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  #41  
Old 07-17-2014, 02:23 PM
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TheCoilist TheCoilist is offline
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Originally Posted by shedigz View post
Is there anything wrong with using paper clips instead of alligator clips?
Make sure they're steel clips. You don't want zinc filled or anything like that. Steel holds up and conducts better. But I have seen people use them and safety pins for smaller objects.

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  #42  
Old 12-15-2014, 09:17 PM
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Not trying to jack a thread. I have a tattoo machine from a few years back could I use that as my supply source? Id be able to turn up the juice for efficiency..

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  #43  
Old 04-21-2016, 08:21 AM
DirtyPockets DirtyPockets is offline
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Great thread.

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  #44  
Old 03-29-2017, 11:05 PM
tony pana il tony pana il is offline
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Nice setup
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  #45  
Old 03-12-2019, 09:09 AM
Pete e Pete e is offline
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If you are predominately dealing with small objects like individual coins or cartridge cases, could you build a small unit ie something that only holds say 3/4 pint of solution in a small tin??
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  #46  
Old 09-03-2019, 01:14 PM
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Nice write-up and good photos, Ken.
I'll use a variable DC power supply I use to test aircraft instruments. Plastic tub and hardware cloth (screen) for sacrificial anodes.
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  #47  
Old 09-19-2022, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by kendallkirk View post
If you really want to hone in on the electrolyte solution strength, you should be able to use Ohm's Law: V = I x R (voltage = current x resistance).

I have never actually done this (I use the warm to the touch method described above), but it should work in theory. With alligator clips hooked to the part(s) and the sacrificial anode, and hanging in your electrolyte solution, but without the transformer hooked up, measure the resistance (Ohms) between the clip going to the parts and the clip going to the sacrificial anode.

The voltage (printed on the transformer) divided by the resistance measured will equal the current draw (amps). If the current draw calculated is greater than the capacity printed on the transformer, then your electrolyte solution needs to be diluted (dump some of it and make up with tap water). If the current draw calculated is less than the capacity printed on the transformer, then add more baking soda.

Example:
Transformer Output (printed on box): 9VDC, 800mA (equals 0.8 Amps)
Measured resistance: 5 Ohms
Calculated current at that resistance: 9 / 5 = 1.8 Amps
So, solution is too strong...dilute it a little more than half.
After dilution, measured resistance: 12 Ohms
Calculated current at new resistance: 9 / 12 = 0.75 Amps. This is less than the capacity of the transformer, so it should be okay.

Like I said, I have never really done this test, but it should work I think. If anybody knows otherwise, please correct me.
Realise this is an old post but your suggested method for honing your electrolysis fluid doesn't work and is not an appropriate test for two main reasons:

1. A multimeter uses a small amount of voltage to test resistance, around 2-5VDC. As soon as you connect the probes to the cathode and anode, your electrolysis cell is essentially 'on', albeit at very low voltage. But given electrolysis requires very little voltage, it's enough to generate a chemical reaction. The reading you get will reflect the input voltage and will not reflect the actual Ohms/amps being drawn when it's plugged in.

2. Water has a value of resistivity rather than resistance, stated in ohm-meters. This is due to the ratio of voltage to current being proportional to the distance and inversely proportional to the cross section of the water. Basically, resistance is not uniform/non linear in water.

I used you suggested method and with a multimeter the resistance in my electrolysis cell read ~562 Ohms. At 4.5VDC this would represent 0.008A being drawn. However, when I turn the electrolysis cell on and test amps, the reading was 0.79A, representing 5.69 Ohms.

Further, to prove there's DC present, I switched the probes and it returned a negative Ohm reading. In this situation, only a live circuit can cause a negative Ohm reading.

It's much simpler to just test amps while adjusting your electrolysis fluid.
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