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  #41  
Old 08-08-2018, 05:58 PM
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georgeinsc georgeinsc is offline
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I took a cell phone charger. Cut off the phone end and installed two small alligator clips. Put a steel item in one of the clips. I use water with some salt added. Place the item to be cleaned in the other clip. In a short period of time you should see some bubbles coming from one of the items. If they are coming from the item to be cleaned you have it correct. If not reverse the items. Do not let the two items touch each other. Use a glass or plastic item for your solution.

I have cleaned a lot of salt water crusty silver jewelry using that method.
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  #42  
Old 08-08-2018, 06:26 PM
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RBachman RBachman is offline
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Have you tried a jewelry plating electrocleaner? I use this stuff in making jewelry and it works well.

The aluminum/baking soda method also works IF you have good contact to the aluminum, hot enough water (like HOT HOT) and use distilled or RO water. I like using an aluminum plate instead of foil and find it works better...for me, anyway. Often the foil just doesn't get the results you want. Once it stops cleaning, mix up some more and do it again if needed. No need to buy a special plate, find a chunk of Aluminum and have fun.

Here's a link to the electrocleaner I use. I forget the rectifier settings for it, but can look it up later if interested.

https://www.riogrande.com/product/mi...ion-mix/335156

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  #43  
Old 08-15-2018, 12:08 PM
waltr waltr is offline
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Ok thread here but there are many factors to consider.

As said, it is the Current that controls the electrolysis process. Current draw is then dependent of the electrolyte and the area to the electrodes (object).

Also, the amount of current drawn should be adjusted for the object being treated. A large steel axe head can be run with many Amperes whereas a silver coin should be no more than a 100mA so one has more control over the process.

Current limiting can be done as discussed and I feel it is important to be able to monitor the current draw. A Voltmeter across a low value resistor is a good and easy method to measure the current.

Then there is the compound used as the electrolyte and its possible effects on the metal in the object being cleaned. Table salt, Sodium Chloride, is not good for any copper base alloys since it will cause the formation of copper chloride which is then very hard to remove and is known as Bronze Disease which eats away the object for years after.

Acids can also cause issues.

Even if no toxic gases are given off there is still the break down of water into hydrogen and oxygen, which when combined is an explosive combination (the Shuttle main engines run on hydrogen and oxygen).
Therefore, ALWAYS provide good ventilation.

Understanding the basic chemistry of the corrosion and the removal/reversing is important if one wishes for the best results.
An excellent paper on the subject is linked in this thread.
https://metaldetectingforum.com/showthread.php?t=263378
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  #44  
Old 08-19-2018, 08:26 PM
jerrycoastalnc jerrycoastalnc is offline
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Default Using stainless steel in Electroloysis !

Here a link you may want to checkout, SS can release cancer causing agent

http://antique-engines.com/stainless...electrodes.htm
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  #45  
Old 11-03-2018, 05:11 AM
tomme boy tomme boy is offline
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The easiest way to clean coins is to use 2 AA batteries and a light bulb. Set the coins in the washing soda solution and set up the DC circuit so that when the light is in line on the (-) side. The light will come on when done cleaning or you can stop sooner.

Not sure why no one said this sooner but you are not supposed to use SS with washing soda. Whatever gas it gives off can kill you. I was told it is the same as what Germany used in WWI.

I have done 30+ guns and hundreds of coins. Just keep and eye on them and you will not get in trouble or ruin anything. I burnt my fair share of chargers up cleaning axe heads and tools. Now I just use batteries or a small 250mA power supply I built back in college.
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