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Electrolysis attempt - Update: We have bubbles!

dlax

Elite Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2016
Messages
594
Location
Massachusetts
I finally set up electrolysis to de-rust my super crusty iron finds. I know it can take several hours, but I am not getting the bubbling that many sites mention. There does seem to be some action though, but very slight. I bought the cheapest charger at Walmart ($19.99) which is a "trickle charger" and 3A. Is this why I don't seem to be getting the bubbling? Is it futile or will I have a good looking ox shoe at some point?

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It would work, but it'll be a slow process. More amps is better.

Also, you might want to use something made from steel for your positive connection, stainless steel doesn't work very good. And it could ruin the stove drip pan that you're using. When I first started doing this I was using a stainless steel rod and it ruined the rod. (Didn't look like stainless steel anymore)
 
Thanks, I may exchange the charger for a higher amp one then.

I read that the steel would be sacrificed, so I bought the stainless drip pan for 88 cents at walmart, so I'm not as worried about that. Stainless steel doesn't work as well though?
 
Here is my setup and I use washing soda instead of baking soda/powder.
 

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There are a number of reasons it may not be working, that I discovered from trial and error.
1. A bad connection at the electrode. Or you may have the wrong connector attached to the electrode. Try reversing them. Watch for bubbles coming off the item being cleaned. It is best not to submerge the connector attached to your item, so submerge as little as possible. It is normal for you electrode to decay over time. (Why I use cheap nails)
2. The electrode is not conductive enough. (DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL! Stainless emits toxic fumes, google it) I use very large steel nails
3. The solution is not conductive enough. Water will work, as will water with baking soda added, I use wash powder, but you can use others such as salt (if the item doesn't rust, i.e. copper, brass, silver)
4. Go slow! You can over cook some metals, like coins, and it will permanently discolor them.
 
The root of your problem is most likely the charger. Newer battery chargers have an auto shutoff feature and will not produce current if they do not sense a current draw. You need an old style of charger that does not have this feature. Many people who do a lot of electrolysis buy up every old charger they can find. Use a meter if you have one when you turn on your system and you will most likely find that there is no power coming from your charger.
 
I don't think you can use any "smart" charger. They have electronic brains that shut themselves off.

I use this and it is only 2 amps and works fine just take a little longer

https://www.amazon.com/RGBZONE-Power-Supply-Adapter-Connector/dp/B00ZU9MZ1S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484484828&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ac+adapter+12v&psc=1

I use a similar power supply to that. I have a bunch of those things laying around the house from old electronics that I just hack the ends off when no longer needed. If you're zapping smaller items like coin you can just use an an old cell phone charger. I zapped a horseshoe just fine with a 12v 1.5 amp charger from an old toy and that was in like a 3 gallon container. Had to run it overnight but it was fine. Also picked up a cheap roll of steel picture frame wire, I hang use the to attach anything going into the water and don't have to worry about messing up any clips coming from the power source.
 
Update #1

Thanks for all of these suggestions. It is amazing how conflicting the resources the internet have been for this, I really appreciate all of this advice.

I switched up 2 of the variables:

1. swapped the baking soda out for washing soda
2. ditched stainless steel pan for a steel drill bit

If this doesn't work then I will return the charger and look for a low-tech one, although this one isn't giving me any error codes indicating it is shutting off. I probably also have several device chargers lying around, but would have no idea how to mcgyver them correctly.

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Just use a power supply and not a trickle charger. Too many smarts built in regulating your current.
 
I read that will create toxic gas?

Not the salt - all it will do is increase the conductivity of the water so that you get more current at the same voltage. The metal you use as the anode determines the byproducts of the reaction - that is, whether it will be hazardous or not. In any event don't stick your nose in the bucket to smell if it is working. :lol:
 
Thanks for everyone's input!

I'm going to return my trickle charger since nothing is happening. Any suggestions on a charger that would work, and not something that I need to wire myself? (I have zero confidence in my ability to play around with wires and not electrocute myself.) Something to just clip on n' go is ideal.
 
Do you have an old laptop supply or a good size wall wart power supply laying around? Just wack the DC plug off and hook it up to your leads.
 
Do you have an old laptop supply or a good size wall wart power supply laying around? Just wack the DC plug off and hook it up to your leads.

Yes. But I'll admit that sounds terrifying. Do you have any step by step direction or a youtube video to recommend?
 
I have a very large electrolysis tank that I use for "restoring" cleaning old cast iron skillets/cookware. While stainless steel can create chromium gas all the research I have seen says this occurs during welding, torching, etc. A battery charger in this configuration will not generate enough heat to cause it. I have used mine with stainless steel for years and no problems. There is a group online who clean up vintage cookware, pieces worth thousands of dollars. Most use stainless steel because it last a lot longer.

Arm and Hammer wash soda is what we typically use because it is not as harsh on delicate pieces as some stuff people put in the electrolysis.

I have a charger from Sears that has an automatic setting. It works perfect.
 
Yes. But I'll admit that sounds terrifying. Do you have any step by step direction or a youtube video to recommend?



It's a very simple process. Just cut the plug off the DC side of the power supply and separate the two wires a couple feet. You can strip back the ends of the wires and either solder, crimp or screw them to the alligator clamps depending on the style you bought or have.
There are lots of videos available if you need to look at them, just do a google search.
You will be up an running in no time!
 
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