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#1
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Now that I've finally located my shipment...
![]() I got one torn apart (bought a few to play with), and started to make a plan to what I wanted to do to the 1st one. Here's what I'm gonna "try": Got some of the guts cut-out, removed the LED wand light, and removed the wand. I want to make this to mount on the detector shaft, downward from the detectors control box, then have the wand on a cable, independent of the PP box. I notched the circuit board to clear the nut for the cable gland I'll run the cable through to reconnect the wand to the box. I'm thinking possibly a phone handset cord between the two. ![]() The wand, which I have an idea on adapting to also accept a cable gland as well, and extend its reach by 4-5" (making it about 10" excluding the gland), but will play that by ear during assembly. ![]() I'll also be replacing the switch, with a toggle type "ON", since it would be too inconvenient to have to push a momentary switch on a detector mounted PP. ![]() This one will just use the speaker to signal, unless I can find a cord with enough conductors, I might add the vibrating motor, and possibly even a momentary switch into the wand. I could still maybe add a switch to choose between vibrate and speaker modes for target signal. Untouched on the left, just for comparison. ![]() Hoping to maybe round-up some parts/material tomorrow, and will update as things progress. |
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#2
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You could use CAT 5 or 5E for the cable. It's got enough conductors already in pairs too! Otherwise, I'd suggest a old printer cable (the 25 pin ones from back in the day)... they're also shielded, some are coiled, and you could probably find a good assortment of cables at the local thrift shop. The one I frequent has a 55 gallon of "cables" for .25 each.
Just some thoughts... I'd hope for a nice coiled cable, but they're hard enough to find for headphones let alone an 8 conductor or so... I can't wait to see what happens! __________________ |
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#3
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Quote:
![]() Don't set your expectations too high
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#4
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Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]() HH \_
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#5
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Dude you need to roll the RV over closer to the east coast towards the summer. We can hook up with some detecting and some modding. Good work
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#6
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Get yourself a Garrett Pro pointer and get outside and hunt, and stop messing around with that HF junk. The investment will pay for itself, believe me...
God Bless... __________________ |
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#7
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Interesting mod. Would like to see the finished product.
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#8
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I love mods, anyone thought about a way to put a hi power LED emitter on a detector? Something that makes the tool usable in dark conditions, and I don't mean suct taping a maglight either.
i used to build LED flashlights ten years ago, actually had a mail order business in it, now I'm hooked on the MD bug. Also I make my own LED lamps for my motorcycles. I would propose a variable light output light both for spread like a ring down and a small flood forward. If metallic conductors such as even an LED emitter is an issue then why not use some large diameter fiber optics? I use them for illuminating very small scale lights on my models. |
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#9
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Quote:
Quote:
![]() Since I need parts, I did get another one done with a vibrating motor, and a switch to cut the speaker on/off. I also did come-up with a way to replace the switch, which everyone says is the biggest problem with these, that reuses the same button configuration. It requires drilling a hole into the wand tube to allow the back of the switch to protrude into it. Stock/Left----------Modified/Right ![]() It comes with one, and actually a fairly bright one. |
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#10
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Got some parts today, and just FYI, the wand is the same OD as 1/2" CPVC. So I used a 1/2"X3/4" reducing coupling on the end of the wand, then stepped up to a piece of 3/4" CPVC for easier grip, plus room inside for the switch body and the vibrating motor.
Got 2 options on cord (between wand and box), Cat5, and a phone cord (to handset). The Cat5 gives me enough conductors (8) to mount a momentary button on the wand, as well the vibrating motor. ![]() Phone cord (coiled) is only 4 conductor, which is how many I need just to reconnect the wiring to the wand, so slightly shorter handle added to wand, and no switch/vibrating motor. ![]() Wand with momentary on button switch ![]() ![]() ![]() Not much done, other than what you see here. Still trying to see which route I want to go. Starting to lean towards the straight cable, so I can add the extra features. |
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#11
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That thing looks awesome!
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#12
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Lookin good! I wanted to do the same "mod" a while ago but couldn't find the stuff I needed to make it look good... duct tape is ok but...
What's your source for the cable strain relief nuts and are they water-resistant? I can't wait to see what's next! __________________ |
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#13
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Quote:
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#14
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THAT looks PRETTY DAMN AWESOME!!!
And you said earlier, "NOT to have too high expectations..." GOOD JOB DUDE!!! HH \_
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#15
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Good job. It looks excellent.
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#16
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Quote:
Thanks all! I'm still kicking-around ideas/thoughts before an actual assembly (on the one with the separated wand). I have done one with a new push-button switch, a vibrating motor, and a switch to turn the speaker on/off. Without too much tweaking, I'd noticed about 1.25" distance (to coin), from either tip, or sides of tip. I plan to actually use this one just to see how well it actually works while detecting. ![]() I'm still working on this one, (which is why there's a rubber band around it for pics). I moved the button switch to the opposite side. This removes the need to drill into the end of the wand tube, and also eliminates the interference with the switch which I put in the spot the LED light was (and removed). ![]() Where the switch initially came on it, which I'll fill-in when I'm done. You could fill-in, then re-drill and mount the switch back in this spot, I just didn't feel like fooling with filling the hole prior to re-wiring. ![]() You can see the toggle for the switch sticking out to the right of the wand, which is where the LED light was. I don't have the washer/nut on the switch since I still have things opened-up (again, just rubber-banded together for pics).
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#17
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I replaced the push button switch with a on off toggle. I then replaced the speaker with a red LED. Since I have headphones on I could never hear the buzz anyway.
Sorry for the blurry pics. Will get clearer ones later. __________________ |
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#18
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Lookin' GOOD, Gauntlet! I don't know how I didn't see this thread until today... You sure are classin' up the joint!
Excited to see what else you come up with for this - so far your mods have never failed to impress. I do like that coiled cable, too. I find the Cat5 I used is just too... unwieldy. It's often getting in my way. Kudos on your progress to date! V __________________ |
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#19
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You guys are crazy with modding the pin pointer. If I knew anything at all about electronics I would try some of these mods myself. I just don't trust myself to not completely break it. Hahaha. I have the Same pin pointer and liked it at first but now it's a pain in my arse and can't stand it.
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#20
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I think both cables (pictured) would be way too long for a detector mounted set-up, and a couple feet would be plenty of cable. Radio Shack wanted around $10 for the same phoe cord I got at Menards for $3
![]() I haven't done anything else on them, which is why no updates (but I will soon). Thanks! |
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