Anyone build their own trusses or rafter framing?

GroundSweeper

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I'm looking at building a carport, 22' wide, 20' deep, using 4x6 posts - 3 8' on each side topped with two 10 on each side as beams. 4x4 braces on those. Figure I'll build up my own trusses, have seen a few online truss calculators but not seeing anything super great out there. We get snow, 3' accumulation over a few days during a BIG storm maybe tops, 3200' el. Thought I'd use Fink trusses for the 22' span, 2x6 top/bottom chords, 2x4 web/bracing? Or would 2x4 be alright for chords, 24" OC, so 11 trusses, topped with 15/32 sheathing etc.

Long shot but figure there's gotta be some carpenters on the Friendly :lol:

Thanks!
 
Built a 24x32 barn a few years ago. I try to do everything I can myself, but buying trusses was cheaper and much quicker than building.

IIRC (and this was before prices went stupid), I bought 9 trusses (100% 2x4) for 24' span, 12" OH on each end, for $1K.

I'd certainly do a cost comparison buy vs build, and factor in the time/labor. You might be surprised, especially if you could get a price for all the trusses/lumber/materials from the same place.

That said, either way isn't going to be cheap (not that you figured it would be). And if it were something I didn't "need" ASAP, I don't know I wouldn't hold off until things got a bit better.
 
I built them many times. An old buddy had a truss company and after he went digital he gave me a LOT of truss plans and specs. Later I
ended up throwing them away because as Gauntlet said you can have them built and delivered for your cost if you shop around. If there aren't any companies around or not enough to be competitive then you should be able to contact your planning and zoning or a university extension office for what truss design and spacing is required for your snow load. You may be able to find something on the internet as well. My son and I are both waiting to build HOPING material cost will come down. Good luck.
PS I'll never forget hearing an architect once say it's easy to overbuild a bridge, the hardest part is building it just stong enough. That will save you some money but it could add worry that may not be worth it in the long run.
 
Built a 24x32 barn a few years ago. I try to do everything I can myself, but buying trusses was cheaper and much quicker than building.

IIRC (and this was before prices went stupid), I bought 9 trusses (100% 2x4) for 24' span, 12" OH on each end, for $1K.

I'd certainly do a cost comparison buy vs build, and factor in the time/labor. You might be surprised, especially if you could get a price for all the trusses/lumber/materials from the same place.

That said, either way isn't going to be cheap (not that you figured it would be). And if it were something I didn't "need" ASAP, I don't know I wouldn't hold off until things got a bit better.

Thanks for the feedback/thoughts. Appreciated.

I'm going to hold off, and will get a quote and maybe a design out of it for trusses meanwhile maybe. Going to redo my back deck instead :laughing:

I fear things are NEVER going to get 'better' :(.

I built them many times. An old buddy had a truss company and after he went digital he gave me a LOT of truss plans and specs. Later I
ended up throwing them away because as Gauntlet said you can have them built and delivered for your cost if you shop around. If there aren't any companies around or not enough to be competitive then you should be able to contact your planning and zoning or a university extension office for what truss design and spacing is required for your snow load. You may be able to find something on the internet as well. My son and I are both waiting to build HOPING material cost will come down. Good luck.
PS I'll never forget hearing an architect once say it's easy to overbuild a bridge, the hardest part is building it just stong enough. That will save you some money but it could add worry that may not be worth it in the long run.

Thanks for the info and thoughs, much appreciated. Materials costs have come down since I build a shed last summer? but I fear things are just going to go the other direction from here on out :( hope I'm wrong.

Going to hold off on the carport and redo my back deck first....
 
Thanks for the feedback/thoughts. Appreciated.

I'm going to hold off, and will get a quote and maybe a design out of it for trusses meanwhile maybe. Going to redo my back deck instead :laughing:

I fear things are NEVER going to get 'better' :(.

I'm wanting to move a bit further north (TN/KY) to be closer to family. I'd made the decision just prior to the downturn. Now I have to postpone it to save the financial hit.

It'll get better, sooner than you think ;)
 
I have made a lot of trusses over the years. If you make them it's best to have a drawing on some flat ground to make them all exactly the same. Usually you got the floor done, then built the walls. Then make a truss. Trace that one on the floor. Then make sure they all fall into the lines before putting together. Keeps the roof uniform. Also good if you add "Bird mouth's" to help align and lock the trusses in.
 
As others have said....on a decent size building it is often better to order them. It is almost always cheaper. Also this may be a up north thing(snow weight)....but I have never seen anything less than 2x6 used on gaps over 20 ft. I built a 30x32 foot building, and all codes here required it to be 2x6. Though this could be because I used scissor truss design. The only two things on the entire building it was cheaper for me to source out than do myself was the foundation pour and the trusses.
 
As others have said....on a decent size building it is often better to order them. It is almost always cheaper. Also this may be a up north thing(snow weight)....but I have never seen anything less than 2x6 used on gaps over 20 ft. I built a 30x32 foot building, and all codes here required it to be 2x6. Though this could be because I used scissor truss design. The only two things on the entire building it was cheaper for me to source out than do myself was the foundation pour and the trusses.

I'm 24' span, 26' OAL can't remember if 4/12 or 5/12, but 100% 2x4 truss, 48" OC.
 
Well matter of fact, 2 weeks ago I spent a couple days up north in Cadillac, Mi helping a buddy build a screened porch for his daughter and son in law. They’re completely off-grid btw.

Buddy insisted on doing the bird’s mouth just to gain an extra inch pitch-wise…i grumbled because it cost all that extra time and measure twice cut once didn’t quite work like it should lol…
 

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you have snow fall? We built everything on the property with a 4/12 or 5/12 pitch as well.

How much snow do you get Tpmetal? I was going to do 4/12. Sounds like it would be prudent to do 2x6, thanks.

Since I've put the project on hold, I'll try and get a design/estimate from a place or two and maybe that will help meanwhile.
 
How much snow do you get Tpmetal? I was going to do 4/12. Sounds like it would be prudent to do 2x6, thanks.

Since I've put the project on hold, I'll try and get a design/estimate from a place or two and maybe that will help meanwhile.

We have had anywhere from 1 to 3 feet(western ny lake effect) that actually sits on the roof. Nothing like what can happen slightly west of me or in the mountains somewhere, but enough to be a problem. Snow can be HEAVY when you get a couple feet stacked up on the roof. Only once in my 35years have we had to shovel the roof because we started to worry about the weight, it was getting to be about 4 or 5 feet tall on the roof.
 
I have made a lot of trusses over the years. If you make them it's best to have a drawing on some flat ground to make them all exactly the same. Usually you got the floor done, then built the walls. Then make a truss. Trace that one on the floor. Then make sure they all fall into the lines before putting together. Keeps the roof uniform. Also good if you add "Bird mouth's" to help align and lock the trusses in.

Thanks Itsa, I've seen some videos where they draw it out, even block it out some to align. Right now my driveway is an uneven gravel mess, part of the reason for delaying this build, is to get some concrete estimates and plan for that first!

As others have said....on a decent size building it is often better to order them. It is almost always cheaper. Also this may be a up north thing(snow weight)....but I have never seen anything less than 2x6 used on gaps over 20 ft. I built a 30x32 foot building, and all codes here required it to be 2x6. Though this could be because I used scissor truss design. The only two things on the entire building it was cheaper for me to source out than do myself was the foundation pour and the trusses.

Yes, worried about the snow here for sure. 2-3' (big year) of snow atop a roof over my cars, it's gotta stay up!

Well matter of fact, 2 weeks ago I spent a couple days up north in Cadillac, Mi helping a buddy build a screened porch for his daughter and son in law. They’re completely off-grid btw.

Buddy insisted on doing the bird’s mouth just to gain an extra inch pitch-wise…i grumbled because it cost all that extra time and measure twice cut once didn’t quite work like it should lol…

Nice looking 'shed' roof. I built one like that off the back of my house to make a laundry room, that one looks like it'll be nice to keep the snow and rain off the porch! Going to screen it in to keep the skeeters out too?
 
Another thought is if weather (snow) is an issue you might think about going the metal truss construction which componets are available in 24 ft lengths if needed and are very strong. The metal is easy to work with if you have the right tools.
 
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