Acrylic (water based) v. Enamel (oil based)

Dantheman

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So I have dug some old bronze, copper, and brass items in marsh area as well as sodium rich areas. Many of them seem to develop bronze disease. I am in the process of soaking a bridal rosette and a clock part in a sesquicarbonate solution at the moment as well as some copper pieces. It is a mix of about half and half of washing powder and baking soda. I figure a few days in that should help. I am going to try soaking in Benzotriazole and ethanol (some Everclear) mix for a few days as well to soak into the cracks and add a protective layer.

For the final coat, I am not sure if I should add an acrylic lacquer (water based) modge podge spray or clear enamel from Rustoleum (oil based) for the final of these bronze, copper, or brass pieces that are getting bronze disease from being dug up in a marsh/ sodium heavy area. Any thoughts? I have seen some preservation sites recommend the acrylic method and nothing on an oil enamel.

I have Renn Wax but hate how much it costs. I plan to save and use only on colonial coppers and flat buttons. Just the little really old small stuff.
 
Here are the pieces. I am treating the clock part and bridle rosette.

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The biggest issue with those paints is IF you ever want to remove them later. Next is some will discolor wit age.
Over wise they will seal the relic from air and moisture.

Acrylic is water base for thinning and clean up but before it dries. When dry it has gone through a change into a plastic and is not longer water solvable.

Renn wax is easily removed with mineral spirits and was a major reason for its development and use by the British museum.

Last, TEST of another object before use.
 
The biggest issue with those paints is IF you ever want to remove them later. Next is some will discolor wit age.
Over wise they will seal the relic from air and moisture.

Acrylic is water base for thinning and clean up but before it dries. When dry it has gone through a change into a plastic and is not longer water solvable.

Renn wax is easily removed with mineral spirits and was a major reason for its development and use by the British museum.

Last, TEST of another object before use.

thanks, I did some with the Renn wax and some with clear enamel. I figure I will do the ren wax on the older stuff and acrylic or enamel on the newer.
 
You might do a test on a valueless coin to see for sure, but the acrylic sealer should come off buy cleaning it with acetone and acetone won't damage the coin.
 
You might do a test on a valueless coin to see for sure, but the acrylic sealer should come off buy cleaning it with acetone and acetone won't damage the coin.

thanks, I used the enamel on a clock part I have. It made it a bit darker but looks nice in my opinion. I don't think I will need to go back and take any coating off. I guess I will find out in a few years if it was the right choice.
 
Look into "Eastwood Patina Protector". Eastwood is an automotive restoration supply company. I've used it on vintage motorcycle restorations. As I recall, it's lacquer based. It leaves a very, very slight sheen. If you want the original patina look and want some protection against further degradation, I'd recommend it. It's not horribly expensive, it's a spray can, but goes a long way.
 
Look into "Eastwood Patina Protector". Eastwood is an automotive restoration supply company. I've used it on vintage motorcycle restorations. As I recall, it's lacquer based. It leaves a very, very slight sheen. If you want the original patina look and want some protection against further degradation, I'd recommend it. It's not horribly expensive, it's a spray can, but goes a long way.

Nice, I will look into that. I want a few options and will see how they hold up over time. Thanks.
 
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