My electrolysis results on an old brass button (before & after)

SevenOneSix

Elite Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2012
Messages
1,413
Location
WNY
Decided to make an electrolysis setup and clean up some finds. After testing a few pennies I decided to do one of my old buttons found at the 1824 site. I like the results and might just have to do the other button I found at this site.

Before:
IMG_20130909_185651_zps84a28caf.jpg

IMG_20130909_185640_zps616f3bea.jpg


After 3 minutes:
IMG_20130909_190330_zps9aeced03.jpg

IMG_20130909_190342_zpsa60d8699.jpg


After 3 more minutes:
IMG_20130909_191112_zps5daea08b.jpg

IMG_20130909_191123_zps43dea807.jpg


After 5 more minutes:
IMG_20130909_191916_zpse40fb1ea.jpg

IMG_20130909_191943_zps6a032270.jpg


After 5 more minutes:
IMG_20130909_193154_zps65281141.jpg

IMG_20130909_193212_zps9d43d4ee.jpg


Last 5 minutes:
IMG_20130909_194550_zps75ca58ee.jpg

IMG_20130909_194611_zps1ca8760a.jpg
 
Dang! that cleaned up nice! I wish Elctro was that fast on iron objects!
Congrats on a great button!
 
Dang! that cleaned up nice! I wish Elctro was that fast on iron objects!
Congrats on a great button!

Thanks Donneybrook! I tried an iron skeleton key the other night and after about an hour there wasnt much difference. It did look a bit better but nothing compared to the button.
 
Thanks Donneybrook! I tried an iron skeleton key the other night and after about an hour there wasnt much difference. It did look a bit better but nothing compared to the button.

Yeah, I usually leave stuff in over night. Sometimes for 48+ hrs if need be. Much rust on the key?
 
If you decide to do another button, would you mind posting a photo of it in progress? I'd love to see exactly how you're doing it.

Thanks!
 
15 Volts :yes: I have not seen that charger, do you know what it came with originally or was it a kitchen drawer find?
 
If you decide to do another button, would you mind posting a photo of it in progress? I'd love to see exactly how you're doing it.

Thanks!

I did the other button last night but im gonna put it back in today so i will post the pics for you. I clamped it several different ways trying to find the best results.
 
15 Volts :yes: I have not seen that charger, do you know what it came with originally or was it a kitchen drawer find?

It was in a box full of cell phone chargers. This was the only thing that had more than 5 volts. It works pretty good. If i find out what it was from i will let you know.
 
Sweet!

Ok - just so I understand your set-up...
1. You spliced a 15v cell phone charger to some spring clips.
2. You are plugged directly into the outlet; no rheostat, etc.
3. You submerge the spring clip in the solution with the button.

Remaining two questions: what material is the spoon made of and what solution are you using in the jar?

Thanks again for posting this!! :cool:
 
Ok - just so I understand your set-up...
1. You spliced a 15v cell phone charger to some spring clips.
2. You are plugged directly into the outlet; no rheostat, etc.
3. You submerge the spring clip in the solution with the button.

Remaining two questions: what material is the spoon made of and what solution are you using in the jar?

Thanks again for posting this!! :cool:

Thats the GENERAL gist of it....you need to google or you tube electrolysis rust removal though to learn how to safely do this.....there are a couple of real important things like getting + and - right, and NOT using stainless steel because it makes a poisonous gas.....its real effective, and I don't mean to butt in, just take the time to learn to do it safely!

Those buttons came out great by the way, I am thinking of doing some of mine!
 
Ok - just so I understand your set-up...
1. You spliced a 15v cell phone charger to some spring clips.
2. You are plugged directly into the outlet; no rheostat, etc.
3. You submerge the spring clip in the solution with the button.

Remaining two questions: what material is the spoon made of and what solution are you using in the jar?

Thanks again for posting this!! :cool:

The spoon is stainless steel. I didnt have any long small pieces of steel around.
The solution is 1/2 tbls baking soda to 2 1/2 cups water. I could probably bump it up to a full tablespoon when i do iron.

If you want your alligator clips to last longer, keep them out of the water. They are cheap so to me, i dont care.

Make sure you are not plugged into an outlet.

Negative to steel
Positive to your item

Do not touch the item to the spoon

If your steel is bubbling and your item is not then they are backwards. Just unplug from the outlet and connect them opposite.

When everything is hooked back up, plug back in and now the spoon should be bubbling a little bit but your item will also be bubbling.

My spoon bubbled more when i first used it. Now that its been used a bit it bubbles less over time and will break down. Do not use it to eat with.

Hope this info helps. Im still very new at this so everything i learned was from research

I did notice after 5 minutes that the first button had dark marks like if you held a lighter to a piece of metal and torched it. Im not sure if this meant it was burning the button or something else and i wasnt going i leave it in longer to find out. So the reason i choose not to go over 5 minutes each session.

Rubbing your item in baking soda also gets alot of the crud off. I did this lightly each time i took them out, then used a little water and soft toothbrush, dipped them in water to rinse before repeating the electrolysis.
 
Thats the GENERAL gist of it....you need to google or you tube electrolysis rust removal though to learn how to safely do this.....there are a couple of real important things like getting + and - right, and NOT using stainless steel because it makes a poisonous gas.....its real effective, and I don't mean to butt in, just take the time to learn to do it safely!

Those buttons came out great by the way, I am thinking of doing some of mine!

Thanks for chiming in upstate.

There are safety precautions that need to be taken and i feel researching and learning is the best way to do things.

The stainless steel spoon will be upgraded but since im doing this in a well ventilated, pretty much outside area i felt it wouldnt be as harmful. Hopefully i am correct.
 
Thanks 7-1-6.
BTW - I think the "gas" Upstate was referring to, in regard to stainless steel, is actually a chemical component called Hexavalent Chromium. It's a nasty carcinogenic byproduct produced by stainless during electrolysis. It's the same stuff they refer to in the Erin Brockovich movie.

So be careful working with that and certainly when disposing of the waste water. Better yet, as you said, work with something besides stainless.

Good luck and thanks again for the info.
 
I am confused about this setup from the pictures.....also, Electrolysis is what the professionals use, including museums, who say that for proper electrolytic cleaning that there is before and after care, and that it should be done for 6-24 months before taking it out. With a proper setup I don't see how 5 minutes could hurt anything, except that, I thought I read that it should really only be used with iron or it could do more harm than good....Please don't quote me on this I could be wrong? I use the bucket technique with 6 anodes and a 12v/6a charger. I read the big boys use up to 200 amps but a low voltage for things like civil war cannons.
 
illfindit - I've read several papers on this as well and while there are actually several metals you can use, the general consensus is that stainless steel is the best for iron-based objects. The downside (aside from cost) is, as I mentioned, the chemical byproducts - hexavalent chromium being the nastiest. So for the home hobbyist, it's not recommended.

Experts typically recommend a material with a lot of surface area and recommend conforming it to the shape of the object (without touching it). That's why materials like expanded steel mesh work really well. The reason being is the greater the surface area, and the closer the proximity, the faster and more thorough the transference of ions. Of course you can do it with re-bar, sheet metal or any similar material and it should work just fine. I suppose it's akin to using a hammer or a screwdriver handle to pound a nail - they'll both do the job, but one tends to do it better than the other. :lol:

As far as the power source, one opinion is that the greater the amps the faster the cleaning. This may be true but there are several problems with this, including the potential of burning out your power source. In some cases you may also damage the item(s). That's why when dealing with very rare or precious artifacts, low and slow is usually best to guarantee minimal damage or loss. Obviously professional restorers, universities, museums, etc. will have more complex setups with top quality (and expensive) equipment as well - not to mention l-o-t-s of time. But for the home hobbyist, these small setups seem to work just fine.

As far as after-care, this usually has to deal with drying the item thoroughly and rust prevention. A lot of professionals use paraffin wax for smaller items. The reason being is the high melt-point temperature will steam off any water remaining in the object and will form a nice matte, rust-preventative layer on the object. In fact, a member on here did a few axe heads awhile back using this method and they turned out fantastic (in my opinion).

That's my two cents - Good luck!
 
Back
Top Bottom