All the high signals I dig up are either iron or aluminum.

Learn to use the pinpoint feature to determine this size of the target. A large target will have a wide footprint when pinpointed. No need to bother digging large targets if your coin hunting......
 
Learn to use the pinpoint feature to determine this size of the target. A large target will have a wide footprint when pinpointed. No need to bother digging large targets if your coin hunting......

You are right. But on the other hand, I had to chuckle when I read this. While it is true, yet on the other hand, it is the exact reason why more caches were found back in the 1960s and early 1970s by md'rs, than today.

Today's wonderful machines, like you point out, can tell us, via audio, large vs small. Hence yes, we all tend to subconsciously pass that "large junk" (hubcabs, surface sprinkler head, etc...) . Ie.: Durned that big junk after all, eh ? But the size of a coin is quite distinct from the large footprint junk.

But yesteryear machines didn't have as much audio differentiation. In fact, it was everything they could do, to reach a coin at 3" or whatever. Yet they picked up a soda can or hubcap "just fine". As a result, more caches were found by yesteryear hunters (and .... likewise .... tons more junk), than today's machines.
 
You are right. But on the other hand, I had to chuckle when I read this. While it is true, yet on the other hand, it is the exact reason why more caches were found back in the 1960s and early 1970s by md'rs, than today.

Today's wonderful machines, like you point out, can tell us, via audio, large vs small. Hence yes, we all tend to subconsciously pass that "large junk" (hubcabs, surface sprinkler head, etc...) . Ie.: Durned that big junk after all, eh ? But the size of a coin is quite distinct from the large footprint junk.

But yesteryear machines didn't have as much audio differentiation. In fact, it was everything they could do, to reach a coin at 3" or whatever. Yet they picked up a soda can or hubcap "just fine". As a result, more caches were found by yesteryear hunters (and .... likewise .... tons more junk), than today's machines.

This is true. Many early settlers who didn't have access to banks would bury their money and valuables on their property. There were also those eccentric people who did not trust the banks and would do the same.

Who knows how many big Tin boxes full of cash or treasure we have passed by because it didn't fit our definition of what a good target sounds or looks like.
 
I always dig big iron because I detect in the woods. Love finding ax heads, horseshoes and other iron relics. But if you don't want to dig them, use the pinpoint feature on the At Pro. By holding the pinpoint button down and moving it along the target area, you can roughly determine the size of the object. I use that feature to eliminate nails, but you can do the opposite and use it to eliminate big iron and aluminum targets.
 
There has been some great ideas here that I will try. The one thing I found is the Iron Audio button as some of the people here has mentioned. if you turn on Iron audio you will here a scratch sound and then you know its iron. I have not found Iron to be that big of a hinderance where I hunt but soda cans and tops of any kind of bottles do sound great at times..
Good luck!!
 
Unless I go to my kids' school - where I can dig up a couple bucks in change pretty quick - I only seem to find large pieces of iron when my AT Pro rings up in the 80s and higher.

I know I have to get better at 'reading' my AT's signals, but I can't differentiate between what might be a big piece of aluminum or steel as opposed to having a piece of iron AND silver coin next to each other. Very frustrating.

I know on my Ace 250 when I get a low tone ..a real big Iron tone.. it'll overload to the high tone. It'll go low and then go "ding"... if you're in all-metal mode you can hear the low tone first and usually the target substance is first tone you hear. In the case of two different targets masking each other.. I dont try to seperate....I just dig it.

I
 
If you've ever read one of Charles Garretts books and seen the pictures of gold coin and coin caches that people have found inside Prince Albert cans and metal boxes ...you might think twice about passing up some of that iron .I always go by my gut... if it says dig I dig. no matter what.
 
I am not familiar with the AT pro, but that doesn't sound right for a discriminating detector. Most all modern discriminating detectors will give different signals for aluminum vs iron vs coins (pennies, dimes, quarters, etc...).

But a few notes:

a) The iron "O" rings can sometimes fool you. Also soldered can bottom (the coffee can type bottoms from the 1850s). But if you're getting fooled all the time by normal scrap iron (cast iron parts, etc...) then you're doing something wrong, or interpreting the tones wrong. Try doing a momentary speeding up of the coil-swing speed. Sometimes, by varying the swing speed: Some machines will start to "break up" the iron . Versus if it were a coin, it stays concise and clear.

b) As for aluminum: If you get a BIG ENOUGH piece of aluminum (eg.: the entire can), then yes: It will ring up at penny or quarter or whatever. But the tell-tale audio of the size, should give it away as being larger than a coin. And then you can decide if you want to pass it or not.

Tom is right as usual. One thing I do when I get fooled by large junk targets is turn my pin pointer on high sensitivity and press it to the ground and trace the size of the target. If it is a big target somewhat close to the surface you can trace the outline with the pin pointer. a coin won't sound off or will just be in a very small area as you would expect.

But this runs the risk of the big iron masking a good target. That can and does happen, so to be sure dig the iron and sweep the target area a few more times.
 
from my experience with the Nox 800 for a long while nothing seem to make sense for two reasons. 1) the Nox 800 will see darn near every thing no matter the size. 2) most of the places I hunted were very trashy. So a long but very effective learning curve.

Then I started getting some good permissions of late 1890's homes that were low trash. (I got this idea from Wilddigger, he and JB were pulling in some very good targets with their Nox detectors. Why, experience and good permissions).

So now with good permissions on almost all targets dug, I knew the good ones from the bad. Correctly ID pull tabs, foil and coins before I dug. But as usual a aluminum screw cap had me convinced I had silver coin. I really don't know how you can keep them from fooling me on the 800.

I have pleasantly found that permissions are not as hard to get as once thought. The owners of older properties tend to be very curious on what I might find on their property. I photograph what I find and targets that I don't want to keep I give to the property owners. Actually it turns out I end up giving most stuff to them since I am over collecting dirty coins. A twenty dollar gold coin? Well I think I would sell that and just split the dollars with the property owner.

I guess it is that the good sites here in North Atlanta are so rare that I just am happy the the property owner would let me hunt the property.
 
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