A pinpointer that accepts rechargeable batteries?

I have a TRX 9 volt or aa batteries I only use lithium ion aa batteries 4.2 volt charger an batteries 6 bucks e-bay going on 6 years now only charge 3 times a year the batteries last and last .
As to the danger of the batts give 10 people a loaded pistol that never had a gun and see what will happen .
The batteries are safe you carry the most dangerous lithium battery with you everyday pouch type lithium battery it has a bms to protect it from most stupid thing people subject to it .
 
I don't know why people always do Depth tests with pinpointers and use that as a selling point. The whole idea, as I understand it, is to pinpoint the target in the hole. If the pinpointer is locating a target, in a hole, 4"+ away, that makes it harder for me to locate it. It's the metal detector's job to locate a target, and then, the pinpointer is used to find really small targets that are hard to see. I want to know when I'm, at most, 2" from my target. Any further away and I have to dig a lot deeper. When I find a target with my metal detector, I manually pinpoint it by going, in a circle, around the target, and, if it's really small, I'll use the pinpointer feature of the detector to narrow down the search area even more; also, I use the depth gauge to estimate how deep to dig. I then dig my hole, and, if needed, I break out the pinpointer to find the target. I think the more important thing, for a pinpointer, is being able to pick up very small items, and gold, and having a discrimination feature that can differentiate ferrous from non-ferrous targets.
 
I don't know why people always do Depth tests with pinpointers and use that as a selling point. The whole idea, as I understand it, is to pinpoint the target in the hole. If the pinpointer is locating a target, in a hole, 4"+ away, that makes it harder for me to locate it. It's the metal detector's job to locate a target, and then, the pinpointer is used to find really small targets that are hard to see. I want to know when I'm, at most, 2" from my target. Any further away and I have to dig a lot deeper. When I find a target with my metal detector, I manually pinpoint it by going, in a circle, around the target, and, if it's really small, I'll use the pinpointer feature of the detector to narrow down the search area even more; also, I use the depth gauge to estimate how deep to dig. I then dig my hole, and, if needed, I break out the pinpointer to find the target. I think the more important thing, for a pinpointer, is being able to pick up very small items, and gold, and having a discrimination feature that can differentiate ferrous from non-ferrous targets.
A handheld pinpointer can be special, "pre-dig" and saves time and physical energy. I like depth tests on pin pointers. All of my pointers hit solid at 3 inches. Pin pointers are indispensable in my opinion. You'll dig the first hole quick it the pointer sees it pre-dig.

If it were me, I would spend good money on a pointer, and not even look back. I am a dedicated coin and jewelry guy.
 
I don't know why people always do Depth tests with pinpointers and use that as a selling point. The whole idea, as I understand it, is to pinpoint the target in the hole. If the pinpointer is locating a target, in a hole, 4"+ away, that makes it harder for me to locate it. It's the metal detector's job to locate a target, and then, the pinpointer is used to find really small targets that are hard to see. I want to know when I'm, at most, 2" from my target. Any further away and I have to dig a lot deeper. When I find a target with my metal detector, I manually pinpoint it by going, in a circle, around the target, and, if it's really small, I'll use the pinpointer feature of the detector to narrow down the search area even more; also, I use the depth gauge to estimate how deep to dig. I then dig my hole, and, if needed, I break out the pinpointer to find the target. I think the more important thing, for a pinpointer, is being able to pick up very small items, and gold, and having a discrimination feature that can differentiate ferrous from non-ferrous targets.
TRX will hit most coins to 4 inches saves time getting these shallow targets out . Way better than trying to pinpoint a target with a 11 inch coil in a target rich environment . sube
 
A handheld pinpointer can be special, "pre-dig" and saves time and physical energy. I like depth tests on pin pointers. All of my pointers hit solid at 3 inches. Pin pointers are indispensable in my opinion. You'll dig the first hole quick it the pointer sees it pre-dig.

If it were me, I would spend good money on a pointer, and not even look back. I am a dedicated coin and jewelry guy.
I'm not arguing against using a pinpointer, just that people, in my opinion, put too much emphasis on depth, over the ability to pick up super small items. If my detector tells me that the item is shallow, I will break out my pinpointer and see if it's near the surface; sometimes the items is right on top of the ground or you can get the item out with your finger. I find coins as well, and it's my preferred find. I prefer a pinpointer tell me when I'm no more that 2-3" from my target. If a pinpointer detects my target 6" away, that isn't very helpful to me, as I will need to dig much deeper to find it. Also, that leads to the question of, "Do I use my T-shovel or my trowel. It all depends on how far away my target is. So, basically, my point is, for me at least, too much depth can be an issue, and a pinpointer is exactly what it's name and function implies. I have my metal detector for depth, my pinpointer for accurately finding my target. If others prefer more depth, that's fine. I just see things a bit differently I suppose.
 
I'm not looking for the best, but if I wanted something better I'd probably go with the Quest Xpointer Max. It was really impressive, but almost 2x the cost of the Quest Xpointer II.
I know that it's not so expensive is $. It even in my currency is not so high.
It have a good sense to low conductive trgt, auto On Auto off while operating. Connect and settings to app with smartphone.
As for me I don't use pinpointer at all, but I have One. I just see the discussions in my local groups. And usually the choice between XP and sphinx. Sphinx 2 and 3 very interesting and quality.
 
I don't know why people always do Depth tests with pinpointers and use that as a selling point. The whole idea, as I understand it, is to pinpoint the target in the hole. If the pinpointer is locating a target, in a hole, 4"+ away, that makes it harder for me to locate it. It's the metal detector's job to locate a target, and then, the pinpointer is used to find really small targets that are hard to see. I want to know when I'm, at most, 2" from my target. Any further away and I have to dig a lot deeper. When I find a target with my metal detector, I manually pinpoint it by going, in a circle, around the target, and, if it's really small, I'll use the pinpointer feature of the detector to narrow down the search area even more; also, I use the depth gauge to estimate how deep to dig. I then dig my hole, and, if needed, I break out the pinpointer to find the target. I think the more important thing, for a pinpointer, is being able to pick up very small items, and gold, and having a discrimination feature that can differentiate ferrous from non-ferrous targets.

TRX will hit most coins to 4 inches saves time getting these shallow targets out . Way better than trying to pinpoint a target with a 11 inch coil in a target rich environment . sube

What sube said. The TRX pointer gives a mild chirp or slow beeping when passing over a 4" coin, and you can literally pinpoint where to dig and have a good idea just how deep before ever making a hole. I prefer to make a small hole for a cleaner extraction, so it works well for my hunting style. Depth was at the top of my list when pinointer shopping. The shallower the coin, the faster it beeps, up until making contact when it is almost a solid tone of machine-gun rapid beeps. Having the extra detection depth does not hamper precise pinpointing. Detuning is one button tap away if you are very close to a large signal and need to reduce sensitivity to narrow down the direction. Through it's settings you can choose several power levels, I think I have mine one step down from maximum, since the max seemed a bit prone to random falsing. It can be set even lower if you prefer much shorter range, but once it is stable, more depth is only a plus in my book.
 
What sube said. The TRX pointer gives a mild chirp or slow beeping when passing over a 4" coin, and you can literally pinpoint where to dig and have a good idea just how deep before ever making a hole.

I have read many good things about the TRX, but those are DoDo birds now. No longer made, difficult or impossible to find as NOS on any store shelves and used ones are obnoxiously expensive. OF COURSE I WANT ONE... just not in the cards, mostly due to the simple fact that I KNOW myself. If I buy one and like it, then I would be compelled to purchase a second or third one for the inevitable day that the one I am using dies and I would need to replace it. That game could get pricey and time consuming all by itself.

with that said, Sorthious, keep us informed of how your choice ends up working out for you. We are in the same boat in a lot of ways (gear, the way we think about certain aspects of this hobby, etc) so I am definitely interested in your findings about this.
 
TRX will hit most coins to 4 inches saves time getting these shallow targets out . Way better than trying to pinpoint a target with a 11 inch coil in a target rich environment . sube
I do the same with my trx. And just use 9V one or two a summer usually.
 
@TorqueMaster , yah, my current Kuman pinpointer has 3-tones for proximity to target. Rather than bend down, I have back issues, I use my Elite's depth gauge to get an approximate depth, and it's pinpointer function to find the exact location. Then, I dig. Most times I dig, the target will be at the bottom of the plug or within the plug itself. The deeper the target, the harder this gets to dig a precise depth. I'm getting better at it though!

I have read many good things about the TRX, but those are DoDo birds now. No longer made, difficult or impossible to find as NOS on any store shelves and used ones are obnoxiously expensive. OF COURSE I WANT ONE... just not in the cards, mostly due to the simple fact that I KNOW myself. If I buy one and like it, then I would be compelled to purchase a second or third one for the inevitable day that the one I am using dies and I would need to replace it. That game could get pricey and time consuming all by itself.

with that said, Sorthious, keep us informed of how your choice ends up working out for you. We are in the same boat in a lot of ways (gear, the way we think about certain aspects of this hobby, etc) so I am definitely interested in your findings about this.
I just ordered the Quest Xpointer II; $71U.S. It has a decent amount of features, is fully waterproof up to 16', and is USB rechargeable. It's not as good as the Quest Xpointer Max; $135, but that was nearly double the price. I think the Xpointer Max is a really awesome pinpointer, which has discrimination on it, maybe I'll get something like that in the future. The Xpointer II seems good enough. First thing I want to do is test to ensure it's waterproof. I've read too many reviews where people have bought pinpointers, and found out, way too late, that it wasn't fully waterproof. The people don't water hunt often and don't ever test the waterproof capabilities out until the Return Window has long passed. Anyway, thanks everyone for the great advice!
 
I can, just as easily, carry backup 9v rechargeable batteries with me, and swap them out if they die; just as you do with Alkaline batteries. Alkaline batteries have acid in them and, if left in a device, over time, they tend to leak and can ruin your device. Lithium batteries rarely do anything like this, and they have no acid in them. The temperatures required to cause thermal runaway are pretty high, something like 130/40degrees. This can also happen, as you pointed out, in Alkaline batteries. I don't store batteries in my shed, car, or garage, so that won't be an issue. Besides, the example you posted is an extremely rare incident; millions of people use Lithium batteries with no issues at all. I'll be getting an IP 68/9 pinpointer, so, leaking shouldn't be an issue. As with any product, there are always going to be outlier cases that show the worst case scenarios, or the consequences of improper product usage. Thanks for your input!
Yes, you can very well do the same as long as you have a rechargeable backup battery. But what you call "acid" it is different than the one used in lead- acid batteries. Alkaline batteries incorporate a semi-solid or paste electrolyte. Some batteries have a nearly dry electrolyte, too (dry-cell batteries). But don't believe for a minute that lithium batteries have an electrolyte that won't leak. All batteries, regardless of kind, incorporate an electrolyte. Lead-acid batteries have a liquid electrolyte, some other batteries have a "paste sort" of electrolyte, while other batteries have a nearly dry electrolyte.

I do agree with you that most people use numerous lithium batteries each day. We have laptops, cameras, instruments of all kinds, and on...and on. But that is not what I referred to in my previous post. The main advantage of lithium 9V battery, rechargeable or not, is that you can pack more energy into it than a 9V alkaline battery. In this case you can use the pinpointer for a longer period of time than if using an alkaline 9V battery. The main points I was trying to make are as follows:

a. I prefer to use a 9V alkaline battery in my pinpoints, over any rechargeable battery. The reason for this is that if the battery dies it should not take me hours to find another 9V battery. I just don't want to depend on a battery that requires several hour to charge.

b. I am not going to disagree with you about your choice of batteries. However, every battery we use has safety instructions, and I am very aware about how lithium reacts to high temperatures, and when lithium is exposed to water.

By the way, this is not directed to you (link below), but to anybody in this forum who is interested in know about what can cause the average lithium or any other battery we use each day to leak:
 
Last edited:
A used carrot with a rechargeable 9V would be my choice on a budget. I’ve seen them as low as $70.

I have this one and it works fine.

IMG_8608.jpeg
 
I use a Garrett Carrot. Uses 9v batts, so I bought a battery charger that charges 8 AAs and a single 9v. My 9v rechargeable batteries are great. I always have one in my pinpointer and at least one spare in the truck. I have some small containers to keep my batteries in. Oh yeah, this charger requires 110v but I can plug that into my truck console so I'm good.

As for the 9V battery: it looks just like a normal 9V alkaline. No charge port. It just fits in this charger - mating to the opposite contacts in the charger itself. I also bought a 16-battery charger b/c my trail cams use 12 each.. yikes.

20250308_120410.jpg
 
I know the Thread Poster will not go this route but Detectorpro Uniprobe is the Cat's Meow. It should put regular Pinpointers out of business, and yes it does use a Rechargeable 9V battery.
 
Could a Narrow AI be trained to greatly improve the odds of digging good targets versus bad. Silver and gold U.S. coins would probably be the easiest to train an AI on. They have trained AI's to recreate images and text by being trained on brain scans. Participants looked at images while having a brain scan. They were then shown a random image that was not included in the original images and the AI recreated it digitally based on what it was taught. The AI did very well at reproducing what the participant was looking at. They have trained an AI on the radio waves used in WIFI access points to actually produce an image of what's in the room. This includes furniture as well as people. Basically turning the WiFi AP into a camera. We are just in the infancy of AI capabilities. As AI gets cheaper and better I can see it being possible for detector companies to take advantage.

I know detectors can come up with duplicate I.D.'s and tones for both junk targets and good targets. It seems to me it should be entirely possible to train an AI to make finer grained interpretations than our present detectors do. Especially when focused on known items of a certain size and conductivity.

I use a Garrett Carrot. Uses 9v batts, so I bought a battery charger that charges 8 AAs and a single 9v. My 9v rechargeable batteries are great. I always have one in my pinpointer and at least one spare in the truck. I have some small containers to keep my batteries in. Oh yeah, this charger requires 110v but I can plug that into my truck console so I'm good.

As for the 9V battery: it looks just like a normal 9V alkaline. No charge port. It just fits in this charger - mating to the opposite contacts in the charger itself. I also bought a 16-battery charger b/c my trail cams use 12 each.. yikes.

View attachment 609443
I had bought a cheaper brand of pinpointer, only to find that the Tenergy 9v battery wouldn't fit into the battery compartment. The problem is that Rechargeable batteries tend to be bigger, mainly width-wise, than standard Alkaline batteries. Many manufacturers don't take this fact into account, and don't have the room to accomodate a rechargeable. Anyway, I ended up purchasing a XPointer Quest II Pinpointer, and have been happy with it so far. It uses an internal rechargeable battery, and I get around 14hours of usage per charge, which is more than enough for me. I paid under $100U.S for it, and bought it instead of the Xpointer Max, which at the time was around $150.00U.S. It had more features and LED's to determine ferrous from non-ferrous, but was rather pricey to me. Anyway, if I decide, in the future, to upgrade, I will definitely be getting the Xpointer Max. If it's as good as the Xpointer II, it will be worth it.
 
Back
Top Bottom