plug cutting

tag1260

Junior Member
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Sep 5, 2019
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OK. Not sure where this goes but how do I cut plugs that don't kill the grass? Is it just the nature of the game or am I doing something wrong?

I cut completely around the hole that I'm about to dig and lay the grass aside. Then dig and fill, then replace the plug that I cut. Next day it's brown and dead.

Can it be avoided?

Thanks
 
Whenever I cut plugs they don’t seem to die and I’m doing what it sounds like you’re doing. They do take a bit to look completely normal. I’d imagine it’s like new sod. It needs water ASAP or it will start to die since the roots aren’t connected...


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Whenever I cut plugs they don’t seem to die and I’m doing what it sounds like you’re doing. They do take a bit to look completely normal. I’d imagine it’s like new sod. It needs water ASAP or it will start to die since the roots aren’t connected...


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I had thought about the water thing. Maybe I'll try watering them.

(note to self: just what I need. Carry another 10# in the form of a water bottle!!!):lol:
 
If the dirt/soil is bone dry directly beneath the grass, then there's not much you can do other than go somewhere else, or focus on shallow targets and use other techniques to extract the coin. A shallow coin can easily be pinpointed prior to digging with a handheld pinpointer and then removed with minimal disturbance of the grass/soil.

So, one takeaway is to only dig large plugs when you need to go deeper than what your pinpointer can detect. Cut a slit or a very small plug. If the grass dies it will be unnoticeable.

Whether the ground is dry or not, a 360 degree can still kill the ground cover depending on what it is. Some ground covers are creeping and usually won't survive just on the small roots put down as they grow sideways. A 360 degree plug will literally cut that plant off on all sides and what's left in the middle will die. A two sided V cut flap for medium depth targets, or a 3 sided square flap for deeper targets, will keep the ground cover attached/uncut on at least one or two sides. That increases it's chance of survival.

If it's turf grass, a 360 cut will also kill it if you don't cut the plug deep enough, or if you do a cone shape plug. In either case, your cutting the roots off. Just cutting deep enough to peel back a flap of grass and then digging out the hole will probably kill the ground cover.

To protect the roots (and the target), cut plug walls straight down past the roots. Ideally, your plug should have dirt attached to it with roots inside.

For similar reason, don't cut plugs in a cone shape unless there's a good reason. You not only risk stabbing the target, you cut roots short around the perimeter. Plus, you'll have to remove a bunch more dirt unless your pinpointing was spot on.

Its counter intuitive, but the pristine yards with thick turf grass are the easiest to keep alive because of the deep vertical root development. Pop out the shallow targets, and for the larger plugs either cut two sided V flaps (medium depth) or 3 sided square flap plugs (deep) all with straight walls. Go a few inches deep in the first cut to protect the roots. If the coin is in the plug, then just extract it from below and don't tear the roots up more than necessary.
 
Thanks. I'm definitely not leaving the plug attached so that might be the majority of the problem. Haven't been at this too long and do believe that leaving minimal impact on the ground is the way to go.
 
Cut 3/4 circle so it leaves some roots attached .

Yep, another "vote" for the above method! Just leave a portion of the grass/sod attached, so that the roots are not completely severed. With the plug still connected to the rest of the turf, it's less likely to wither. :waytogo:

If the dirt/soil is bone dry directly beneath the grass, then there's not much you can do other than go somewhere else, or focus on shallow targets and use other techniques to extract the coin. A shallow coin can easily be pinpointed prior to digging with a handheld pinpointer and then removed with minimal disturbance of the grass/soil.

So, one takeaway is to only dig large plugs when you need to go deeper than what your pinpointer can detect. Cut a slit or a very small plug. If the grass dies it will be unnoticeable.

Whether the ground is dry or not, a 360 degree can still kill the ground cover depending on what it is. Some ground covers are creeping and usually won't survive just on the small roots put down as they grow sideways. A 360 degree plug will literally cut that plant off on all sides and what's left in the middle will die. A two sided V cut flap for medium depth targets, or a 3 sided square flap for deeper targets, will keep the ground cover attached/uncut on at least one or two sides. That increases it's chance of survival.

If it's turf grass, a 360 cut will also kill it if you don't cut the plug deep enough, or if you do a cone shape plug. In either case, your cutting the roots off. Just cutting deep enough to peel back a flap of grass and then digging out the hole will probably kill the ground cover.

To protect the roots (and the target), cut plug walls straight down past the roots. Ideally, your plug should have dirt attached to it with roots inside.

For similar reason, don't cut plugs in a cone shape unless there's a good reason. You not only risk stabbing the target, you cut roots short around the perimeter. Plus, you'll have to remove a bunch more dirt unless your pinpointing was spot on.

Its counter intuitive, but the pristine yards with thick turf grass are the easiest to keep alive because of the deep vertical root development. Pop out the shallow targets, and for the larger plugs either cut two sided V flaps (medium depth) or 3 sided square flap plugs (deep) all with straight walls. Go a few inches deep in the first cut to protect the roots. If the coin is in the plug, then just extract it from below and don't tear the roots up more than necessary.
Thanks for the helpful information! I've feel as though I've just had a lesson on cutting the optimal plug. :goodpost:
 
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I think I'm seeing a problem not only with my technique but also with our dry soil and somewhat sparse grass. I'll try c-cuts and maybe water as I really don't hunt too far from my truck.

Maybe just water the holes that give me something worth keeping!!!!!!!!:lol:
 
I think I'm seeing a problem not only with my technique but also with our dry soil and somewhat sparse grass. I'll try c-cuts and maybe water as I really don't hunt too far from my truck.

Maybe just water the holes that give me something worth keeping!!!!!!!!:lol:

When it's as dry as it's been this summer I won't bother asking permission in a residential yard. Wait until fall when the digging is easy and the plugs hold together. Sure, if the yard is already spotty and you'll never tell the differenc, then go ahead. I tried to get a permission today that I've been eyeballing for awhile, but that's because the owner just tore the yard up for new landscaping. (No, I didn't get the OK. He looked at me like I was trying to pull a fast one but couldn't figure out what it might be.)
 
If the dirt/soil is bone dry directly beneath the grass, then there's not much you can do other than go somewhere else, or focus on shallow targets and use other techniques to extract the coin.

All of TS’s post is filled with excellent plug cutting advice, but the quote above might be the best guidance of all if you’re in dry conditions. Attempting to dig plugs in bone dry ground will almost guarantee the grass will die, and watering after the fact really won’t prevent it. A lot of detectorists, myself included, tend to slow down in the summer months as things get dry - few things give the hobby a black eye faster than dead circles of grass in a private yard or park. Sometimes you just have to wait for wetter weather.
 
There is always the same discussion on whether to cut a C plug or a round plug. I talked to a landscaper and he said that in his opinion the C plug would do more damage to roots than a circular plug. He said the roots on the uncut side would be damaged over a larger area than cutting straight down thru the roots.

So for years I have followed his advice. I have only had plugs turn brown one time and that was when it was hot and dry. So I waited until it rained before did any detecting and the plugs did turn green once we got some rain.

I suspect that the problem you are having with the grass turning brown is due to the Heat and dryness of the soil.
 
Here's a blog article I wrote to try and help demonstrate how to cut a plug. I also use the round method to cutting a plug, but I leave the top side attached as I "pop the plug" to open up the hole. I hope this helps!
 
All of TS’s post is filled with excellent plug cutting advice, but the quote above might be the best guidance of all if you’re in dry conditions. Attempting to dig plugs in bone dry ground will almost guarantee the grass will die, and watering after the fact really won’t prevent it. A lot of detectorists, myself included, tend to slow down in the summer months as things get dry - few things give the hobby a black eye faster than dead circles of grass in a private yard or park. Sometimes you just have to wait for wetter weather.

Exactly, when soil is bone dry I do not dig plugs. If I go to a park then only look for shallow targets that I can simply pop out.

Also since it tends to be hot I also don't like being in the open, sun. So I go into wooded areas where it is at least shady and cooler. Then there is no issue with dead circles of grass.
 
Exactly, when soil is bone dry I do not dig plugs. If I go to a park then only look for shallow targets that I can simply pop out.

Yep. I'm not going to trash somebody's yard unless it's already trashed and they don't care. Farm fields, sidewalk and pavement tear outs, the woods, yards getting re-landscaped, low lying shady areas, and sand and mulched areas all offer opportunities to detect even when the ground is too dry to cut a plug that will hold together and also not kill the ground cover.
 
its the dry soil.... cutting 3/4 or removing whole plug doesn't make much of a difference in my experience. shallow plugs that don't go below the roots can do it as well, but Dry soil on the other hand will do it every single time.
 
I hunt all spring, summer and fall, and only do curb strips and private yards. I have not had much of a problem with dead brown grass, as I bring several gallon plastic jugs of water in the car, and set one on the ground nearby or carry one with me when detecting.

I cut a "horseshoe" shaped plug that keeps the roots intact on one part of the plug, and hinge it over to find the coin / token / ring with my pinpointer. The dirt goes on a towel next to the hole to keep the lawn clean. After the target is located, I put the dirt back into the hole, pour in plenty of water to keep the roots of the grass healthy, and press or step the grass back into place. If it is dry and hot, I may even add some water to the top of the plug when everything is back in place. Many of the Montana yards I detect have underground sprinkler systems that are functional, and that also helps to keep the lawn green and happy after I am done detecting.

You can laugh, but I may go thru 10-12 GALLONS of water on an 6-8 hour detecting hunt. I am often asking the homeowner if I can use their outdoor faucet for water, as then the homeowner realizes I am doing my very best to keep their lawn in good shape. Sometimes I wander the neighborhood I am detecting in searching for outdoor faucets to refill my jugs!:lol:
 
I have always cut a complete circle. Only one time have I ever had a plug turn brown. It was far too hot and far too dry. It rained a few days later and the plug greened back up.

Make certain that you are cutting deep enough that the roots are contained in the plug.
 
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