From centech, to... this:

Thats the drawback to slaving the motor from the buzzer. The buzzer just needs a voltage to turn it on, like a doorbell.

My suggestion is to not wear heavy gloves or install a switch to kill the speaker or motor... just break one side of the motor leads (I'd do + but that's just me). That way you could have motor if not wearing heavy gloves and just tone when you are.

Otherwise remove buzzer completely and only have the motor. I'd try it with the resistor and see if it makes a difference. It worked fine for me, but I haven't had to wear anything but my digging gloves yet... no winter here in VA Beach yet.
 
Good suggestions. Maybe a A/B switch. Heavy gloves are presently a necessity here in Pittsburgh. So I'd be willing to share some snow if you miss it. LOL. Actually we have had unusually good winter weather until the last week.
 
Was born and raised in Greensburg... the Navy doesn't sail from there so it's VA Beach for now...

This has been the craziest winter I've ever had here... 50's on average... good year to really get into detecting though!
 
Cen Tech

If the internal sensitivity pot is the blue thing with the brass straight head screw? That is what I broke on mine messing with the screw! Snapped it right off the board. I had read about the bad push button switch and saw the vibrator mod before I even got mine so I Bought a new switch (to big) and a vibrator motor to do those mods when the switch went bad. Mine didn't work to bad depth wise, I got about an inch on a penny in the hole (not an air test). Anyway I bought a Pro Pointer and I am impressed!!! If anyone thinks they might have use for mine for parts or whatever, PM me your address and I will send it to you as cheap as I can and will put the receipt in with it and you can send me the shipping cost after you get it...... Good Luck and Happy Hunting.....:biker::digginahole::biker:
 
If the internal sensitivity pot is the blue thing with the brass straight head screw? That is what I broke on mine messing with the screw! Snapped it right off the board. I had read about the bad push button switch and saw the vibrator mod before I even got mine so I Bought a new switch (to big) and a vibrator motor to do those mods when the switch went bad. Mine didn't work to bad depth wise, I got about an inch on a penny in the hole (not an air test). Anyway I bought a Pro Pointer and I am impressed!!! If anyone thinks they might have use for mine for parts or whatever, PM me your address and I will send it to you as cheap as I can and will put the receipt in with it and you can send me the shipping cost after you get it...... Good Luck and Happy Hunting.....:biker::digginahole::biker:

pm sent..thx
 
by the way i used a 33 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor :cool:

I don't think this is doing much... The positive wire that normally goes to the buzzer is actually fed through R13 on the board, which is already 1.5k okms. Adding 33 to 1500 seems unlikely to make much difference. :)

You're probably just as well off without it.
 
I would pay to have someone do it for me cause i have none of those tools. also have a ps3 that needs fixing to but dont know how to do that either
 
I have modded mine with a vibrating motor from an old tracfone of mine and used a toggle switch to select between the buzzer and vibrating motor. I also added a kids ring, that I found, to the coil to increase the depth. I also cut a finger out of a disposable glove. I opened the case and slipped it over the push button to keep dirt out of the push button. I used a nitrile it's much tougher than a vinyl glove. I also put the centech in a ziplock bag and tape it up to remove excess that help keep it cleaner
 

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If you are local I'll help you out. I have all the tools in triplicate (it's my job and hobby).

As for the PS3... trade it in. The parts out there are not good quality and you'll end up replacing them again (or paying someone to do it). I have fixed them in the past (and 360's too) but the reliability of the parts out there now makes it unreliable. I hate to do it, but I tell my friends to go to Gamestop or somewhere like it and trade it in for a NEW one. The used/refurbished ones (unless Sony refurb) are done by Gamestop with the same crappy parts.

I may be able to help you out if you're not local but we'll have to discuss via PM.

HH
 
Could some one post an image with the internal pot located so us non-tech folks could see where it is and explain how to adjust it to increase the sensitivity? That would be a BIG help as the CenTec is my backup! Maybe do that in a separate Thread in here and call it Cen-Tec sensitivity adjustment change or sumpin like that so we can find it?????

Thanks!
 
Could some one post an image with the internal pot located so us non-tech folks could see where it is and explain how to adjust it to increase the sensitivity? That would be a BIG help as the CenTec is my backup! Maybe do that in a separate Thread in here and call it Cen-Tec sensitivity adjustment change or sumpin like that so we can find it?????

Thanks!

One of the Centech threads has the picture. It's the only small blue box part on the board, with a tiny screw on the top. Be very gentle with it, pay close attention to which direction you turn it, and stop when you first feel some resistance. I broke mine, replaced it with a 2k ohm, slightly different style. Think it measured 1.8k, that was the closest I had on hand.
 
my screwdriver is pointing to it...the blue thing with the screw on the top....
 

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only give it about a 1/4 turn, and also make sure your external knob isn't turned too far up or it'll be too sensitive and won't stop beeping. it takes a little messing with but its easy to do
 
Where are the vibrating motors in those phones? My radio shack doesn't carry the vibrating motors and I ended up taking one out of those vibrating shavers. I just cut the wires to the speaker and soldered it direct because I never could hear it anyway with my head phones on. I hot glued it in place and it seems to work. When I get past two wires I'm lost.
 
If you have a old cell phone to dissect, the motor is kind of obvious. About 1/2" lg. It has a lopsided counterweight on it's shaft. The shaver motor worked, but probably sucks up electricity like crazy. Hot glue the cell phone motor to the case where you can without interference and solder it in the buzzer circuit.
 
I've had the motors with the counterweight on the shaft and the "newer" ones that have no external parts, just 2 wires coming out, and look like a watch battery. I've scavenged more of those than the "older" ones with the counterweight...
 
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