Day 2 on the F2! Have questions

rhendry17

Junior Member
Joined
May 21, 2012
Messages
55
Location
Jacksonville, FL
So I received my F2 yesterday afternoon and took it out for the evening. I live in a sub division that is still under construction and have some neighboring woods behind my house.

We didn't find anything of value the first go, mostly cans, tabs, some kind of a non magnetic rock, a small bicardi emblem and a small piece of gas piping.

Today I briefly scanned the same area and found a penny, and then tried a small park a few miles from the house and spent about 1 1/2 scanning around the pond and tot lot. I found several pennies in close proximity near the pond as soon as I started and then hit a wall. We kept pulling junk, tabs, bottle tops, and cans. Then when we switched to the tot lot we finished with several finds. Total for the day was .66 cent, one quarter, and oldest coin was a 1970 penny. Wife and I had a blast!

My question is on the signals I'm getting. For the most part I ran on nickel, dime, quarter only and discriminated everything else. Every time I found pennies it showed dime. I assume because zinc is rated right next to dime and I had zinc descriminated. The quarter find hit really nice and sat on 80. I could definitely tell it was a different detection then I had been getting. But I got so many signals for nickels which were junk, and a ton of quarter readings which were junk also.

Yesterday evening I had a lot of junk that read higher than quarter, in the upper 80s/90, so today I just passed those by. If I'm running with iron, foil, tab, and zinc on discrimination and still finding these things left and right why would I ever leave them on? Does anyone on here hunt with these features on?

Thanks for reading and helping!
 
As a newby, I'd run without discriminating to get the hang of the machine. If anything, discriminate against iron (that's how I detect with my F2). Congrats on the new MD and good luck in your searches!
 
I only discriminate out iron. A lot of smashed bottlecaps will read as quarters. Some pennies will bounce back and forth between zinc and dime. If it comes up as dime, then swing over the target from another direction. If it still reads dime it is most likely a dime. If the signal jumps around then it is probably a penny, but you won't know for sure until you dig it. Dug a 1923 Merc which was mostly dime but would occasionally drop to zinc. Most nickel signals from my experience are can slaw but you have to dig them all to find that nickel. Over time you will learn by how jumpy a signal is as to whether it is worth your time to dig it. Some people have more patience than others. Basically, you have to dig a lot of trash to find treasure with all detectors. If you discriminate out a lot of signals you will miss more 'good' stuff, too.
 
I would also suggest that every time that you get a strong loud signal, raise your coil 6-12". If the signal is still strong and loud, it's big junk like a soda can.....move on.
 
Guys, thanks for all your advice and quick replys. On the discrimination, maybe its just where I'm hunting but even with iron, foil, tab and zinc off my F2 is going non-stop. Perhaps this is because my first hunt was near home which obviously has been cultivated by machinery and lots of trash is inevitable. My second hunt was a small park that has a pond and isn't the cleanest of parks. So the amount of tabs, beer tops, etc that I was finding was in my opinion expected.

But If I were to turn off descrimination almost completely, and say run with everyone except iron wouldn't I just open myself up for more signals? I didn't dig half of what I was getting signals on, mostly skipped the nickels and everything that peaked above quarter but it just seems like with everything I discriminated I wouldn't have gotten as many signals.

Seemed like I got a nickel signal every two steps.
 
I understand your thinking. There have been times where I ignored all but the best signals since daylight was fading and I had a lot of ground to cover. You may have to choose a less trashy area to search if the false signals drive you crazy. But with every signal I skip over, or everything I notch out, I know I may be passing over something good somewhere. Jewelry can come in as any 'trashy' signal but I won't know unless I dig.
 
Try this. Scrim out everything but leave FOIL on. Are you bumping up your sens after machine is turned on? When it is first turned on its running about 75%. Try leaving it at that level instead of bumping it up to full and add on foil. This was first told to me by a Fisher tech as a way of increasing your chances at some goodies but reduce the junk readings. I have hit a lot of my rings/jewlery using this setting. Good Luck!
 
Today I briefly scanned the same area and found a penny, and then tried a small park a few miles from the house and spent about 1 1/2 scanning around the pond and tot lot. I found several pennies in close proximity near the pond as soon as I started and then hit a wall. We kept pulling junk, tabs, bottle tops, and cans. Then when we switched to the tot lot we finished with several finds. Total for the day was .66 cent, one quarter, and oldest coin was a 1970 penny. Wife and I had a blast!

Nice!
It's only just begun!


My question is on the signals I'm getting. For the most part I ran on nickel, dime, quarter only and discriminated everything else. Every time I found pennies it showed dime. I assume because zinc is rated right next to dime and I had zinc descriminated.

Don't think so.
Check those dates...most copper pennies from 1982 and earlier will show up about 70-71 and dime.
Zinc pennies can come in anywhere from 48-61.
Also, there usually is a slight difference in that high tone sound between a copper penny and a dime, but you are going to need many more hours digging a ton more of these to be able to hear it.


The quarter find hit really nice and sat on 80. I could definitely tell it was a different detection then I had been getting.

78-82 on most quarters, 82 most of the time, and you will eventually learn they sound different than other high tone penny dime or silver signals, too.


But I got so many signals for nickels which were junk,

Decent size pieces of can-slaw, and also several tabs will show up here, among other trash, but so will gold.


and a ton of quarter readings which were junk also.

This is rare if it is at those 78-82 numbers.
86 can be 2 quarters, 88 can be 3 quarters, high 80's or low 90s could be large coins like dollar coins or halves, but but as stated in that earlier post anything over 83 raise the coil and if you still get a loud solid signal it will usually be a big piece of metal like a big piece of iron or aluminum.
You can also hit the pinpoint button and move the coil over these type of signals.
If the lowest number you see on the bottom of the display stays there for more than an inch or so...not going to be a coin size object


Yesterday evening I had a lot of junk that read higher than quarter, in the upper 80s/90, so today I just passed those by.

A couple of things might be going on here.

1. You can get false high tone "ghost" signals from large pieces of metal up to a foot away from where that metal sits in the ground.
Those signals will never repeat in exactly the same place, however.
Moist ground will magnify this effect.

2. You actually do have some large pieces of metal under your coil.

3. Heavy EMI could also cause this, like hunting right near high power lines.


If I'm running with iron, foil, tab, and zinc on discrimination and still finding these things left and right why would I ever leave them on?

These are mostly ghost signals or junk, turn down your sense a bit and see if they go away at this site, some.
As you get better you will be able to tell which are good solid signals and which are bad when this happens.

If you disc out most of those segments, especially foil tabs and zinc, you will never find gold and a whole slew of other great stuff.



Does anyone on here hunt with these features on?

Since I started using the F2, I have rarely hunted with anything less then max sensitivity and mostly with only iron knocked out.
I learned to ignore all false signals and zero in only on the solid, repeating good ones.
You should see all the great stuff I have found at all of these levels, including a bunch of gold rings.



Thanks for reading and helping!

I live to serve.


Guys, thanks for all your advice and quick replys. On the discrimination, maybe its just where I'm hunting but even with iron, foil, tab and zinc off my F2 is going non-stop. Perhaps this is because my first hunt was near home which obviously has been cultivated by machinery and lots of trash is inevitable.

You could also have high EM near your house.

My second hunt was a small park that has a pond and isn't the cleanest of parks. So the amount of tabs, beer tops, etc that I was finding was in my opinion expected.

Common sense.

But If I were to turn off descrimination almost completely, and say run with everyone except iron wouldn't I just open myself up for more signals?

Tons more, good and bad, but unless all you're ever interested in finding is stuff that come in under that dime and quarter setting, this is something you will eventually need to do.

You know very little at this point, there is something called "The Language" that you will learn given enough time.
Understanding this language more and more will enable you to have better and better ideas of what you are really scanning and what is going on under that coil.
You know very little of this language right now, and we all dig trash no matter how good we get, but you will eventually know enough to dig less, and all of these tones you hear will make more sense.


I didn't dig half of what I was getting signals on, mostly skipped the nickels and everything that peaked above quarter but it just seems like with everything I discriminated I wouldn't have gotten as many signals.

Ghost signals from large pieces of metal can and will "bleed through" your disc settings from time to time.
EMI can make that thing go absolutely wonky.


Seemed like I got a nickel signal every two steps.

Tons of trash come in at that nickel signal, but there are ways to tell the difference.
Nickels can come in anywhere from 29-34, but most of the time 33 is usually a nickel..or a coin shaped compacted piece of foil, or a certain size piece of can, or a pull tab.

Here is a tip..a bit of that language thing I mentioned above.
Good signals like coins will usually stay solid in their tone, the numbers on the screen should be steady or jump no more than 2 at the most, (if there is no trash in the vicinity), and the depth bars on the right don't change.
When trash like odd shaped foil, can slaw or or pull tabs are under your coil, as you move that coil around over that trash, the numbers on your screen could be very jumpy, like 6 or 10 numbers, and look at the depth bars on the right side of the screen...they jump a bunch too.
It seems different parts of the coil try to lock on but can't, and those numbers and bars just usually jump on trash.
I used to dig a lot of these signals, sometimes I still do, but 99% of the time it has been trash.
Once in a while I can hear something solid in that tone and I dig these jumpy, iffy signals and find something good, but again, that is rare.

You are a newby and all of this confusion is normal.
Soon, after several hours of practice, you will laugh at all this stuff and also at some of these questions you asked in this thread.
Just keep swinging and digging and learning!
 
Thank you so much Digger! I will start making those adjustments. Does Rosetta Stone have a program for metal detecting? lol I definitely didn't realize just how in depth the language aspect goes. I originally assumed it was simply the pitch of the tone, but now Im seeing its a board depth that has a much wider range then I realized.

But that's one of the things that gravitated me into the spot. It's so complex, yet simple and fun. Finding a location, learning the history/best spots to target, learning your device/the language, tools/strategies, digging styles, what to bring along and what not to pack. Awesome sport!
 
Thank you so much Digger! I will start making those adjustments. Does Rosetta Stone have a program for metal detecting? lol I definitely didn't realize just how in depth the language aspect goes. I originally assumed it was simply the pitch of the tone, but now Im seeing its a board depth that has a much wider range then I realized.

But that's one of the things that gravitated me into the spot. It's so complex, yet simple and fun. Finding a location, learning the history/best spots to target, learning your device/the language, tools/strategies, digging styles, what to bring along and what not to pack. Awesome sport!

Great attitude.
Exactly what you need to do well in this hobby.

The best thing to do is get a tone, really listen, look at that screen and what is happening, dig up the target and remember and associate that tone and the screen info with that target.
What happens on that screen is also part of that language, and you can learn to tell just about as much about your target with weak or squeaky tones and jumpy crazy numbers and bars as you can with a solid tone and stable numbers and bars.
This is all part of that new language you are going to be learning.
It takes a bunch of digging and time to learn this language, but you will, and in this hobby it is still much fun while you are learning.

Also remember no machine is perfect and can tell you with 100% certainty what you are scanning...even if you are fluent in it's language.
Some of the best, most successful hunters we have on this forum are also the ones that dig some of the most trash.
 
Copper pennies will come up as a dime (normal).

Try this,

Hunt in all metal but only dig the high tones (coins and silver rings etc) for now.
Later on you can dig the med tones (foil, pull tabs, nickel and zinc=zinc penny, 5 cent and gold rings etc)
when the frustration levels come down. You don't even have to look
at the lcd screen just listen for the high tones.

These high tone targets will still have to pass a few tests before you
dig them,

test

1-The high tone target is repeatable on both the left and right sweep
of the swing. PASS

2-Turn 90 degress to the target and repeat step one. PASS

3-Check the width of the high tone target using the MDs pinpointer.
Hold the pinpointer button in and scan the target, the pinpointer
hum should fall off sharply on both sides of the target with a width
of 3/4 of an inch (coin size). PASS

4-Turn 90 degress to the target and repeat steps three. PASS

Note: If steps 3 and 4 result in a target with a width say of 6 inches
(deep pop can) I don't dig it.

These tips should get you a 90% good finds/10% trash screw cap finds.

Take care,
CDNsilver
 
CDN,

Your reply sparked a few other questions I have. 1. I noticed that the bulk of my tones were not registering on my left swings, only the right. What causes this? Is it my swing technique, speed of the swing, or the target itself?

Im also trying to trial and error my swing technique. I find myself picking up speed every few minutes when I get in a zone and stop thinking about it. Then I slow back down to a steady level speed. Im sure this will come in time.

2. Pinpointing, I know I have a lot to learn with this technique. Sometimes it seems to work, when I press and hold it will show a number and as I move the coil it around it will show anything from 2 to 11. But it hasn't seemed to pinpoint so to say, the object seems to be off a few inches. This could also be due to the size of the plug Im digging. I've been digging plugs about 5-6 inches in width. Maybe I should expand this. I'm using a hand trowel so thats why my plugs aren't large.

3. I'm using the 11" DD coil and it appears that the center of the coil is actually not the center of coil. What I mean is, it appears to me that the center of the coil is where the rod connects to the coil which is a few inches back of the actual center of the D's. Is this correct? Because my ears and eyes are telling me the tones are coming from that spot but maybe thats my minds perception and not the actual case.
 
CDN,

Your reply sparked a few other questions I have. 1. I noticed that the bulk of my tones were not registering on my left swings, only the right. What causes this? Is it my swing technique, speed of the swing, or the target itself?

Im also trying to trial and error my swing technique. I find myself picking up speed every few minutes when I get in a zone and stop thinking about it. Then I slow back down to a steady level speed. Im sure this will come in time.

2. Pinpointing, I know I have a lot to learn with this technique. Sometimes it seems to work, when I press and hold it will show a number and as I move the coil it around it will show anything from 2 to 11. But it hasn't seemed to pinpoint so to say, the object seems to be off a few inches. This could also be due to the size of the plug Im digging. I've been digging plugs about 5-6 inches in width. Maybe I should expand this. I'm using a hand trowel so thats why my plugs aren't large.

3. I'm using the 11" DD coil and it appears that the center of the coil is actually not the center of coil. What I mean is, it appears to me that the center of the coil is where the rod connects to the coil which is a few inches back of the actual center of the D's. Is this correct? Because my ears and eyes are telling me the tones are coming from that spot but maybe thats my minds perception and not the actual case.

1-The targets cause one sided signals (nails and iron, trash) sitting at
different angles in the ground on-end etc. I don't dig one sided signals,
These types of signals would FAIL the first test for sure. High tone targets like silver, copper,
brass and lead most of the time will have a solid lock on signal on both sides of the swing.

2-For pinpointing place your coil off to the side and hold the pinpointer
button in as you get closer to the target. The hum should get louder
as you get right over the target. Also your typical depth readings
on the lcd screen will look like this as you pass over the target and beyond and
then come back on the swing, 11 9 7 5 4 5 7 9 11 with 4 being 4 inches
and the center of the target. Also the F2 likes (more accurate) if you
pinpoint and extra inch or so above the ground.

Back to using the MDs pinpointer not for pinpointing or depth indication
but for target width indication.

Try this place a flattened pop can on the ground also a copper penny
on the ground. Pinpoint both targets and you will see how hum of
the pinpointer falls off sharply 3/4" for the coin but not the pop can 6". This
trick will save you from digging deep high tone pop cans, pipes and
large iron.

It will click soon it just takes time with the machine. But make sure
the high tone targets pass all the tests so you are not adding to the
trash pouch.

3-I think the 11 dd coil's center is at the back by the shaft and on the 8 inch
stock coil is right in the center of the concentric.

Any questions just post we will help you.

Take care,
CDNsilver
 
Thanks CDN,

I notice that sometimes when I i.d. a target, say a nickel reading 34, the display stays and if i keep swinging and keep walking it does not go away. If I hit pinpoint and release it goes back to searching for the next target. Why is this?
 
Thanks CDN,

I notice that sometimes when I i.d. a target, say a nickel reading 34, the display stays and if i keep swinging and keep walking it does not go away. If I hit pinpoint and release it goes back to searching for the next target. Why is this?

It is normal for the F2 and part of the design. No need to press the pinpoint,
the machine is still searching even know the last target is still displayed.
Run your digger over the coil when it does it and you will see it is still working
fine. I like this feature for when you are doing air tests or in the garden
test ground so you can see what the last posted target was.
 
Didn't realize you had the DD coil.

To pinpoint, there are a couple of ways.
Using the pinpoint button, start several inches away from the target and move sideways to the target.
When you get to the loudest tone...stop.
Turn the coil 90 degrees and scan side to side again.
At the point of the loudest tone, the target should be under the coil just north of where the rod connects to the coil.
I only do this on very deep targets, for most targets that are shallow, this works better and is much quicker.

Find the target in disc, no pinpoint tone needed, wiggle the coil keeping that tone in the center of the coil and pull back.
When the tone drops off, the target will be right near the tip of that coil in the center.
If it is 3 inches in depth or less, the target should be just behind or under the front of that coil, 4 inches or deeper, it should be just in front.

 
Digger,

I think that video just made a lightbulb go off. I have been misreading the detector. I've noticed that a lot of my holes end up having the target in the sidewall, north of the last direction I scanned.

Based on the video illustration, what I thought was a good signal was actually the detector telling me the target was solid, but getting away not getting closer. I was only focusing on the drop off in sound, and not enough on the full sound as well.

Thanks again for helping us beginners!
 
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