repairing coil ear on sepro coil

[Max-VaBeach-Va]

i need advice on repairing one stock coil ear for my sepro.

thanks

added battery info. for info. only.
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4 min. video with pics
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4u9Yczh9TXE

[Max-VaBeach-Va]

i need advice on repairing one stock coil ear for my sepro.

thanks

added battery info. for info. only.
.
.
.
.
.
4 min. video with pics
.
.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4u9Yczh9TXE

[Hotrod Tom]

I don't know about the JB weld I think once it cures it's not flexible and will crack when you tighten the coil bolt. There is an automotive two part epoxy that is used to glue door skins onto a door during replacement so there is no need to weld.You can find it at any Auto Body Supply.I will see if I can find out more about it.

[carpe diggum]

I was thinking epoxy and a fiberglass washer..

[Hotrod Tom]

I just searched Door Skin Epoxy and found this.It says it works on flexible and rigid plastic so it my help you out.You need a special gun to work with the tubes and mixing applicator or you can just cut the two tubes open and mix by hand.I think this may be better than JB weld.I would try to find a plastisol washer to epoxy onto the outside of the tab for added strength.Good Luck with the repair.

Norton 06419 SpeedGrip Metal Door Skin Bond Adhesive, 45 Minute, 220ml
[NOR-06419]
Item # * NOR-06419
Unit Of Measure : * EA
MPN : * 63642506419

Retail Price: $54.42*
Your Price: $32.34
You Save: $22.08*(40.6%)
Description
Specifications
MSDS

Product Specifications. EMI Item # * NOR-06419
Item Type Adhesive
Product Type Panel Bonding
Tube Size (ml) 220
For Bonding / Repairing Steel, Aluminum, Flexible, Semi-Rigid, Rigid Plastic, Fiberglass
Work Time (Minutes) * 45
Clamp Time (Minutes) * 90
Cure Time (Hours) * 8
Material Acrylic
Color Green
Mixing Ratio 2:1
Brand Norton Automotive Aftermarket
Mfg Item*# * 63642506419

[Crumble]

Carbon cloth and epoxy... is how I would fix it. Apply epoxy to the top edge to bring it back close to original thickness and to make it flat instead of tapered, then stick a doughnut of carbon cloth to the epoxy, let that dry, then add a thin layer of epoxy over the carbon cloth. smooth the final layer of epoxy flat before it dries.. Pretty much making carbon fiber. Use slow drying epoxy which dries harder than fast drying epoxy. Be sure to sand the ear a bit first to give epoxy something to stick to.

[Cupajo]

Shoe Goop----Amazing stuff. This repair has many hours of hard use on it and shows no sign of failure.

I shimmed the heal and toes of the bracket with a bit of thin rubber washer to allow the glue to get underneath.

Allowed to set 24 hours and got back in the game!!

The brace I started using in the '80s so I can steady myself with my coil rod, but some of these ears are not strong enough.

The plastic bracket could be used to reenforce both ears with a longer bolt.

I cut it out of a nylon cutting board from a discount store. Very strong and easy to work with.

Notice the pad of the same plastic I Gooped under the end of the brace on the surface of the coil to protect it.

You may want to test the glue on a small part of the ear first, but I have used it several times with no regrets. (Just never on a Minlab Machine)

GL&HH friend,

CJ

[Cupajo]

I forgot to mention the lower shaft which is solid nylon rod from an industrial supply company and is darn near indestructable! That is why there are plastic and rubber washers combined to "make it fit" as I already had this rod shaped to fit another machine when I decided to use it on the DF.

After breaking several "plastic" rods I switched to nylon and never broke another one.

Regards,

CJ

[Hotrod Tom]

Originally Posted by Aka Nameless

Carbon cloth and epoxy... is how I would fix it. Apply epoxy to the top edge to bring it back close to original thickness and to make it flat instead of tapered, then stick a doughnut of carbon cloth to the epoxy, let that dry, then add a thin layer of epoxy over the carbon cloth. smooth the final layer of epoxy flat before it dries.. Pretty much making carbon fiber. Use slow drying epoxy which dries harder than fast drying epoxy. Be sure to sand the ear a bit first to give epoxy something to stick to.

Thats a great idea with the Carbon cloth.I was trying to think of something with fibers to help keep the epoxy from cracking.Where did you get the cloth?

[Bromly]

Hi Max


Max I'd try getting some 1/8" thick plastic. cut to fit with your 1/4" hole and also let it rest on the coil, then shoe-goo it. I used to race RC nitro boats, and that shoe-goo can stand up to 70mph runs all summer long.It really is some amazing stuff.

BTW I got those gel earmuffs, thanks for the tip

Good Luck

Ken

[Jerry-Wi]

Bondo makes a pickup truck bed liner that is indestructible and remains flexible. However it is expensive.

Jerry

[Max-VaBeach-Va]

looks ok ....will test it soon in the surfzone.

thanks all
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[Cupajo]

Does the Epoxy hold the plastic bracket you made alright?

Shoe Goop is amazingly strong and waterproof for these sorts of repairs and hasn't failed me yet.

Regards,

CJ

[Cfmct]

Good Job CJ and Max... I should have done that with my DF when I broke off a ear... I repair alot of things with Shoe Goop and its the best