
 
Nice digs and experiment. I'm a big fan of using notch to my advantage when hunting spots that are loaded with junk targets. I'm willing to concede a few challenged targets and exclude certain target ranges that are mostly undesirable in exchange for digging less BS, covering more ground and having a higher treasure to trash ratio at the end of the day. My back and knees are shot, so I try to put the odds in my favor and avoid wearing myself out chasing junk. Now if I'm hunting a site that's already been beat to death and just trying to squeak out one or two more finds, then sure, I'll run way less notch and dig more iffy signals.
 
I'm looking for all the ways to increase the odds of finding jewelry when hunting in park like sites.

I'm thinking that due to the ring shape of rings lol, that most of them are shallow due to being caught up in the grass roots. If so, I might be able to help avoid targets I don't want, by only digging the shallower targets.
 
Nice digs and experiment. I'm a big fan of using notch to my advantage when hunting spots that are loaded with junk targets. I'm willing to concede a few challenged targets and exclude certain target ranges that are mostly undesirable in exchange for digging less BS, covering more ground and having a higher treasure to trash ratio at the end of the day. My back and knees are shot, so I try to put the odds in my favor and avoid wearing myself out chasing junk. Now if I'm hunting a site that's already been beat to death and just trying to squeak out one or two more finds, then sure, I'll run way less notch and dig more iffy signals.
Agreed on all counts...including the knees and back part! :)

Some say "If you don't dig up all the foil and tabs in park like sites, you'll miss gold rings". While that is technically true, I think it's false when it comes to what's in the pouch at the end of the day. For example, I know that if I wasn't notching, that picture would have a hell of a lot more foil and tabs, and maybe 1 ring.
 
Good post. Nice finds.
I talk a lot I about select digging with certain models detectors.
The smaller gold rings (ladies). Some of those can be gotten without digging the foil, nickels, beavers, square tabs.
Freq used though could make this more productive depending.
Cheers.
 
Thanks TNS.

I typically use a high weighted SMF mode. What did you have in mind regarding frequency(s)?
 
Thanks TNS.

I typically use a high weighted SMF mode. What did you have in mind regarding frequency(s)?

Alright. Remember I sold my Legend. I do realize it has had updates since.
Highest weighted freq might come up short. Depending.
I recommend you watch video I did 5 days ago showing Manticore with smaller M8 coil- small gold ring with foil masker. I show highest freq/freq weighted ATLC and compared to All Terrain general program (program either runs slightly lower freq or is weighted lower somewhat. Equal notch. Was used. Different result gotten.
Small gold ring that reads about 50 on Deus 2, 17 on manticore. Using this ring conductivity as a guide may be good way to set up multi freq detector to snag the smaller gold rings yet dodge the foil. Be able to detect some smaller gold rings father beneath plane of smaller foil, etc that reads lower conductive.
So could you use a lower reading smaller gold ring and find out how your Legend needs to be run to accomplishment what I did using All Terrain General on Manticore?
Remember coil size can be a driver.
You likely have small coil for your Legend.

Cheers.
 
I'm looking for all the ways to increase the odds of finding jewelry when hunting in park like sites.

I'm thinking that due to the ring shape of rings lol, that most of them are shallow due to being caught up in the grass roots. If so, I might be able to help avoid targets I don't want, by only digging the shallower targets.
I hunt mainly jewelry. I have for quite some time now. I see people all the time post that to find rings, you've got to dig that trash. I have been saying for a long time, but, you can increase the odds of finding rings and not dig all the trash. Notching out the known stuff, like tabs, is simple enough, but for me, I notch, often just in my head, each site. If you find 3-4 pieces of aluminum at VDI 18-20, then don't dig those, but a 17 is worth a looksee. It isn't about knowing what VDIs you know what they most likely are, but the ones that you don't see often.

Size. Once I have a VDI of interest, I switch to pinpoint a good 6" above the ground and go over the target to get the size and shape. if It is pinpointed as small and the same from all sides, and an out-of-the-ordinary VDI, it is worth a dig.

And this is where not all detectors are good for. XP Deus & ML Equinox 800. Very good at pinpoint sizing and shape.
 
TNS,

Are you referring to using a low weighted SMF mode to better unmask in aluminum trash? If so, I'm aware of that, and may give it a go. One issue I do have with using that method, is that some aluminum trash will ID much higher than normal.
 
It isn't about knowing what VDIs you know what they most likely are, but the ones that you don't see often.
If I'm reading that right CP, then that is what I do. For example, some very small gold rings and chains can and do ID at 1 number above ferrous (11 on the Legend). However, I've dug hundreds of 11's and only ever got 1 chain...and it was a junker. My parks are blanketed with small foil that ID's at 11. It would be crazy for me to continue digging those. My time would be much better spent, by ignoring 11's and digging numbers which are far more likely to be a ring.
 
TNS,

Are you referring to using a low weighted SMF mode to better unmask in aluminum trash? If so, I'm aware of that, and may give it a go. One issue I do have with using that method, is that some aluminum trash will ID much higher than normal.

Probably more associate with foil. The highest weighted (or used highest freq) program may not be best. Remember you are not looking for max depth anyways. More unmasking. Get those smaller rings (low conductive) separated from the foil in 3 d status.
Example. Like I stated above. Manticore with M8 coil, All Terrain Low conductors not best Choice for modern fresh polluted sites depending on ID and using or not using notch vs All terrain General. Now if we up the ring size some (and it was little higher conductor ATLC would suffice on Manticore.
There is a chance one of your programs on Legend is highest weighted than the rest. The next in line program with just.a tad of reduced freq would be good place to experiment.
Btw. These smaller rings a single freq detector trying to get to without digging lot of smaller foil could be tough. Iron could come into play too. And cause ID skewing moreso with single freq ops.
The main reason I did the video I did. Is beside lot of people associate good rings with higher freq on a detector. So new Manticore user may thing oh boy. Just go to ATLC and all their problems are solved. This is not true unfortunately.
Now me referring to Manticore here is not designed to pollute or sidetrack your thread. If I had a Legend right now I would relook at it with latest version on software and would be mentioning it in lieu of Manticore.

Try this.
Place clad dime squarely or very close on top of Nickel. You can ground them.
Place all your programs at speed 5.
See which program reads highest ID. That will tell you the one using highest freq or freq weighting. Check the rest. The one that reads second highest ID on the dime on top of nickel. That may be best choice.
Now it is possible the program with highest reading will do fine. IDK.
You can compare the program that gave highest reading and the one giving second highest reading. Experiment with smaller lower reading good ring. Using some smaller foil elevated. Using your small coil.
You can compare using both programs with notch of foil range) and no notch. I would be more interested though in how using notch (does one program give advantage?

Cheers.
 
Last edited:
I know what you mean TNS. I could use the Legend's M3 mode for that unmasking, or even 4 KHz. In fact, I have used M3 to get amazing unmasking performance of high conductors from foil and the like. However, there are downsides to using that method. I'm not yet convinced that the benefit of that method, outweigh the downsides of that method.

With that said, I do have a lot more experimentation to do with that notching. I'll keep the notching the way it is, but will give M3 a go.
 
I know what you mean TNS. I could use the Legend's M3 mode for that unmasking, or even 4 KHz. In fact, I have used M3 to get amazing unmasking performance of high conductors from foil and the like. However, there are downsides to using that method. I'm not yet convinced that the benefit of that method, outweigh the downsides of that method.

With that said, I do have a lot more experimentation to do with that notching. I'll keep the notching the way it is, but will give M3 a go.

Yep M3 might be good way.
Or even beach wet.
Deeper masked gold rings using even smaller coil. Masked by foil likely reachable.
Applying your notch for foil.
Good luck.
 
Cherry Picker > I switch to pinpoint a good 6" above the ground and go over the target to get the size and shape.

I do that too; except I don’t use pinpoint. I swing back and forth really quick to get the edge. If it’s not tight and round, I walk.
 
Cherry Picker > I switch to pinpoint a good 6" above the ground and go over the target to get the size and shape.

I do that too; except I don’t use pinpoint. I swing back and forth really quick to get the edge. If it’s not tight and round, I walk.
Probably a good approach for the type of hunting you do. I hunt mostly tot lots now, and when I do hunt in the dirt I don't go deep. I use the wiggle-back method to pinpoint my targets and have a good idea of how deep. I use my Lesche, or screwdriver and open the hole to the target. My Carrot seems to find it right away.

Great job Diga. I pretty much do the same but I often adjust my notches to fit the site. If I hit several tabs with a VDI around 84, then I notch it out. Your approach is one of the reasons I find so much jewelry compared to just in trashy parks.
 
Great job Diga. I pretty much do the same but I often adjust my notches to fit the site. If I hit several tabs with a VDI around 84, then I notch it out. Your approach is one of the reasons I find so much jewelry compared to just in trashy parks.
Thanks CP.

I just got back from another 2 hour hunt in the same park with the same notch settings. I got about the same amount of trash and clad, but no gold again. I did however get a silver ring, a neat looking, red colored heart pendant, a "star" pendant, and a cool 1908 coat of arms pendant / badge for my city. In a nutshell, I'm finding way more cool stuff with the notching, compared to digging it all in the trashy parks...and I'm doing it in a fraction of the time and effort, with far less trash digging too!

I'm probably going back out again tonight at another park. This time, I'm going to notch even more. Meaning, I'm going to notch out high conductor clad, because I'm digging a lot of it, and I don't want it. The large screw on aluminum caps fall into that ID range as well. Granted, large honking gold rings can ID in that range, but not nearly enough to justify wasting all the time and effort digging all that clad and aluminum screw caps.

TNS,

Did you ever experiment with a very low SMF or low SF, with anything other than the foil / high conductor unmasking experiment? For example, have you tested if the low SMF and low SF, works just as well for unmasking lower conductors (like gold rings) from foil? Or gold rings from tabs?
 
Thanks CP.

I just got back from another 2 hour hunt in the same park with the same notch settings. I got about the same amount of trash and clad, but no gold again. I did however get a silver ring, a neat looking, red colored heart pendant, a "star" pendant, and a cool 1908 coat of arms pendant / badge for my city. In a nutshell, I'm finding way more cool stuff with the notching, compared to digging it all in the trashy parks...and I'm doing it in a fraction of the time and effort, with far less trash digging too!

I'm probably going back out again tonight at another park. This time, I'm going to notch even more. Meaning, I'm going to notch out high conductor clad, because I'm digging a lot of it, and I don't want it. The large screw on aluminum caps fall into that ID range as well. Granted, large honking gold rings can ID in that range, but not nearly enough to justify wasting all the time and effort digging all that clad and aluminum screw caps.

TNS,

Did you ever experiment with a very low SMF or low SF, with anything other than the foil / high conductor unmasking experiment? For example, have you tested if the low SMF and low SF, works just as well for unmasking lower conductors (like gold rings) from foil? Or gold rings from tabs?
I did a little experimenting. I usually get say a few 84-86 VDIs that will be a pull tab. I notch it. Same with the 72-74, generally a pull tab. Anything else I recover. Very seldom do I dig pull tabs even in very trashy parks. Canslaw generally will have a wider VDI spread when hit from different directions. Same with foil, So I spot them by the VDI inconsistency.

Never really tried a lower set of frequencies (SMF). On my Deus I don't use normalization so the VDI changes by the frequency, and then my notching is off. I could create a new program using lower SMF and set my nothing to fit.

Now the NOX 800 was easy to do live site notching. The interface I feel is so user-friendly compared to my Deus. But with the 16 custom spots to save programs I just set them up a new program if I need it.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom