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  #1  
Old 06-28-2013, 12:29 AM
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Mntnclmbr Mntnclmbr is offline
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Thumbs up Any broken plastic? Try this adhesive!

Recently bought a new waffle maker. Mere weeks after the purchase it got dropped and the lifting handle for the top broke off.
I tried a couple adhesives I had on hand with no success.
Went on a hunt for something better.
Found this Locktite adhesive that worked GREAT!!!!
Not only did it reconnect the pieces, I've put force on it and it seems as strong as new.

How is this of any interest to metal detecting?
Well yesterday I was taking my coil protector off my AT Pro and it cracked

Not that a new one would cost much, I just had my heart set on getting back to a great site I found just before taking a months trip out west.
Tried my handy dandy new adhesive. 2 minutes later - Good as New.
Awesome stuff.


P.S. Careful removing AT Pro coil covers, work it off a little at a time all the way around. I was careful since I had heard of others cracking when removed.

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  #2  
Old 06-28-2013, 05:10 AM
redmule redmule is offline
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Thanks for the tip about the loctite.
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  #3  
Old 06-28-2013, 06:48 AM
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Locktite is good stuff, a dab of the red or blue locktite on the threads of a bolt and it won't loosen. I am sure that the stuff for plastic works just as well. P.S. Removing the 9x8 coil covers off a Tesoro coil is very hard to do without cracking them.
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  #4  
Old 07-12-2013, 09:44 AM
songdog songdog is offline
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Originally Posted by SkiWhiz View post
Locktite is good stuff, a dab of the red or blue locktite on the threads of a bolt and it won't loosen. I am sure that the stuff for plastic works just as well. P.S. Removing the 9x8 coil covers off a Tesoro coil is very hard to do without cracking them.
You got that RIGHT about cracking the Tesoro covers! I cracked mine the first time I removed it, but it sure comes off a bit easier now!

As to using the Red or Blue Loctite on screw threads I must warn you all that if it is a screw that you are EVER going to REMOVE do NOT use the RED Loctite!
That red stuff is tenacious and usually is a PERMANENT installation.
I recommend using the BLUE Loctite if you have to, but it too can be pretty tough in getting screws out once in place.
My preference is to use clear fingernail polish.
My wife gets mad at me for using her polish, but it works great and is easier to remove the screw.
I use it on all of my rifle scopes and archery equipment with no problems.
Have a good day!
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  #5  
Old 07-14-2013, 08:51 AM
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I finally got around to buying some of the glue. Now I can't find half of what I was going to glue in the first place. I thought I had both parts together.

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  #6  
Old 07-14-2013, 10:49 AM
petrie502 petrie502 is offline
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Go to lightning bond.com and order the kit! You will have this stuff for years if kept cool, I keep mine in the fridge! I met this guy at a trade show, he took an old car belt that was snapped not cut but snapped jagged edges! He said I'm gonna put a pin head size drop onto one side of this belt and the. Reconnect the two ends! If you can break it ill give you 5 kits and 500$! I took up the challenge me and my buddy pulled and pulled. I put it under both of my feet and stood on it and pulled I found the site of repair and bent it back and forth atleast 200 times as far as I could bend it! Needless to say I bought a kit from hit and with the activated it cures in seconds! It also comes with a resin that you can actually drill and tap, you pour the powdered resin In the crack or hole and the. A couple drops of lightning bond and boom!! It smokes a little and the repair is complete,, it's the best glue I have ever used!! His name is Harry Ness tell home Jeremy Vance the Louisville ky gunsmith told u about it you might get a little bit off!! Here's the link!! If your not impressed he will refund your moola! http://lightningbondglue.com/
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  #7  
Old 08-10-2013, 01:15 PM
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LOCTITE, Huh?!!

I am into the second hour of what OUGHT to have been a 15 minute repair!

That stuff has failed REPEATEDLY. I fillowed the directions perfectly. I applied the activator, waited, applied the glue sparingly, etc.... The first side held nicely. The second side simply fell off! Sand. Clean. Re-apply. Fell off a second time. Got it to sort of stick the third sanding and re-app, so decided to try putting the bolt through. Perfect. I put the coil on the machine and put the bolt through,.. the FIRST side came off! Sand Clean re-apply it is now sitting, clamped, (didn't the label say no clamping required?) and I hold out NO hope that it'll hold THIS time!

Great stuff LocTite Plastics Bonding System! Looks like I don't make the hunt Sunday.

SageGrouse

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  #8  
Old 08-10-2013, 01:29 PM
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Used it to fix a broken tab on my E-Trac coil. Solid as a rock!





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  #9  
Old 08-11-2013, 01:00 AM
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Mine is *just* adhesed... not strong at all, but I'm praying it'll last ONE day. After that, I'm sending the thing back to mInelab for a replacement.

I followed the label instructions, cleaned sanded, prepped, did the activator etc... and NOTHING. It sticks... but it doesn't bond.

Maybe I got a bad batch. If it'll last six to eight hours, I'll be ecstatic.

SageGrouse

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  #10  
Old 08-11-2013, 01:06 AM
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Red face

Originally Posted by SageGrouse View post
Mine is *just* adhesed... not strong at all, but I'm praying it'll last ONE day. After that, I'm sending the thing back to mInelab for a replacement.

I followed the label instructions, cleaned sanded, prepped, did the activator etc... and NOTHING. It sticks... but it doesn't bond.

Maybe I got a bad batch. If it'll last six to eight hours, I'll be ecstatic.

SageGrouse
Sorry sage, didn't mean to steer you wrong
Had the best of intentions. If I was closer I would gladly loan you my machine.
Fingers crossed for your weekend.
GL&GH

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  #11  
Old 08-11-2013, 07:21 AM
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Sage, next time you need to bond anything to just about anything else, try J B Weld.

http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-clearweld/

http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld/

Their regular epoxy is steel reinforced according to their info, but I doubt it would affect anything when using the coil, and their clear version is designed to work on plastic...and it does.

I have been using these products for years, and even on hard use repairs like broken car window cranks I have yet to see any repair fail, ever.

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  #12  
Old 08-11-2013, 11:19 AM
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I use 'Q-Bond'.


(clicky-link^)

Works great on just about anything.

Also I've used JB Weld, and Permatex 30 second, 1 minute, and 5 minute 2-part
epoxies with great success on multiple materials.

I like Q-Bond because you apply the powder in the shape you want and add a few
drops of the activator... it instantly hardens. Great stuff.

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  #13  
Old 08-12-2013, 10:03 AM
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Some of that stuff can only be used on certain plastic. Make sure you read the bottle first.

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  #14  
Old 08-12-2013, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by SageGrouse View post
Mine is *just* adhesed... not strong at all, but I'm praying it'll last ONE day. After that, I'm sending the thing back to mInelab for a replacement.

I followed the label instructions, cleaned sanded, prepped, did the activator etc... and NOTHING. It sticks... but it doesn't bond.

Maybe I got a bad batch. If it'll last six to eight hours, I'll be ecstatic.

SageGrouse
Get some JB WELD for plastic easy to use sets up in just a few minutes Very good stff any hardwear store

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  #15  
Old 08-12-2013, 10:39 AM
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I've used JB Weld for years with great results...

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  #16  
Old 08-22-2013, 03:54 AM
Jeep Wj Jeep Wj is offline
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Originally Posted by Swing-a-ling View post
I use 'Q-Bond'.


(clicky-link^)

Works great on just about anything.

Also I've used JB Weld, and Permatex 30 second, 1 minute, and 5 minute 2-part
epoxies with great success on multiple materials.

I like Q-Bond because you apply the powder in the shape you want and add a few
drops of the activator... it instantly hardens. Great stuff.

JB weld has metal in it at least the grey Epoxy, I have used it with magnets and come back and magnet is covered, not a big deal for geo cache but for a coil or something by the coil may make a difference.
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  #17  
Old 08-31-2013, 09:45 PM
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Thanks for the tip. It's about time someone came up with a decent adhesive for plastics. With Super Glue I usually glue the broken piece to my finger.

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  #18  
Old 08-31-2013, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RaylandRat View post
Thanks for the tip. It's about time someone came up with a decent adhesive for plastics. With Super Glue I usually glue the broken piece to my finger.
Ditto....BTDT...lol

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  #19  
Old 12-17-2013, 07:06 AM
n3umw n3umw is offline
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Default Loctite Super Glue

That Loctite plastic bonder IS super glue. The difference is that it has an accelerator that instantly cures the glue.

Super glues are best on porous surfaces with no gaps between the surfaces. It has a 1-year shelf life if not opened.

Epoxies are best used on rough surfaces and can tolerate larger gaps. Roughen the surfaces and clean with alcohol before application.

The BEST glue for styrene, acrylic, butyrate and ABS plastics is a solvent type cement that uses capillary action to actually melt the plastic and then fuse it back together into one piece. Search for ProWeld, Tenax-7R, or SameStuff at your hobby store, micromark.com, or on Amazon.
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  #20  
Old 12-20-2013, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by DIGGER27 View post
Sage, next time you need to bond anything to just about anything else, try J B Weld.

http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-clearweld/

http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld/

Their regular epoxy is steel reinforced according to their info, but I doubt it would affect anything when using the coil, and their clear version is designed to work on plastic...and it does.

I have been using these products for years, and even on hard use repairs like broken car window cranks I have yet to see any repair fail, ever.
x2 on JBWeld. That stuff is simply amazing, I've used it on all kinds of projects. I didn't know any of it had metal in it, will have to keep that in mind if I ever need to put any near a coil.

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