I think I drank the Etrac coolaid!

I honestly can't stand hunting using VDI's. Give me the good-'ol smartfind display every day! And I wish the etrac had better depth.

Well tell us how deep you dig say dimes when using your Etrac ???

And tell us your settings when going after the deeper/fringe depth coins??
 
I find

I have a hard time leaving the etrac home, it has the most accurate Id, might be slow because it's processing information because of it's ML Patent :roll: Multi frequency system , and not quick like the single frequency machines, but I like it, new to the V3i also, but I like it, as far as the Dues, the places were I hunt are not really trashed & ironed , so no need for it, relic & side walk strips with the little 5 -I like the F75, but the sef 8x6 with the Etrac will do a fine job their, give the Etrac some time, I am sure you will like it down the road, as much as I and other's do, happy hunting Earl
 
I own the E-trac, F75, and V3i. I can say the E-trac is great for old coins (parks, schools, etc.). The F75 is my main relic detector, it's tough to beat and is superior to the E-trac and V3i for cellar hole hunting, here in PA anyway. The V3i is very versatile, it's been as deep as the E-trac in my experience, and I do enjoy it's display and array of adjustments. I do notice the E-trac locks on better to the super deep coins when compared to the V3i but I believe the 1inch larger coil could be a factor, after all they claim that you should expect to gain an inch in depth for every additional inch of coil.

My main complaints

E-trac - The display is terrible, though it's more of a hunt by tone detector.

V3i- White's needs to update their 25+ year old rod/control box design. It's too bulky, outdated, and the open speaker vent on top of the box is a bad idea.

F75 - The VDI's are jumpy, and it can be "chatty".

Overall I enjoy all 3 of the detectors, and they each excel in certain aspects.
 
Almost every old home I hunt,were talking 1940sand down to late 1800s is full of iron.Not just a little either, plastered.Seems the closer I get to the home or structure it gets worse.Everything from car parts ,roofing nails,I even dug kitchen faucets.Although I think the etrac is a well built great machine,it has its place.Most of these homes I'm in a constant null unless I open up the screen,then I get frustrated from all the noise.That's why I like the At pro,quit until it hits that target not discriminated out.I just ordered a racer pro pack today,we will see how it does.I keep buying fbs units trying sooo hard to like them but I just can't,not in my hunting situations.
 
"""""Maybe thats true as a whole but I have pennies read as dimes quite often......but then again I am not
using a Minelab coil but a detech 13" ultimate so you could be right """"

How do those dug coins read when airtested??? with your aftermarket coil..

Well, I found out today how they read. And it was interesting.

I dug a couple Lincoln pennies today that had the numbers of a dime.
The numbers jumped a little bit.

I air tested them both immediately after digging them and they both air
tested with the same numbers as when they were in the ground.

I'm not sure what that tells me except that, at least the machine is consistent.


Rand
 
Well, I found out today how they read. And it was interesting.

I dug a couple Lincoln pennies today that had the numbers of a dime.
The numbers jumped a little bit.

I air tested them both immediately after digging them and they both air
tested with the same numbers as when they were in the ground.

I'm not sure what that tells me except that, at least the machine is consistent.


Rand

That doesn't surprise me, based on my experiences. I will say though coins can read slightly lower at times vs textbook i.e. a silver dime usually reported for me 12-45, but if the dime was really worn, I might see 12-42/43, or even 12-40 depending on how much they were worn.

So it's not entirely impossible for a really worn silver dime to report as low as a zincoln. So when in an older site beware.
 
And that rluna is why I try and tell people not to give up on the E-Trac/CTX. Yes it can be a challenge depending on what you've been used to but IF you take the time to become one with the machine it will get you places most others can only dream of.
 
It definitely is a challenge,some things are easy,but getting the right setting for the right ground trash can be difficult. I watched a video from earthmansurfer and he has some good info.I'm putting the 6x8 sef on and gonna run that awile,I haven't really tried it much at all,just the pro coil.
And that rluna is why I itry and tell people not to give up on the E-Trac/CTX. Yes it can be a challenge depending on what you've been used to but IF you take the time to become one with the machine it will get you places most others can only dream of.
 
That doesn't surprise me, based on my experiences. I will say though coins can read slightly lower at times vs textbook i.e. a silver dime usually reported for me 12-45, but if the dime was really worn, I might see 12-42/43, or even 12-40 depending on how much they were worn.

So it's not entirely impossible for a really worn silver dime to report as low as a zincoln. So when in an older site beware.

With the Ultimate 13" my silver finds (as a whole) ring at 48. Or jump around a little with 12-48 in those
numbers. I thought that was normal until I read what others were getting silver at.
I dont think I ever got a silver at 45.

I found two rosies at a park on Saturday that were iffy signals except for 12-47, 12-48 numbers
jumping within all the other numbers, and.........they were a little deeper at 7 - 8 inches. I was also
for the first time hunting in manual with sensitivity all the way up at 30. Boy was it noisy, but I was
getting deeper 8" wheaties and those two Rosies :) I just had to slow down even more and listen
and learn.


Rand
 
I consider the Etrac easy to use. Folks coming off of more typical VLF detectors 'sometimes struggle a bit with the different TID layout on screen.

For new users,

Here's the things that can make the Etrac somewhat more difficult to get your arms around:

Falsing on iron
Iron wrap signals--these will usually show up on the 01 ferrous line

User needs to set variability to max and play with their pitch setting via sweeping some silver or clad coins--to hear the high squeal

Recovery fast should be utilized at first I feel--will sorta offset a slightly too fast a sweep speed--btw too fast a sweep speed will cause more falsing

Recovery Deep on and off--I'll be honest, I always left mine in the OFF position. Doing some test I did see some more stable TID #s but tone quality seemed unchanged

Sensitivity- beginners should start off in auto plus 3, as one progresses they will eventually learn---deeper/fringe depth coins- manual sens setting of min level of 26 and higher a must

Using higher manual sensitivity will be where the deeper/fringe depth coins will be heard---but expect more falsing, even with ideal sweep speed--with more time on unit running in such a fashion, operator will start to possess a more tuned ear, to pick the high tone glints out of the falses

A noise cancel is highly recommended before starting to hunt,,and if while hunting one of your buds show up with their detector (any brand)--do another noise cancel while their detector is turned ON

Those good repeatable high tones/high tone glints when swinging over targets--those are the ones, if the tone is not consistent with ideal sweep speed and coil position--a good sign of iron/nail

And what would be considered a consistent high tone???
IMO you swing ideally over the suspect area and get high tone 3 out of 5 times or better--with the sound appearing to come from more of less the exact same spot on the ground===dig
You can set your own parameters, too for this
And watching the screen in quick mask--the cursor position too can help
 
Someone earlier said that the Etrac is more of a hunt by tone detector.
Although the tones are very important for any detector especially for a brand like Tesoro.....
tones for the Etrac are just a part of what the Etrac is all about and why it is such a great machine.

I think it would be more accurate to say:.......
Tesoros are the hunt by tone detectors.
Etrac on the other hand is a hunt by every bit of information it gives you detector.

If I hunted mostly by tones with my Etrac I can honestly say that I would probably have just a few
of the 27 silvers I have. Why? Because I would have had to dig every good tone to get to that silver.
And since I don’t have time on each hunt to do that (i'm not retired yet) most of my hunts would have
been over before I even got to the silver.

Thats the beautiful thing about the Etrac. It accurately tells you so much in so many different ways
that your able to dig a whole lot less while getting a whole lot more :)

For example:
If I have a really good solid tone, I am not going to dig it.....IF..........its 2 or three inches down and reads
as a penny.

Or....I could go just by tone....IN which case I'm digging it and "yippie" I have another penny.

If I get a good tone at 12-44 at 3 inches down, I am not going to dig it. It's another clad dime with the
Ultimater 13"

Someone might say, "what if it's a silver dime?"
If it's a silver dime, it's tone will ring as a silver dime. Especially at that depth.

This is what I mean by the Etrac giving you so much information in so many ways and the more you
learn it the more amazing it gets, so no, the Etrac is not more of a hunt by tone machine...not even close!

Is it hard to learn?? Well for me it hasn't been very hard but everyone is wired differently.
For me it's just been plain fun :) :)


Rand (nightdigger)
 
Sensitivity- beginners should start off in auto plus 3, as one progresses they will eventually learn---deeper/fringe depth coins- manual sens setting of min level of 26 and higher a must

And what would be considered a consistent high tone???
IMO you swing ideally over the suspect area and get high tone 3 out of 5 times or better--with the sound appearing to come from more of less the exact same spot on the ground===dig
You can set your own parameters, too for this
And watching the screen in quick mask--the cursor position too can help

That's great stuff Sharpshooter, can I come down to Tennessee and hunt with you sometime :laughbounce:

If I may also suggest that a newbie start off in auto at +1 or +2. When I first started, even +3 in auto
was too noisy for me. I guess it depends on the area your hunting so let me put my suggestion this
way. Dont be afraid to drop it down to +1 on Auto if that’s what you need, to quiet the machine down.
As you learn, like Sharpshooter said, you will be able to turn it up more and more.

Also, when you get to those deeper/fringe coins when hunting in manual, and like Sharpshooter said,
you find that exact spot on the ground..... When you do find that spot, you will be most likely swinging
your coil only an inch, sometimes a 1/2 inch back and forth over that exact precise spot to be able to get that signal.


Rand(nightdigger)
 
Sure we could hunt together, but deer season not the best time.

Also, I really like post/threads that are more geared say for the beginners/less acquainted folks.

Sure some of the veteran hunters here, they know the ropes-so to speak
And teaching old dogs new tricks---rarely occurs

And I see new members with little to no experience joining this forum regularly.

And to keep threads friendly, with good tips'advice, and with comments on our (more experienced) experiences is all good.

There are many folks out there seeking information--information they can understand

This thread I feel in its entirety is a good one for someone looking or considering Etrac


And besides the Etrac kool-aid tastes real good; especially after you find a couple nice silver coins

There are not many detectors that will go down in the history books for overall performance based on their intended purpose---the Etrac I feel is one that will be in the metal detecting history books
 
Oh and forgot to say, for new Etrac users KEY setting-- set variability setting to max-----will help differentiate the conductive targets via tone easier

Why just for new Etrac users? What do you have yours set at?
I looked and have mine set at 25. The real high tone was a little bit much
for my ears.

Rand
 
Why just for new Etrac users? What do you have yours set at?
I looked and have mine set at 25. The real high tone was a little bit much
for my ears.

Rand

I run mine at 30.

What this does is spread the frequency of the sound--the higher set, the more freq spread between tone on lower vs higher conductors.

And the pitch setting plays into the equation as well.

I guess personal preference can play as well, but a lot of folks don't like to look at the screen until they get this squeal.

And not all headphones are created equal either and the different settings may have a more positive or more negative effect.
 
I consider the Etrac easy to use. Folks coming off of more typical VLF detectors 'sometimes struggle a bit with the different TID layout on screen.

For new users,

Here's the things that can make the Etrac somewhat more difficult to get your arms around:

Falsing on iron
Iron wrap signals--these will usually show up on the 01 ferrous line

User needs to set variability to max and play with their pitch setting via sweeping some silver or clad coins--to hear the high squeal

Recovery fast should be utilized at first I feel--will sorta offset a slightly too fast a sweep speed--btw too fast a sweep speed will cause more falsing

Recovery Deep on and off--I'll be honest, I always left mine in the OFF position. Doing some test I did see some more stable TID #s but tone quality seemed unchanged

Sensitivity- beginners should start off in auto plus 3, as one progresses they will eventually learn---deeper/fringe depth coins- manual sens setting of min level of 26 and higher a must

Using higher manual sensitivity will be where the deeper/fringe depth coins will be heard---but expect more falsing, even with ideal sweep speed--with more time on unit running in such a fashion, operator will start to possess a more tuned ear, to pick the high tone glints out of the falses

A noise cancel is highly recommended before starting to hunt,,and if while hunting one of your buds show up with their detector (any brand)--do another noise cancel while their detector is turned ON

Those good repeatable high tones/high tone glints when swinging over targets--those are the ones, if the tone is not consistent with ideal sweep speed and coil position--a good sign of iron/nail

And what would be considered a consistent high tone???
IMO you swing ideally over the suspect area and get high tone 3 out of 5 times or better--with the sound appearing to come from more of less the exact same spot on the ground===dig
You can set your own parameters, too for this
And watching the screen in quick mask--the cursor position too can help


Every site willl dictate the settings you use on the E-Trac, there are no cookie cutter settings....what works for you in your ground may not work for me in my ground.

A better way to help would be an explanation of what each setting does or doesnt do when used in conjunction with other settings.

The numbers you set yours at are irrelevant to other peoples numbers...

I've learned more from watching videos from guys who know what they're talking about that walk you through each setting etc... numbers are customized to the individuals liking or the location....

Hence why the E-Trac allows you to set up many patterns and settings...because no two sites are exactly alike and no two people run every setting exactly alike...
 
Every site willl dictate the settings you use on the E-Trac, there are no cookie cutter settings....what works for you in your ground may not work for me in my ground.

A better way to help would be an explanation of what each setting does or doesnt do when used in conjunction with other settings.

The numbers you set yours at are irrelevant to other peoples numbers...

I've learned more from watching videos from guys who know what they're talking about that walk you through each setting etc... numbers are customized to the individuals liking or the location....

Hence why the E-Trac allows you to set up many patterns and settings...because no two sites are exactly alike and no two people run every setting exactly alike...

That's a great point ND, and true for all detectors. I do like to have the variability set to max as well, because it does give you the widest of sounds. The more sound pitch the higher the "silver squeal" will be. Also it makes nickels just sound so much sweeter... The E-Trac book by Andy Sabisch really helped me out in understanding the machine. He does a great job explaining the WHY as well as the WHAT of each setting on the machine. But the best teacher is still just good ol' experience and hands-on time playing around with the settings AFTER you first get comfortable with the machine in the stock modes, but that's just my opinion.
 
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