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  #41  
Old 08-08-2018, 04:58 PM
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georgeinsc georgeinsc is offline
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I took a cell phone charger. Cut off the phone end and installed two small alligator clips. Put a steel item in one of the clips. I use water with some salt added. Place the item to be cleaned in the other clip. In a short period of time you should see some bubbles coming from one of the items. If they are coming from the item to be cleaned you have it correct. If not reverse the items. Do not let the two items touch each other. Use a glass or plastic item for your solution.

I have cleaned a lot of salt water crusty silver jewelry using that method.
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  #42  
Old 08-08-2018, 05:26 PM
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Have you tried a jewelry plating electrocleaner? I use this stuff in making jewelry and it works well.

The aluminum/baking soda method also works IF you have good contact to the aluminum, hot enough water (like HOT HOT) and use distilled or RO water. I like using an aluminum plate instead of foil and find it works better...for me, anyway. Often the foil just doesn't get the results you want. Once it stops cleaning, mix up some more and do it again if needed. No need to buy a special plate, find a chunk of Aluminum and have fun.

Here's a link to the electrocleaner I use. I forget the rectifier settings for it, but can look it up later if interested.

https://www.riogrande.com/product/mi...ion-mix/335156

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  #43  
Old 08-15-2018, 11:08 AM
waltr waltr is offline
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Ok thread here but there are many factors to consider.

As said, it is the Current that controls the electrolysis process. Current draw is then dependent of the electrolyte and the area to the electrodes (object).

Also, the amount of current drawn should be adjusted for the object being treated. A large steel axe head can be run with many Amperes whereas a silver coin should be no more than a 100mA so one has more control over the process.

Current limiting can be done as discussed and I feel it is important to be able to monitor the current draw. A Voltmeter across a low value resistor is a good and easy method to measure the current.

Then there is the compound used as the electrolyte and its possible effects on the metal in the object being cleaned. Table salt, Sodium Chloride, is not good for any copper base alloys since it will cause the formation of copper chloride which is then very hard to remove and is known as Bronze Disease which eats away the object for years after.

Acids can also cause issues.

Even if no toxic gases are given off there is still the break down of water into hydrogen and oxygen, which when combined is an explosive combination (the Shuttle main engines run on hydrogen and oxygen).
Therefore, ALWAYS provide good ventilation.

Understanding the basic chemistry of the corrosion and the removal/reversing is important if one wishes for the best results.
An excellent paper on the subject is linked in this thread.
https://metaldetectingforum.com/showthread.php?t=263378
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  #44  
Old 08-19-2018, 07:26 PM
jerrycoastalnc jerrycoastalnc is offline
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Default Using stainless steel in Electroloysis !

Here a link you may want to checkout, SS can release cancer causing agent

http://antique-engines.com/stainless...electrodes.htm
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  #45  
Old 11-03-2018, 04:11 AM
tomme boy tomme boy is offline
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The easiest way to clean coins is to use 2 AA batteries and a light bulb. Set the coins in the washing soda solution and set up the DC circuit so that when the light is in line on the (-) side. The light will come on when done cleaning or you can stop sooner.

Not sure why no one said this sooner but you are not supposed to use SS with washing soda. Whatever gas it gives off can kill you. I was told it is the same as what Germany used in WWI.

I have done 30+ guns and hundreds of coins. Just keep and eye on them and you will not get in trouble or ruin anything. I burnt my fair share of chargers up cleaning axe heads and tools. Now I just use batteries or a small 250mA power supply I built back in college.
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  #46  
Old 12-24-2018, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by fightingfenian View post
this is probably a dumb question, but just wondering, does the electrosis work on only iron and steel? or can it be used on all items and metals/alloys? im quite new to MDing, so i think electrosis may be my new experiment on the things ive found so far. btw, is there any way to find out the age of items ive found?
it will work on ferrous or non ferrous metals ,gold,silver ,copper etc,etc,

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  #47  
Old 12-24-2018, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by tomme boy View post
The easiest way to clean coins is to use 2 AA batteries and a light bulb. Set the coins in the washing soda solution and set up the DC circuit so that when the light is in line on the (-) side. The light will come on when done cleaning or you can stop sooner.

Not sure why no one said this sooner but you are not supposed to use SS with washing soda. Whatever gas it gives off can kill you. I was told it is the same as what Germany used in WWI.

I have done 30+ guns and hundreds of coins. Just keep and eye on them and you will not get in trouble or ruin anything. I burnt my fair share of chargers up cleaning axe heads and tools. Now I just use batteries or a small 250mA power supply I built back in college.
When you put a flame to R12 refrigerant it make mustard gas(ww 1) is what we were taught in automotive school.

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  #48  
Old 03-07-2019, 08:38 PM
joe dert joe dert is offline
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Originally Posted by Forino View post
I found a few 9v charges so I was using them for cleaning some old spoons and they work well but they keep burning out on me. Do I no have enough voltage for something that large? I also need to leave them on for a while so I thought that could be a problem too. Would appreciate the input. Thanks!
I believe your solution has too much resistance..thus the burned out charger..9v is fine but you should be using distilled water and sodium carbonate..not sodium bicarbonate.. I'm not saying other solutions won't work, but sodium carbonate and water make a true electrolyte..true electrical conductivity..use one teaspoon per 5 cups of water for a mild solution..up to 2 teaspoons maximum...dissolved completely..

Last edited by joe dert; 03-07-2019 at 09:20 PM.
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  #49  
Old 03-10-2019, 10:50 PM
joe dert joe dert is offline
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Resistance.. I told you all..look it up for God's sake..flipping too much resistance in your solution
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  #50  
Old 03-11-2019, 05:08 AM
GTS225 GTS225 is offline
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Ummmm, Joe? You're thinking backwards. The burning out of the supply(s) is due to too much current being demanded by the process. What that suggests is that there is not enough resistance, (to current flow), to make the power supply last.
(Low resistance = high current flow, high resistance = low current flow.)

What is really needed here is a current meter. Hook up the circuit, with the meter installed, then start adding your washing soda until you get a current flow indication that is compatible with the supply's indicated rating. If that requirement can't be met, then you need a bigger power supply.
I suggest an automotive battery charger, with a battery for your supply. This way, the current meter is already in the circuit, in the form of the charger's meter. The battery, (even if it's dead lawn tractor battery), will act as a filter/buffer for the overall circuit.

Roger
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  #51  
Old 03-11-2019, 08:58 PM
joe dert joe dert is offline
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Originally Posted by GTS225 View post
Ummmm, Joe? You're thinking backwards. The burning out of the supply(s) is due to too much current being demanded by the process. What that suggests is that there is not enough resistance, (to current flow), to make the power supply last.
(Low resistance = high current flow, high resistance = low current flow.)

What is really needed here is a current meter. Hook up the circuit, with the meter installed, then start adding your washing soda until you get a current flow indication that is compatible with the supply's indicated rating. If that requirement can't be met, then you need a bigger power supply.
I suggest an automotive battery charger, with a battery for your supply. This way, the current meter is already in the circuit, in the form of the charger's meter. The battery, (even if it's dead lawn tractor battery), will act as a filter/buffer for the overall circuit.

Roger
Umm..yeah ...a highly conductive solution will Max out your charger.. I gotta stop posting when I'm half asleep.. I stand corrected.. I wiped my butt before I crapped..
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