Big Boys Hobbies

Legend frequencies

djramey1975

djramey1975

Full Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
124
Location
Longview, TX
I just got the legend a couple weeks ago & got no more than 10hrs on it so far. I was wondering if someone can help me understand the frequencies & when it's best to use multi 1, 2, 3 or switch over to single.
 
After experiencing how much more accurate the ID is with SMF (especially at depth), I wouldn't want to use SF unless I somehow had to.


M1's primary frequency is weighted mid level. That means it's a compromise mode for conductivity and size. It's a general purpose mode.

M2's primary frequency is weighted high. That means it's more sensitive to lower conductors and smaller targets than M1. M2 is also ideal for unmasking good targets in ferrous trash.

M3's primary frequency is weighted low. That means it's more sensitive to higher conductors, and less sensitive to small targets. M3 is the deepest mode for silver, and is also more ideal than M1 or M2 for unmasking high conductors in nonferrous trash.
 
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Page 9 discusses frequency and the differences between them. Until you read your manual you may miss a few targets. The Legend is very much a turn on and swing detector. Sorry to sound like a teacher but I did better once I dug into the manual. I usually run Park M3. Your mileage may vary.

Mark in Michigan
 
markinmichigan said:
Page 9 discusses frequency and the differences between them. Until you read your manual you may miss a few targets. The Legend is very much a turn on and swing detector. Sorry to sound like a teacher but I did better once I dug into the manual. I usually run Park M3. Your mileage may vary.

Mark in Michigan
Click to expand...
I've always been more of a hands on type & ask questions when needed.... Never have been able to retain much by reading alone
 
Digalicious said:
After experiencing how much more accurate the ID is with SMF (especially at depth), I wouldn't want to use SF unless I somehow had to.


M1's primary frequency is weighted mid level. That means it's a compromise mode for conductivity and size. It's a general purpose mode.

M2's primary frequency is weighted high. That means it's more sensitive to lower conductors and smaller targets than M1. M2 is also ideal for unmasking good targets in ferrous trash.

M3's primary frequency is weighted low. That means it's more sensitive to higher conductors, and less sensitive to small targets. M3 is the deepest mode for silver, and is also more ideal than M1 or M2 for unmasking high conductors in nonferrous trash.
Click to expand...
Oh wow! Awesome info! Thank you very much! I've been putting off the search to look for exactly the above explanation!
 
Digalicious said:
After experiencing how much more accurate the ID is with SMF (especially at depth), I wouldn't want to use SF unless I somehow had to.


M1's primary frequency is weighted mid level. That means it's a compromise mode for conductivity and size. It's a general purpose mode.

M2's primary frequency is weighted high. That means it's more sensitive to lower conductors and smaller targets than M1. M2 is also ideal for unmasking good targets in ferrous trash.

M3's primary frequency is weighted low. That means it's more sensitive to higher conductors, and less sensitive to small targets. M3 is the deepest mode for silver, and is also more ideal than M1 or M2 for unmasking high conductors in nonferrous trash.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the break down.... So M1= all purpose .... M2 = good for jewelry .... M3 = good for coin shooting.... Definitely gonna help me in the future when out swinging
 
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markinmichigan said:
Page 9 discusses frequency and the differences between them. Until you read your manual you may miss a few targets. The Legend is very much a turn on and swing detector. Sorry to sound like a teacher but I did better once I dug into the manual. I usually run Park M3. Your mileage may vary.

Mark in Michigan
Click to expand...
I've read the manual and found a LOT of the explanations to be lacking detail or depth, especially if you are not deeply familiar with the technical aspects of how the different settings and options relate to different types and targets when hunting...

I was inverting the IF settings for 3 months and never realized how many targets I was missing because I THOUGHT I understood how the settings worked. The manual is a good place to get basic info, but sometimes it's nowhere close to detailed enough.
 
Where I live the Legend is a grab and go detector. Very little to no iron in the ground, no salt water to deal with, Park M3 is my go to in the parks or fields. In tot lots, I like gold mode because there is rarely a deep target and nothing is notched/discriminated out. Seems very sensitive to all metal.

Mark in Michigan
 
M1 is more like "A jack of all trades, master of none". M2 and M3 are more specialized.

On a side note:

I set my IF so low that I deliberately get the occasional iron false. That ensures that I'm getting maximum iron unmasking.

I also used to use a high recovery speed in trashy sites, but I stopped doing that, and never go over the default of 5 now. Reason being, the fundamental speed of the SMF detectors since the Nox, is already very fast, even on the lowest recovery speed setting. In addition, DD coils mainly detect in a narrow strip from the heal to the toe of the coil, so they naturally already have excellent separation ability. Now since there is about 4" depth loss between the default recovery speed of 5 to the maximum of 10, I don't go over 5 because I'd rather not lose that much depth, for a very small gain in separation ability.

Side note: In my recovery speed experiments, I didn't notice any depth or separation difference between 1 and 5 on the recovery speed. All the difference was between 5 and 10.
 
Digalicious said:
M1 is more like "A jack of all trades, master of none". M2 and M3 are more specialized.

On a side note:

I set my IF so low that I deliberately get the occasional iron false. That ensures that I'm getting maximum iron unmasking.

I also used to use a high recovery speed in trashy sites, but I stopped doing that, and never go over the default of 5 now. Reason being, the fundamental speed of the SMF detectors since the Nox, is already very fast, even on the lowest recovery speed setting. In addition, DD coils mainly detect in a narrow strip from the heal to the toe of the coil, so they naturally already have excellent separation ability. Now since there is about 4" depth loss between the default recovery speed of 5 to the maximum of 10, I don't go over 5 because I'd rather not lose that much depth, for a very small gain in separation ability.

Side note: In my recovery speed experiments, I didn't notice any depth or separation difference between 1 and 5 on the recovery speed. All the difference was between 5 and 10.
Click to expand...
When you say IF low do you mean that in the recovery speed sub-menu on the IF section you use a low number or a high number?

I'm thinking maybe it was understanding of tone volumes that changed and I had a decent understanding of IF all along...
Will a low number in the IF setting filter out more iron or find more iron?

When on the beach will low tone gold have any ferrocheck bars, or will it have an iron number but not trigger the ferrocheck?
Unfortunately I don't have extra gold lying around to play with and check myself :)
 
TheFrood said:
When you say IF low do you mean that in the recovery speed sub-menu on the IF section you use a low number or a high number?
Click to expand...
Yes, that's the Iron Filter I'm talking about, and I use a low number.

TheFrood said:
Will a low number in the IF setting filter out more iron or find more iron?
Click to expand...

The lower the number, the more the iron signal is filtered out of the whole signal. That means there is a much better chance at unmasking good stuff from the iron, but it can also produce iron falsing, in which something like a nail, will give a nonferrous tone and ID. For example, a nail contains a ferrous signal, but it also has a small nonferrous signal. That means if the IF is set really low, iron falsing may occur, because most or all of the ferrous signal is filtered out, which allows the small nonferrous signal of the nail to come through and produce a nonferrous tone and ID.

TheFrood said:
When on the beach will low tone gold have any ferrocheck bars, or will it have an iron number but not trigger the ferrocheck?
Click to expand...
In theory, nothing should show on the ferrous side of Ferrocheck, unless an iron signal is detected.
 
TheFrood said:
When on the beach will low tone gold have any ferrocheck bars, or will it have an iron number but not trigger the ferrocheck?
Unfortunately I don't have extra gold lying around to play with and check myself :)
Click to expand...

My guess would be, if an item rings up in the ferrous range and the signal is strong enough, it will register on the ferrocheck as iron. I’m not a beach hunter, but in the case of small, deep gold that is getting dragged into the ferrous range because the surrounding soil matrix is overwhelming the target signal, I think it’s most likely that the signal will be too weak to trigger Ferrocheck at all, as is seen with any deeper target. So I’m pretty sure you’ll just see the low TID.

My (limited) experience with the Legend so far is that there isn’t anything magic with Ferrocheck - if there is a strong enough iron component getting reported, ferrocheck shows iron. If an iron target is dense enough to fool the audio and the TID, it also fools the Ferrocheck. Iron nail in the hole with a good target creating a choppy signal? Ferrocheck shows an iron component. I don’t mean this to be negative on the Ferrocheck - I like it as a tool. But to me, it’s just a visual representation of what I’m already hearing in the audio and seeing on the TID. I’ve only got 25 hours on the Legend so far, so my assessment may change given time…
 
AirmetTango said:
If an iron target is dense enough to fool the audio and the TID, it also fools the Ferrocheck.
Click to expand...
I originally thought that myself, but I was incorrect.

For example, I often mention how Ferrocheck is a valuable tool to identify iron falsing. More specifically, when I deliberately produce iron falsing by using the lowest IF, some ferrous objects will give an ID in the 20's with good nonferrous audio, but Ferrocheck shows bars on the ferrous side with no bars on the nonferrous side. I gave up digging those signals, because they always turned out to be iron.

Don't ask me how Ferrocheck is able to identify iron in a way that audio and TID can't, because I don't have a clue:) Incidentally, the D2 has a feature that is very similar to Ferrocheck. I wonder how many D2 hunters use that feature to identify iron falsing?
 
Tones are key for me. I set tone breaks at 6 and tones at 60. I probably have easily 100 + hours on mine but only in park mode still tons of options to explore. So far I've got 6 silver rings and 40+ bucks in clad since Jan 1 2024 digging at the same parks and schools I detected with my ACE 350.
 
Digalicious said:
I originally thought that myself, but I was incorrect.

For example, I often mention how Ferrocheck is a valuable tool to identify iron falsing. More specifically, when I deliberately produce iron falsing by using the lowest IF, some ferrous objects will give an ID in the 20's with good nonferrous audio, but Ferrocheck shows bars on the ferrous side with no bars on the nonferrous side. I gave up digging those signals, because they always turned out to be iron.
Click to expand...
Interesting…I haven’t run across a situation like this yet, but like I said, my time on the Legend is still limited. I also haven’t gone quite that low on my IF yet. So far, I’ve been running with IF set at either 3 or 4 as I learn the machine. That could certainly be making a difference. On the Equinox 800, I would typically run F2 set between 0-2 depending on site conditions/my mood, so I’m sure I’ll ultimately be operating the Legend with similar settings with time,
 
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