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  #21  
Old 10-28-2013, 12:56 PM
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Very nice work you could have a nice business of repairing metal detects

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  #22  
Old 10-28-2013, 06:26 PM
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Umm did he ask you to do that? Reason is I am conflicted, my boys always "Moded" stuff of mine and made it useless....But I sure wish my kid would would mod the stuff I want them to......LOL
Seriously,
Great job, looks great.....start a part time business.

Jim

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  #23  
Old 10-28-2013, 10:15 PM
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Really nice job!

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  #24  
Old 11-04-2013, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Briman05 View post
Very nice work you could have a nice business of repairing metal detects
Thanks just another hobby of mine tinkering with things. If I charged people it wouldn't be fun!

Originally Posted by sleepyjim View post
Umm did he ask you to do that? Reason is I am conflicted, my boys always "Moded" stuff of mine and made it useless....But I sure wish my kid would would mod the stuff I want them to......LOL
Seriously,
Great job, looks great.....start a part time business.

Jim
He wanted the mod but Mr. Bill stopped doing them. I did some digging and told him I could do it for him. He was a little hesitant at first but I stole it from his house and ordered what I needed... It worked out well and he was happy in the end but I guess I may have forced the mod on him!

Originally Posted by John in NC View post
Really nice job!
Thanks man!
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  #25  
Old 01-20-2014, 08:39 PM
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Still getting PM's about this mod so I figured I would put the instructions I followed in here for everyone else. This is from another forum and was a thread started by MR. Bill.:



Seeing that I have got out of the metal detecting busness. I thought I would pass this on to you all.

Be very carefull unsoldering the componets. Distroying the circuit traces is very easy to do.



Remove VR1 Trimmer off the board. Replace with a 50k linear taper, single turn potentiometer.

Remove VR4 trimmer off the board replacing it with a 100k linear taper, single turn potentiometer.

Mount these potentiometer’s externally on the top of the case.

Replace resistor R24 with a 2.2 Meg. You could have either a 470k or a 1.5 Meg there depending on when the unit was manufactured.

Check resistor R7. If it’s not a 51 ohm resistor, replace it with one of that value. It’s most likely a 100 ohm from factory. Later manufactured units had 51 ohms.

For potentiometer wiring, I use flat multi wire such as type used in computers for component connection to the board. I cut a 2 wire, 7.5” piece for the 50k ground balance pot, and a 3 wire 7.5” one for the 100k threshold pot. I secure these wires with a wire tie to the head phone & speaker wire near the connectors. I used one other wire tie to secure the pot wires together up near the pots.

Caution. Be sure that the pot closest to the end of the case doesn’t short out against the installed board components.

S.A.T changes. R32 220k resistor can be changed out. Raising the value slows the SAT. I have been installing a 375k running it through a toggle switch with the 220k. Giving a high & low setting of the SAT. One could use a potentiometer for variable results.

If your detector uses a ID meter, open the meter case, and replace resistor R28 (3.9 meg) with a 10 meg resistor. This aids in increasing the meter response depth.


Last edited by coin chaser; 01-21-2014 at 10:50 PM.
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  #26  
Old 02-24-2014, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by coin chaser View post
Still getting PM's about this mod so I figured I would put the instructions I followed in here for everyone else. This is from another forum and was a thread started by MR. Bill.:



Seeing that I have got out of the metal detecting busness. I thought I would pass this on to you all.

Be very carefull unsoldering the componets. Distroying the circuit traces is very easy to do.



Remove VR1 Trimmer off the board. Replace with a 50k linear taper, single turn potentiometer.

Remove VR4 trimmer off the board replacing it with a 100k linear taper, single turn potentiometer.

Mount these potentiometer’s externally on the top of the case.

Replace resistor R24 with a 2.2 Meg. You could have either a 470k or a 1.5 Meg there depending on when the unit was manufactured.

Check resistor R7. If it’s not a 51 ohm resistor, replace it with one of that value. It’s most likely a 100 ohm from factory. Later manufactured units had 51 ohms.

For potentiometer wiring, I use flat multi wire such as type used in computers for component connection to the board. I cut a 2 wire, 7.5” piece for the 50k ground balance pot, and a 3 wire 7.5” one for the 100k threshold pot. I secure these wires with a wire tie to the head phone & speaker wire near the connectors. I used one other wire tie to secure the pot wires together up near the pots.

Caution. Be sure that the pot closest to the end of the case doesn’t short out against the installed board components.

S.A.T changes. R32 220k resistor can be changed out. Raising the value slows the SAT. I have been installing a 375k running it through a toggle switch with the 220k. Giving a high & low setting of the SAT. One could use a potentiometer for variable results.

If your detector uses a ID meter, open the meter case, and replace resistor R28 (3.9 meg) with a 10 meg resistor. This aids in increasing the meter response depth.

Any chance you have a shopping list of part numbers to help a fellow get the right components?
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  #27  
Old 02-24-2014, 09:48 PM
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Your a very brave man but it looks awesome!
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  #28  
Old 02-27-2014, 08:55 PM
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Sure is nice of Mr. Bill to release all his info. For quite a while it was a closely guarded secret and it does add alot to the classic SL series and the IDX's.

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  #29  
Old 03-11-2014, 01:30 PM
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Default Mods..

Would these mods work on a Coinmaster Classic II?? Just wondering...
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  #30  
Old 03-19-2014, 09:00 AM
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Awesome!!!

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  #31  
Old 03-27-2014, 01:38 AM
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Thumbs up nice!

i got half way through doing mine and put it on meltdown! r.i.p. classic.... anyways nice job!

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  #32  
Old 04-06-2014, 01:32 AM
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jdavis did u ever get an answer to ur question on the classic ll I would like to modify mine send me some email daboss01@yahoo.com
thanks
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  #33  
Old 04-06-2014, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jdavis View post
Would these mods work on a Coinmaster Classic II?? Just wondering...
Originally Posted by jrloza View post
jdavis did u ever get an answer to ur question on the classic ll I would like to modify mine send me some email daboss01@yahoo.com
thanks
Here's what its listed for. Sorry for the delay guys.:

Whites Classic, II, III, ID, and IDX Modifications
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  #34  
Old 03-23-2015, 05:17 PM
jdavis jdavis is offline
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Default Parts list

Do you have a copy of the actual parts list?? I see resistors do not have a watt rating.
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  #35  
Old 03-23-2015, 05:31 PM
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A 1/4 or 1/2 watt will work. I did this mod a few weeks back. I only had to replace the R24 to the 2.2 meg. The R7 was already a 51 ohm, so that stayed. The pots were pretty basic. The only thing I would recommend is to make sure you buy the smaller style pots. The ones I purchased at my local electronics store were heavy duty ones. I had to cut a hole and make a riser so the bottom of the pots would not touch the board.
After I was done I tested my snooper coil, and was amazed at the air test depth.
If you need any help there are a few more people who have done the mod.

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  #36  
Old 03-24-2015, 01:45 PM
Vito Vito is offline
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Default Yes

You can use this instruction [Mr Bill's Mod] for the White's Classic 3 SL, too.
And for all Classic ID/IDX/IDXpro.

Originally Posted by Tial57 View post
Hello

These mods are they compatible with the Classic 3 SLX ?

Thanks
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  #37  
Old 01-10-2016, 02:11 AM
wingryder wingryder is offline
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Default One more wiring question

I just bought a Classic ID and after reading about the mods. I do have one question.
VR1 and VR4 are both variable resistors with three poles each. . Mr. Bill says he uses two wire for the 50k and 3 wire for the 100k. Since I have yet to find a schematic can someone explain exactly how to wire in the pots.
thanks
wingryder
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  #38  
Old 01-10-2016, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by wingryder View post
I just bought a Classic ID and after reading about the mods. I do have one question.
VR1 and VR4 are both variable resistors with three poles each. . Mr. Bill says he uses two wire for the 50k and 3 wire for the 100k. Since I have yet to find a schematic can someone explain exactly how to wire in the pots.
thanks
wingryder
When you remove the pot you will see that two of the pot terminals are actually connected on the board. So since there is essentially only two terminals on the board use a 2 wire. One goes to a outside post on the pot and the other wire goes to both the center and remaining out side post on the pot. Make sure to let us know how it goes. This was a fun project I had a great time doing.
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  #39  
Old 01-10-2016, 12:06 PM
wingryder wingryder is offline
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Thanks Coin Chaser

That is just the info I needed. And with the three wire pot.. is it obvious how it wires to the board.? I am assuming the middle connection (not in line with the others) on the board where VR4 was removed connects to the middle post on the pot.

Wingryder
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  #40  
Old 01-10-2016, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by wingryder View post
Thanks Coin Chaser

That is just the info I needed. And with the three wire pot.. is it obvious how it wires to the board.? I am assuming the middle connection (not in line with the others) on the board where VR4 was removed connects to the middle post on the pot.

Wingryder
No problem Wing,
Yep three pin left to right. The pot on the board is the exact same as the pot your going to install just a smaller version that has no knob and you have adjust it with a little regular screw driver. They are factory set and now you are making it so you can adjust it on the fly.
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