MX7 and MX Sport Users
- Thread starter MidTN
- Start date
Sorry no one has responded yet. I really can't help you since I bought an MX7 and compared it to my MX5 and kept the MX5. There are a few good UTube vids on this subject along with some forum entries here and elsewhere.
Jeff
Jeff
Monte
"In Memory of"
I'll offer what help I can from using my MX-7..
While there are times and selected sites where I intentionally look for ferrous objects, the bulk of my Relic Hunting activities, which I started doing in May of '69 but shifted the bulk of my attention to in July of '83, take place at old ghosted townsites, homesteads, pioneer and military encampments, or perhaps very early/old dancehall locations, picnic and recreation sites, stage stops and railroad depots and so on.
The biggest challenges I encounter are areas with a very dense amount of iron nails, and some are even more challenging due to a lot of rusted tin, especially small shards of decaying tin debris ... almost everywhere!. Some folks don't want to hear iron so they use Discrimination ... often way too much Discrimination ... to reject all ferrous range or even a bit more into the conductive foil range.
I prefer to hear iron trash, such as nails and ferrous junk that has a conductivity similar to iron nails or more conductive. That way I know there was more human habitation and activity, and knowing iron is present I can slow my sweep and work in and around the iron to try and locate partially-masked keepers.
So while I don't mind recovering some iron junk, my Relic Hunting site selection is as stated, and my primary interests are non-ferrous things like early era coins, trade tokens, period jewelry and other things of interest from long ago. Sheep ear tags, old keys, buttons, locks, and so on.
I like to use detectors that are 'Simple.' That means I like to use detectors and adjustment features that are 'Functional,' and by that I mean I don't want or need excess 'fluff' with adjustment features that are needless to useless, or that call for counter-adjustments of other features, or a basic detector design that just isn't a good 'fit' ... from my common way of thinking ... to what most detectors let us use and adjust to have comparable results. And 3rd, I expect them to provide 'Performance' for me.
My favorite and most preferred serious Relic Hunting models, for the iron debris filled sites I like to search, are the Nokta FORS CoRe and FORS Relic. I prefer smaller-size coils, but do use a mid-size 5X9½ DD coil on the CoRe for some old sites if it is a fringe area of just has a lower-to-modest amount of iron trash. If it is heavier I use the CoRe w/'OOR' DD coil (4.7X5.2) and if modest to heavy nails contamination or other ferrous debris I grab my Relic w/5" DD.
Other favorite tools for 'average' Relic Hunting sites that have a lower level of iron contamination I also use a Makro Racer 2 w/7" Concentric coil. A 3rd and 4th pick, in any order for serious Relic Hunting challenges, are my Teknetics T2+ w/5" DD coil, and the White's MX-7 which mainly use the 6½" Concentric or 7" DD that was made for White's by Detech.
I have several challenging test scenarios I have relied on for 25 years that are put to the test with any and every detector I own, have owned, or borrowed to try out and see if any of them might satisfy me for the hunting I do in the sites I choose. My MX-7 settings for almost any place I hunt with it are:
Coin & Jewelry Mode:
• Discrimination: I drop down one segment and ACCEPT everything above -10.
• Sensitivity: I start at '8' and adjust as I feel necessary.
• Tone ID: Usually set for 2 Tone but sometimes for 4 Tone.
• Reject Volume: I use '10.'
• Ground Balance & Tracking: I GB for the site when I start, and I ALWAYS keep the Tracking 'OFF' and have the GB 'Locked.'
I have never used the round 950 Concentric standard coil with either of my MX-7s. Trashy sites need smaller-size search coils.
I keep my search rods extended so that the coil isn't out-stretched and is usually anywhere from 12" to 18" and no more than 24" ahead of my leading toe. I usually use a slow and methodical sweep speed and always overlap and ample amount. Most of the time my side-to-side sweep length is about 20" to 30" wide.
I consider the MX-7 to be White's current best detector value for urban Coin Hunting and rural Relic Hunting. It behaves like the MX Sport but the weight and balance is much better, and it has the proper-positioned headphone jack location at the rear by the armcup.
The MX-7 is a handy 'travel anywhere' detector that handles a lot of typical Relic Hunting needs above average. You are in Tennessee which puts you a greater distance from all of the old ghost towns sites we have been searching the past 5 years that are in Oregon, Utah and Nevada, but it sure would be a great way to learn the skills and learn your detector outfit if you could make one of our Welcome-to-Hunt Outings.
Our next WTHO is coming up soon, out of Wells, Nevada, from June 13th thru the 16th, and I can guarantee you that you can learn more about your detector's abilities, meet some great folks who enjoy these types of hunts, and see/learn what other makes and models are being used. Most of these places are very challenging when it comes to nails and other ferrous junk.
Best of success with your MX-7.
Monte
It might vary based on what your goals are, and descriptions of, 'Relic Hunting.' To some folks, Relic hunting means they are out to find anything, to include both ferrous and non-ferrous targets.MidTN said:
While there are times and selected sites where I intentionally look for ferrous objects, the bulk of my Relic Hunting activities, which I started doing in May of '69 but shifted the bulk of my attention to in July of '83, take place at old ghosted townsites, homesteads, pioneer and military encampments, or perhaps very early/old dancehall locations, picnic and recreation sites, stage stops and railroad depots and so on.
The biggest challenges I encounter are areas with a very dense amount of iron nails, and some are even more challenging due to a lot of rusted tin, especially small shards of decaying tin debris ... almost everywhere!. Some folks don't want to hear iron so they use Discrimination ... often way too much Discrimination ... to reject all ferrous range or even a bit more into the conductive foil range.
I prefer to hear iron trash, such as nails and ferrous junk that has a conductivity similar to iron nails or more conductive. That way I know there was more human habitation and activity, and knowing iron is present I can slow my sweep and work in and around the iron to try and locate partially-masked keepers.
So while I don't mind recovering some iron junk, my Relic Hunting site selection is as stated, and my primary interests are non-ferrous things like early era coins, trade tokens, period jewelry and other things of interest from long ago. Sheep ear tags, old keys, buttons, locks, and so on.
So my MX-7 set-up, or the settings I use on most of my other preferred Relic Hunting devices, are somewhat comparable. They are simple, straightforward, and follow the three rules of detector design, set-up and results I have strived to achieve since the '70s. Those are:MidTN said:
I like to use detectors that are 'Simple.' That means I like to use detectors and adjustment features that are 'Functional,' and by that I mean I don't want or need excess 'fluff' with adjustment features that are needless to useless, or that call for counter-adjustments of other features, or a basic detector design that just isn't a good 'fit' ... from my common way of thinking ... to what most detectors let us use and adjust to have comparable results. And 3rd, I expect them to provide 'Performance' for me.
My favorite and most preferred serious Relic Hunting models, for the iron debris filled sites I like to search, are the Nokta FORS CoRe and FORS Relic. I prefer smaller-size coils, but do use a mid-size 5X9½ DD coil on the CoRe for some old sites if it is a fringe area of just has a lower-to-modest amount of iron trash. If it is heavier I use the CoRe w/'OOR' DD coil (4.7X5.2) and if modest to heavy nails contamination or other ferrous debris I grab my Relic w/5" DD.
Other favorite tools for 'average' Relic Hunting sites that have a lower level of iron contamination I also use a Makro Racer 2 w/7" Concentric coil. A 3rd and 4th pick, in any order for serious Relic Hunting challenges, are my Teknetics T2+ w/5" DD coil, and the White's MX-7 which mainly use the 6½" Concentric or 7" DD that was made for White's by Detech.
I have several challenging test scenarios I have relied on for 25 years that are put to the test with any and every detector I own, have owned, or borrowed to try out and see if any of them might satisfy me for the hunting I do in the sites I choose. My MX-7 settings for almost any place I hunt with it are:
Coin & Jewelry Mode:
• Discrimination: I drop down one segment and ACCEPT everything above -10.
• Sensitivity: I start at '8' and adjust as I feel necessary.
• Tone ID: Usually set for 2 Tone but sometimes for 4 Tone.
• Reject Volume: I use '10.'
• Ground Balance & Tracking: I GB for the site when I start, and I ALWAYS keep the Tracking 'OFF' and have the GB 'Locked.'
I have never used the round 950 Concentric standard coil with either of my MX-7s. Trashy sites need smaller-size search coils.
I keep my search rods extended so that the coil isn't out-stretched and is usually anywhere from 12" to 18" and no more than 24" ahead of my leading toe. I usually use a slow and methodical sweep speed and always overlap and ample amount. Most of the time my side-to-side sweep length is about 20" to 30" wide.
I consider the MX-7 to be White's current best detector value for urban Coin Hunting and rural Relic Hunting. It behaves like the MX Sport but the weight and balance is much better, and it has the proper-positioned headphone jack location at the rear by the armcup.
The MX-7 is a handy 'travel anywhere' detector that handles a lot of typical Relic Hunting needs above average. You are in Tennessee which puts you a greater distance from all of the old ghost towns sites we have been searching the past 5 years that are in Oregon, Utah and Nevada, but it sure would be a great way to learn the skills and learn your detector outfit if you could make one of our Welcome-to-Hunt Outings.
Our next WTHO is coming up soon, out of Wells, Nevada, from June 13th thru the 16th, and I can guarantee you that you can learn more about your detector's abilities, meet some great folks who enjoy these types of hunts, and see/learn what other makes and models are being used. Most of these places are very challenging when it comes to nails and other ferrous junk.
Best of success with your MX-7.
Monte
Tajue17
Senior Member
I have a MXsport I use for underwater so far only fresh water swimming holes..... wish I could give you some custom settings but honestly I just set it for beach and bring the sens up a tad the pre-sets seem perfect.... Its hard to judge how deep im digging underwater but I have got some silver rings and quarters I'd say at least 8" deep in sand under say 5' of water. for above ground I reach for Tesoro the mxsport is called heavy by the elderly folks I think its a lot lighter than carrying a Belgium Browning A5 all day which might mean my arm is in shape too.
