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  #41  
Old 01-10-2012, 11:08 PM
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You're the man, Husker. You put us all to shame. I hope that the collective wisdom here can inspire a solution that works for you and anyone else that can benefit from it.
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  #42  
Old 01-10-2012, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtdigger88 View Post
I'm assuming you meant you wouldn't want one that big. The construction of it can be as simple as a round or square piece of pipe that is hollow, and have a slot machined thru two opposing walls, whatever digger you are planning on using will need a single hole drilled thru it for a pin the will allow the outer to guide up and down the handle. As far as the end of the pipe just have a cap welded over the end to close it up. Again, this idea would be the simpliest to have made up. The real dilemana will be how to figure out what length to make the overall thing, as this design will not allow to change it. I have another concept to attach, based on the siding weight idea, and it would be more adjustable which would be a great help in setting it up to what works best for you.
I really like this design. My son is quite accomplished at welding (for a senior in high school), and I think we might give this a try. I like the idea of the bottom striker plate being adjustable. then I could experiment with the setting and see which height requires the least work to drive it in. You don't think that would be a point of weakness after repeated use, do you? I'm planning on doing a lot of digging this spring and summer.

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  #43  
Old 01-10-2012, 11:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskerfan72 View Post
I really like this design. My son is quite accomplished at welding (for a senior in high school), and I think we might give this a try. I like the idea of the bottom striker plate being adjustable. then I could experiment with the setting and see which height requires the least work to drive it in. You don't think that would be a point of weakness after repeated use, do you? I'm planning on doing a lot of digging this spring and summer.
I don't know if the handles for the digger you have in mind to use (sounds like the Predator Raven 25 is the one you want) is hollow or solid. I just thought it was solid. If not I don't think it would be too much of a worry. I would suggest using a proper fitting shoulder bolt with a lock nut instead of a cotter pin type when-ever you finalize the height you want for the bottom plate. Keep in mind that in order to make the tool you'll have to cut off any t-handle that comes on it as you need to make the components (bottom plate, weight, top plate) over the end of it, and them maybe retro the t-handle to bolt back on, in case after you use this a month and find the weight is off just a bit it will leave it open for you to adjust that as well.

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  #44  
Old 01-11-2012, 05:06 PM
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I moved this thread to make it or fix it forum before it gets lost in general hobby...
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  #45  
Old 01-11-2012, 07:42 PM
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Here is a link to a lech modification ya might want to look at

http://forum.treasurenet.com/index.p...,434586.0.html
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  #46  
Old 01-11-2012, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
I moved this thread to make it or fix it forum before it gets lost in general hobby...
Thanks for moving this to the right forum. I got a ton of good feedback and ideas so far. I appreciate all of the help.

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  #47  
Old 01-11-2012, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Labyrinth View Post
Here is a link to a lech modification ya might want to look at

http://forum.treasurenet.com/index.p...,434586.0.html
I might give this a try, too. I'm waiting to hear back from Predator tools regarding some measurements on the Raven Model 25.

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  #48  
Old 01-11-2012, 10:33 PM
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it has me wanting to make the one i drew up just to see it work...

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  #49  
Old 01-12-2012, 12:54 PM
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I've talked to George Lesche at Predator Tools, and he's going to give it some thought, too. I've found that the handle on the Raven is 1", and the hole on a standard 5 lb. slide hamer is 5/8". I'm sure the slide hammer weight could be bored out, but that is probably a little more project than I want. That brings me back to dirtdigger88's better concept idea. That actually would be pretty easy. Beyond cutting the T-handle off, it would pretty much just be a solid tube with handles welded on, with maybe a little extra weight added on, if I understand it correctly. I forgot to ask if the handle of the Raven is solid or a tube, but I would assume it is a tube. Then it would be a simple matter to drill a hole through the slide and handle to pin it.

Weezbad, did you have a different idea for weights on your concept? I still like that idea, and I think it could be made variable, but I wasn't coming up with another idea for weights.

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  #50  
Old 01-12-2012, 05:52 PM
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i would cut off the blade and use a solid shaft. i like the thick blade on the tool you showed but i would likely just make or use one from a shovel. the weight could be a tube with two pieces of flat plate stock welded to it. i would build it just like the picture. adjustable stops would shear or elongate the through holes unless a tapered pin or interference fit through bolt was used. 5/16 bolt press fitted into a .311 hole. or the stop welded to the shaft (preferable)

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  #51  
Old 01-12-2012, 09:25 PM
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with a blade attached this would probably do the trick. no further mod would be necessary IMHO
cut a slot in the wide tube part weld in a blade of choice...start digging.

from the seated position w/o blade.

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  #52  
Old 01-22-2012, 07:39 PM
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Husker,

Can you give us an update on what you have so far.I'm really interested in keeping you detecting.Thanks.Ken


PS You are also my hero.

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  #53  
Old 01-22-2012, 08:53 PM
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Have not read all the post but what about a slide hammer with a ground shark or Lesche head? You could have someone weld it up... Just put a plate to have it slam against to drive it in. The same way a post driver works.

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  #54  
Old 01-23-2012, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xaquin View Post
Could you maybe use a T Handle sampson? It may not self drive, but you wouldn't have to bend over as far, and it's sharp and serrated.
I was going to suggest this, but... with a slight modification. Get a ball handled sampson shovel and find yourself a 3 lb or 5 lb weight (for bar bells) at the local fitness place that has a large enough diameter hole to slide over the ball handle of the shovel. This way no force is required from you pushing, just drop the weight and it hits the shovel head into the ground. Having a net/rope around the weight would allow for you to pull it back up.

It is rather crude, but it would work I believe. Have you thought about adding a cushion like memory foam or something to your arsenal to take the pressure off your side when leaning over the chair? Might make a big difference.
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  #55  
Old 02-01-2012, 09:51 PM
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a prototype i made this evening.. The blade needs to be thinner, but it works pretty well. the thinner blade will make it penetrate a lot easier.The handle is removable at the moment and could remain so. once the hole is cut you could simply slide on a pipe handle and pry it out.




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Last edited by Weezbad; 02-01-2012 at 09:59 PM.
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  #56  
Old 02-01-2012, 11:56 PM
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Default A good start for you

http://www.amazon.com/Bond-LH014-Tro...8158371&sr=1-2 Check this limk out they have a more expensive model I bought the #LH014 2 days ago its pretty solid, the more expensive one might be even better???

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  #57  
Old 02-02-2012, 11:02 PM
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That is awesome. Could the slide hammer be further up the handle, or do you think having it up on the handle would reduce the force the hammer would exert on the blade? The width looks okay to me. I wouldn't want it too thin. I want to cut and pop a big plug. Thanks a lot for working on this. I really could have used that today. I had to leave a solid repeatable 13-45 in the ground because I couldn't reach any deeper today. I was also worried about rolling into the hole since it was dark. I'll leave it for a sunny day and a bigger digger (or a cute little assistant!)

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  #58  
Old 02-02-2012, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskerfan72 View Post
That is awesome. Could the slide hammer be further up the handle, or do you think having it up on the handle would reduce the force the hammer would exert on the blade? The width looks okay to me. I wouldn't want it too thin. I want to cut and pop a big plug. Thanks a lot for working on this. I really could have used that today. I had to leave a solid repeatable 13-45 in the ground because I couldn't reach any deeper today. I was also worried about rolling into the hole since it was dark. I'll leave it for a sunny day and a bigger digger (or a cute little assistant!)
the slide hammer could go be moved. really just put this tip on a pipe with a weight ..the problemn is it getting too heavy and cumbersome.

the width is fine but the thickness of the material 1/4 inch IIRC needs to be more like 1/8 tempered steel like the digger blade you showed earlier.

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  #59  
Old 02-02-2012, 11:45 PM
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First of all Husker you ARE a inspiration to all of us..keep it up my friend. Second, its truly amazing to see you all help out..wish I had the exp. as you all but its really great to see everyone get together like a family!!!

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  #60  
Old 02-03-2012, 12:02 AM
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I honestly don't think weight will be an issue. I do 90 curls a night with a 45 lb. dumbbell. With only one arm working, I push to keep it as strong as possible. I agree also with the blade needing to be a thicker steel. I might send your pics to George Lesche and see what he thinks. He might want to buy your design!

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