Myers Depot Metal Detectors

Using a Nickel to Calibrate Your Detector

Oh....So now we're trending toward the new texting abbreviations, a + means this and a - means that.....ugh !

Why can't we just be happy with the good old English language and learn it so that, for instance, we know the proper context in which to use "then" and "than" ? I see those switched all the time !

The intellectuals always seem to need something different to separate themselves from the ignorant lower class, like the ancient Egyptians and space Aliens did with their fancy hieroglyphics and other weird symbols that complicate and challenge our interpretation.

I'm done....can we try to stay with the original thread title and break with off-topic silliness....OK ? :grin:

ToddB64
 
bruinvikes said:
Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't you the one that asked what +1 meant earlier within this thread?
Click to expand...

Of course it was me ! I do have natural curiosity like everyone else and it was something I had never seen used before. Now I know.... it's just another piece of the new age texting language.....again, ugh !

ToddB64
 
Yeah, I thought about that "sleeping bear" when I wrote that post, but had to get it off my chest, trusting that most of the good members here could indulge me that one time and let it slide by without getting upset. I'm always fearful of saying anything to arouse the sleeping bear in someone out there and provoke a sharp retort. That's not what we really want on the "Friendly" Metal Detecting Forums.
 
How do you calibrate a metal detector, any help would be appreciated, I've never heard about calibrating as I'm still fairly new to detecting
 
CJW said:
How do you calibrate a metal detector, any help would be appreciated, I've never heard about calibrating as I'm still fairly new to detecting
Click to expand...

Just talking about a Tesoro model.
It has knobs and you can loosen the disc knob and set it so it points at a certain spot like where nickels disc out or zinc cents.

Otherwise all other calibrations on all brands are done at the factory.
 
All seriousness aside:roll: a nickel is used mainly for notch settings so those that use this feature will set the notch window for nickels as wide as possible to avoid missing them. One example, who never included it in their instruction book was the Tracker IV. By rotating the disc/tone knob from start to the right, the perfect tone splitter setting could be attained by stopping when a nickel gave a solid low tone. Then, nickels would give a low tone, old style tabs a split tone, and clad a high tone.
 
Those Minelab guys, such kidders.

I hope some one has answered this for you. Nickles are pretty close to gold. So if your looking for gold, use a nickle. The odds are you want to use a dime, as you will find more coins that way.
 
Air test on 48 gold rings- Small 14k ring to calibrate

While this isn't anything scientific, here is a sample of air testing 48 gold rings with the xterra 705. Foil range is 0 to 10 produced 28 gold rings- nickel square tab range is 12-14 produced 12 gold rings -- 16-18 pulltab range produced gold 8 rings. I know you can find many gold rings outside this range. I have found a 2.9 gram 18k ring that rang up -4 to 2 and a 8.5 gram 14 ring at 24 reading. In my opinion what ever metal detector your using, if your are notching out foil, your missing a lot of gold rings and rings in general. I'm just starting to use the Teknetics Patriot now, I'm sure there will be some changes but I use a small 14 k to get me in the ball park on how much discrimination to use. This also tells you if some of these big coils are going to cut it. Just my thoughts. HH Cal
 
DIGGER27 said:
Just talking about a Tesoro model.
It has knobs and you can loosen the disc knob and set it so it points at a certain spot like where nickels disc out or zinc cents.

Otherwise all other calibrations on all brands are done at the factory.
Click to expand...

Hi :tiphat:

After reading all the replies so far in this thread I want to clarify for those who aren't familiar with calibrating a detector, that we have been talking about two different types of calibrating so far.

Type #1...This is explained in Digger27's reply quoted above when you want to set the dial at a certain spot where a nickel or zincoln cent signal comes in full. To further expand on the details, I'll list the process below , step-by-step.

(a) Using the Tesoro Compadre in this example, loosen the allen set-screw in the dial and take the dial off. (b) Next, use a sample in good condition of whatever target you want to find and identify and lay it on top of the ground or buried a few inches in ground that you have previously determined to be metal free with the detector set in All Metal. (c) Leaving the detector set in AM, scan the sample and simultaneously turn the dial shaft CW (Up the Disc. arc) until the signal fades out, then(d) turn the shaft CCW until the signal comes in full and (e) being careful not to turn the shaft, replace the dial on the shaft and tighten the allen screw.

Now, theoretically (because nothing in this business is ever 100% all the time.) whenever you scan a target and thumb the dial UP and slowly back DOWN the arc until the signal comes in full, the target should be what you used as your sample. Just remember that because many different metal targets share the same conductivity zone (Are close to each other conductively), you might get a surprise ! So, that's how this type of calibration works.

Type #2..This refers to detectors that have a visual screen and a NOTCH mode. The particular details for setting notch mode are listed in the manual of each brand and model of detector having this feature. Basically the notch control allows you to selectively include, or exclude, target categories.

I hope this helps someone !

ToddB64 :wave:
 
v
ToddB64 said:
Hi :tiphat: Sorry, Todd my bad! I do undrstand the nickle calibration having used the Tesoro Cutlass, Vaquero, and Outlaw. HH Cal

After reading all the replies so far in this thread I want to clarify for those who aren't familiar with calibrating a detector, that we have been talking about two different types of calibrating so far.

Type #1...This is explained in Digger27's reply quoted above when you want to set the dial at a certain spot where a nickel or zincoln cent signal comes in full. To further expand on the details, I'll list the process below , step-by-step.

(a) Using the Tesoro Compadre in this example, loosen the allen set-screw in the dial and take the dial off. (b) Next, use a sample in good condition of whatever target you want to find and identify and lay it on top of the ground or buried a few inches in ground that you have previously determined to be metal free with the detector set in All Metal. (c) Leaving the detector set in AM, scan the sample and simultaneously turn the dial shaft CW (Up the Disc. arc) until the signal fades out, then(d) turn the shaft CCW until the signal comes in full and (e) being careful not to turn the shaft, replace the dial on the shaft and tighten the allen screw.

Now, theoretically (because nothing in this business is ever 100% all the time.) whenever you scan a target and thumb the dial UP and slowly back DOWN the arc until the signal comes in full, the target should be what you used as your sample. Just remember that because many different metal targets share the same conductivity zone (Are close to each other conductively), you might get a surprise ! So, that's how this type of calibration works.

Type #2..This refers to detectors that have a visual screen and a NOTCH mode. The particular details for setting notch mode are listed in the manual of each brand and model of detector having this feature. Basically the notch control allows you to selectively include, or exclude, target categories.

I hope this helps someone !

ToddB64 :wave:
Click to expand...
 
VI gone to roman numerals, how cool is that ?
ToddB64 said:
Hi :tiphat:

After reading all the replies so far in this thread I want to clarify for those who aren't familiar with calibrating a detector, that we have been talking about two different types of calibrating so far.

Type #1...This is explained in Digger27's reply quoted above when you want to set the dial at a certain spot where a nickel or zincoln cent signal comes in full. To further expand on the details, I'll list the process below , step-by-step.

(a) Using the Tesoro Compadre in this example, loosen the allen set-screw in the dial and take the dial off. (b) Next, use a sample in good condition of whatever target you want to find and identify and lay it on top of the ground or buried a few inches in ground that you have previously determined to be metal free with the detector set in All Metal. (c) Leaving the detector set in AM, scan the sample and simultaneously turn the dial shaft CW (Up the Disc. arc) until the signal fades out, then(d) turn the shaft CCW until the signal comes in full and (e) being careful not to turn the shaft, replace the dial on the shaft and tighten the allen screw.

Now, theoretically (because nothing in this business is ever 100% all the time.) whenever you scan a target and thumb the dial UP and slowly back DOWN the arc until the signal comes in full, the target should be what you used as your sample. Just remember that because many different metal targets share the same conductivity zone (Are close to each other conductively), you might get a surprise ! So, that's how this type of calibration works.

Type #2..This refers to detectors that have a visual screen and a NOTCH mode. The particular details for setting notch mode are listed in the manual of each brand and model of detector having this feature. Basically the notch control allows you to selectively include, or exclude, target categories.

I hope this helps someone !

ToddB64 :wave:
Click to expand...
 
I'm at odds with it but I spent a bit a while back typing furiously away only to come to my senses and delete it before posting. It seems your not interested from the general population but would rather seek info from Digger27 and that is not a bad thing for he is very knowledgeable when it comes to technical definition on various machines but if you are posting on a public forum, you should be open to all opinions or use the private messaging function provided for you.
Since it's a public thread, here is my thought on the subject. You should be seeking to set the disc at the point where the nickel drops out from discrimination mode. Not only to know where it falls out at but to know where it breaks back in at it's highest detectable setting. Before you say WTH, hear me out. It is at that point where you will receive the most information to determine whether its an can slaw bit or a nickel or another good target that may fall into that range. Good targets will come in at its highest detectable setting smoothly. A jagged can slaw bit will come in at it's highest detectable setting brittle or sharp in contrast. Both will come in the lowered disc setting almost identical, makes it more difficult to tell which is which.
In saying that, You will never know what you're missing. You will only know what you have found by actually digging the targets.
Another tidbit of info, if you hunt tot lots and are not digging metal eraser head tips from pencils ,re-evaluate your settings because you are missing a lot of nickels. I hope this helps.:)
 
Rawhide said:
I hope some one has answered this for you. Nickles are pretty close to gold. So if your looking for gold, use a nickle. The odds are you want to use a dime, as you will find more coins that way.
Click to expand...

Hi Rawhide ! :tiphat:

Yes, I have received answers in this thread on why a nickel is used for calibrating a detector.

What I've gathered from several replies is that a nickel is the usual sample used for calibrating when you want to identify signals from gold rings and other gold jewelry such as pendants, bracelets, chains, etc..

While I'm primarily a gold and silver jewelry hunter, I will also dig all coins that present. I mostly hunt with my 5.75" coil Compadre in All Metal mode.

After thinking about this calibrating business, I've decided to dispense with that and just continue using the thumbing UP and DOWN method recommended repeatedly by Digger27 and just rely on the Compadre's circuit to identify the exact dial position where the target signal comes in full and let that position help me determine what the target might be.

After getting a signal in AM mode, I thumb the dial UP until the signal fades out and then DOWN until the signal comes in full. Normally, I dig every signal unless target identification methods, signal characteristics and my gut instincts tell me it's most probably trash and in some cases, even when the target seems like trash, I dig it anyway to be sure of not missing something good.

Nothing is ever 100% certain in this target guessing game and the only way to know for sure is to dig and let your eyes be the judge. Without x-ray vision we are all dealing with probabilities, but some detectorist become intensely "one with their detector" and are able to recover more and better targets.

Happy Hunting !

ToddB64
 
bibelot said:
I'm at odds with it but I spent a bit a while back typing furiously away only to come to my senses and delete it before posting. It seems your not interested from the general population but would rather seek info from Digger27 and that is not a bad thing for he is very knowledgeable when it comes to technical definition on various machines but if you are posting on a public forum, you should be open to all opinions or use the private messaging function provided for you.
Since it's a public thread, here is my thought on the subject. You should be seeking to set the disc at the point where the nickel drops out from discrimination mode. Not only to know where it falls out at but to know where it breaks back in at it's highest detectable setting. Before you say WTH, hear me out. It is at that point where you will receive the most information to determine whether its an can slaw bit or a nickel or another good target that may fall into that range. Good targets will come in at its highest detectable setting smoothly. A jagged can slaw bit will come in at it's highest detectable setting brittle or sharp in contrast. Both will come in the lowered disc setting almost identical, makes it more difficult to tell which is which.
In saying that, You will never know what you're missing. You will only know what you have found by actually digging the targets.
Another tidbit of info, if you hunt tot lots and are not digging metal eraser head tips from pencils ,re-evaluate your settings because you are missing a lot of nickels. I hope this helps.:)
Click to expand...

bibelot,

Sorry, I have been focusing a lot on Digger27 and not giving the general population due interest and attention. I see that now and thank you for giving me a reality check. :ewink: I get fixated sometimes and concentrate in one direction, ignoring everything else around me.

I think I was working on my last post to Rawhide while you were doing the above post. :laughing:

Anyway, thanks again for your reply. I'll try to give everyone more consideration in the future !

ToddB64
 
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