I just moved to a North Carolina beach house and would like to try my hand at metal detecting. I have been researching detectors for a max budget of $300 but every time I come across one good review a hear a contridicting one for the product. For example there was a review of the Garrett Ace 350 and BH Platinum speaking highly of both, but then a reviewer said there are better options out there for that price range. Can someone help me out? I know I need the machine to be VLF and waterproof, and I don't want a machine that "freaks out" in wet sandy conditions....any suggestions? -Thanks
Beach Hunting on a Budget
- Thread starter sethr123
- Start date
beest
Elite Member
I think it's hard to find a decent $300 detector that fullfil's your wishes, even a used one.
Salty wet sand, waterdetector, stable reactions, that's top of the range your wishing.
Can't you start with a avarage one and "find" the rest of the budget?
Salty wet sand, waterdetector, stable reactions, that's top of the range your wishing.
Can't you start with a avarage one and "find" the rest of the budget?
Hello from White Plains, New York!
Can't do beach on "low budget," sorry. The VLF metal detector sends 12,000 - 60,000 radio waves per-second into the ground. When the radio waves hit something conductive - like an iron nail, gold ring, coin or aluminum pulltab, a magnetic field sets up around the object and a particular signal frequency is transmitted back to the detector's receiving coil. VLF metal detectors have the ability to "discriminate," or tell what type of metal they are seeing by "reading" the return signal frequency. An iron nail for example, has a different frequency than a silver coin. The processor in the metal detector knows the difference between the two, and can be set to remain silent when seeing the nail. However, the radio waves bounce off everything that is conductive in the sand or water. This is why VLF detectors must be "ground balanced" to work effectively in highly mineralized soil, or on highly conductive saltwater beaches. You must tune or adjust the machine to see through the "fog," or white-noise created by the salt and iron in the sand or water you are detecting. Unfortunately, this usually leads to a loss of depth and stability with most VLF detectors.
A pulse induction or, "PI" metal detector, sends out hundreds of electric pulses-per-second, rather than thousands of radio waves. While PI metal detectors do not have the ability to discriminate between different types of metal, their powerful pulses go much deeper than the VLF signal, and eliminate the problem of mineral conductivity. A pulse induction detector measures the decay rate of the electronic pulses it sends out, and looks for anomalies. The strong electronic pulse is not conducted by the salt in the water or the iron in the black sands. Think of a Navy ship "pinging" with its sonar for an enemy submarine. If there is nothing in the water the "ping" just continues on and fades out at the same measured rate. If the submarine is there, the signal decay is interrupted and bounces back to the sonar operator on the ship.
Most successful ocean-beach detectorists, own both types of detector. The land-based VLF unit is preferred in the dry sand blanket area because you can use discrimination to knock out iron and still achieve superior depth without loss of stability. The pulse induction machine is used on the wet ocean- and black- sands, as well as in the surf.
Beach and Water Hunting Equipment
Sand Scoop - Whether hunting fresh- or salt- water beaches, you need the right equipment to recover your targets. A good beach or sand scoop is a must. Choose your scoop based on the types of beaches you will be hunting, and the area of the beach. Generally, a long-handled large capacity sand scoop is desirable in the water. Aircraft-grade aluminum and stainless steel scoops come in a variety of shapes, lengths, weights, and prices. In the dry sand, a short-handled scoop is usually faster and easier to use. Do not buy a cheap scoop. This piece of equipment is essential - and just as important to your success as the metal detector you choose.
Finds Pouch - You will need a pouch to put your finds in. An inexpensive cloth nail pouch works great on the beach, but you will need something a bit more substantial for your wet sand and water finds. Large, open mesh, multi-pocket belt pouches with Velcro closures are ideal for the water. They allow the sand and water to rinse out, and secure your finds so they are not lost in the surf - again!
Read the rest here http://www.terrysoloman.com/id18.html
Can't do beach on "low budget," sorry. The VLF metal detector sends 12,000 - 60,000 radio waves per-second into the ground. When the radio waves hit something conductive - like an iron nail, gold ring, coin or aluminum pulltab, a magnetic field sets up around the object and a particular signal frequency is transmitted back to the detector's receiving coil. VLF metal detectors have the ability to "discriminate," or tell what type of metal they are seeing by "reading" the return signal frequency. An iron nail for example, has a different frequency than a silver coin. The processor in the metal detector knows the difference between the two, and can be set to remain silent when seeing the nail. However, the radio waves bounce off everything that is conductive in the sand or water. This is why VLF detectors must be "ground balanced" to work effectively in highly mineralized soil, or on highly conductive saltwater beaches. You must tune or adjust the machine to see through the "fog," or white-noise created by the salt and iron in the sand or water you are detecting. Unfortunately, this usually leads to a loss of depth and stability with most VLF detectors.
A pulse induction or, "PI" metal detector, sends out hundreds of electric pulses-per-second, rather than thousands of radio waves. While PI metal detectors do not have the ability to discriminate between different types of metal, their powerful pulses go much deeper than the VLF signal, and eliminate the problem of mineral conductivity. A pulse induction detector measures the decay rate of the electronic pulses it sends out, and looks for anomalies. The strong electronic pulse is not conducted by the salt in the water or the iron in the black sands. Think of a Navy ship "pinging" with its sonar for an enemy submarine. If there is nothing in the water the "ping" just continues on and fades out at the same measured rate. If the submarine is there, the signal decay is interrupted and bounces back to the sonar operator on the ship.
Most successful ocean-beach detectorists, own both types of detector. The land-based VLF unit is preferred in the dry sand blanket area because you can use discrimination to knock out iron and still achieve superior depth without loss of stability. The pulse induction machine is used on the wet ocean- and black- sands, as well as in the surf.
Beach and Water Hunting Equipment
Sand Scoop - Whether hunting fresh- or salt- water beaches, you need the right equipment to recover your targets. A good beach or sand scoop is a must. Choose your scoop based on the types of beaches you will be hunting, and the area of the beach. Generally, a long-handled large capacity sand scoop is desirable in the water. Aircraft-grade aluminum and stainless steel scoops come in a variety of shapes, lengths, weights, and prices. In the dry sand, a short-handled scoop is usually faster and easier to use. Do not buy a cheap scoop. This piece of equipment is essential - and just as important to your success as the metal detector you choose.
Finds Pouch - You will need a pouch to put your finds in. An inexpensive cloth nail pouch works great on the beach, but you will need something a bit more substantial for your wet sand and water finds. Large, open mesh, multi-pocket belt pouches with Velcro closures are ideal for the water. They allow the sand and water to rinse out, and secure your finds so they are not lost in the surf - again!
Read the rest here http://www.terrysoloman.com/id18.html
Thanks
Good information from all, thanks. I spoke to Marcus over at Hollands Brook and he answered some questions for me also. Nice guy. So, I have come to find out that I can't have my cake and eat it too...go figure. For my budget I was steered in the direction of the F2 by Marcus and this forum. I will have to stay away from the wet sand but I think I'm ok with that...like I said I can't expect a cadillac for the price of an oldsmobile. Thanks!
Good information from all, thanks. I spoke to Marcus over at Hollands Brook and he answered some questions for me also. Nice guy. So, I have come to find out that I can't have my cake and eat it too...go figure. For my budget I was steered in the direction of the F2 by Marcus and this forum. I will have to stay away from the wet sand but I think I'm ok with that...like I said I can't expect a cadillac for the price of an oldsmobile. Thanks!
beest
Elite Member
If you've got the F2 then try how far you can put your sensativity back without losing to much depth.
With my fisher (higher type) i can walk the wet sand with the sens back and sometimes ignore a false signal, and then stil can hunt.
With my fisher (higher type) i can walk the wet sand with the sens back and sometimes ignore a false signal, and then stil can hunt.
gman
Senior Member
You could look for a used CZ
Some of them are rain proof
Around 400ish , maybe less if your lucky
Great beach machine.
Some of them are rain proof
Around 400ish , maybe less if your lucky
Great beach machine.
badgerd
Full Member
I've seen a few 1280x for the $350 used range (a little lower or higher) and I've seen people do pretty well on the beaches here in VA. There's not many swinging them here, but it may be an option for the price.
I like my F2 but haven't had it on the beach... I did get my AT Pro for around $400 refurbished and used it until I got the Excal II (saved for a while on that one...)
Good Luck and HH!
I like my F2 but haven't had it on the beach... I did get my AT Pro for around $400 refurbished and used it until I got the Excal II (saved for a while on that one...)
Good Luck and HH!
Dirtfishin
Elite Member
Terry,that was well said. All new people starting should have to read this bit of great information. To set them in the right direction. It sure could've helped me. Thank's for you time.
