I think I drank the Etrac coolaid!

Every site willl dictate the settings you use on the E-Trac, there are no cookie cutter settings....what works for you in your ground may not work for me in my ground.

A better way to help would be an explanation of what each setting does or doesnt do when used in conjunction with other settings.

The numbers you set yours at are irrelevant to other peoples numbers...

I've learned more from watching videos from guys who know what they're talking about that walk you through each setting etc... numbers are customized to the individuals liking or the location....

Hence why the E-Trac allows you to set up many patterns and settings...because no two sites are exactly alike and no two people run every setting exactly alike...

If you notice most of my settings recommendations are mostly general in nature.

And I think most competent minded folks would understand there is not a one size fits all.

But for folks who are struggling with their units, or are discouraged with their units, or are contemplating buying/using one of the units---this thread has info that may aid them.
 
I do like to have the variability set to max as well

Same here. I have always felt the more info the better the accuracy. Setting Variability to 30 gives more tonal information. I also think it helps with iron identification. You get to know that very high tink tone and know it is most likely a rusted nail/wire.
 
Same here. I have always felt the more info the better the accuracy. Setting Variability to 30 gives more tonal information. I also think it helps with iron identification. You get to know that very high tink tone and know it is most likely a rusted nail/wire.

Mines at 28 personal preference :)
 
If you notice most of my settings recommendations are mostly general in nature.

And I think most competent minded folks would understand there is not a one size fits all.

But for folks who are struggling with their units, or are discouraged with their units, or are contemplating buying/using one of the units---this thread has info that may aid them.

Competent minded people? Did you make that up like you made up your secret admirer sending you a racer?

As stated I take advice from reputable people...not thise who copy n paste other peoples advice.
 
Well, I found out today how they read. And it was interesting.

I dug a couple Lincoln pennies today that had the numbers of a dime.
The numbers jumped a little bit.

I air tested them both immediately after digging them and they both air
tested with the same numbers as when they were in the ground.

Copper pennies are very close to dimes on my CTX also. Have been fooled a couple times on those. Better condition zincs are upper 30's and crusty ones down to lower 30's.
 
Competent minded people? Did you make that up like you made up your secret admirer sending you a racer?

As stated I take advice from reputable people...not thise who copy n paste other peoples advice.

Nectar,

I owned and ran 2 etracs and one CTX machine. My postings about these machines are my advice/recommendations solely.

If you don't like my recommendations or post---very simple solution-DON'T read or make post about them.

You always seem to try and turn friendly, educational threads into garbage with your comments--comments that don't benefit anyone even you.
 
Please, lets nip this in the bud before it even gets started and just drop it
and get back to the original post.

Thanks guys :)

Rand (nightdigger)
 
Folks using the Etrac any size coil----

The etrac is a machine that seems to yield good/great depth with the slowest of sweeps

I mention this because some VLF detectors will not get their max depth (even with optimum settings, one example White's XLT) with a slow sweep or wiggling of the coil

So with any sized coil attached to Etrac, there will be times when the only time you will be able to get a signal on some targets is USING the Minelab Wiggle.

This wiggling the coil---usually needed to find the coins etc that are heavily masked i.e iron/nails

And those high tone glints you hear, those are the target areas to maybe slow the coil sweep down---and yes try the coil wiggle to see if you can get more or less a lock on the target.

Lock meaning some pretty consistent tone on multiple sweeps
 
Please, lets nip this in the bud before it even gets started and just drop it
and get back to the original post.

Thanks guys :)

Rand (nightdigger)

Not a problem. ..when someone tells fairy tales straight out of the gate on this site I cant believe anything they say after that...they lost credibility so his words hold no weight with me no matter the conversation....its like charlie browns teacher talking. ..

Just making a point about numbers....no cookie cutter settings...is...alll...:D
 
Not a problem. ..when someone tells fairy tales straight out of the gate on this site I cant believe anything they say after that...they lost credibility so his words hold no weight with me no matter the conversation....its like charlie browns teacher talking. ..

Just making a point about numbers....no cookie cutter settings...is...alll...:D



TRANSLATED:
Not a problem. ..now let me say some more about him...through you.
:D

Your Funny :grin:



.....
 
Aside from the bickering this is a really informative thread,And I think it's time for me to read Andy's book.Ive had a few fbs units,all always came with that book as did this etrac ,but I've never read it.I think its time.Thanks to all who posted positive feedback,its changed my mind somewhat on my machine.
 
That doesn't surprise me, based on my experiences. I will say though coins can read slightly lower at times vs textbook i.e. a silver dime usually reported for me 12-45, but if the dime was really worn, I might see 12-42/43, or even 12-40 depending on how much they were worn.

So it's not entirely impossible for a really worn silver dime to report as low as a zincoln. So when in an older site beware.


After reading this, yesterday I grabbed a Mercury in great shape and one of my Barbers that was worn
pretty thin. I couldn't believe it! The Barber read as 12-42!! The Mercury read 12-45!

......................I did switch the coil back to the pro before I did this........................

I need to rethink what I am digging.....or should I say, "not digging" lol

Thanks for that info :)


Rand
 
Here is some additional info. I posted this earlier in another thread on this forum actually.

Alright, first I don't how much you know, so you may already know some of this.

Look at your Etrac screen. Going left to right, lower conductors report in on the left, the higher conductors on the right. So small gold, lead,pewter--on the left.
And copper/silver on the right.
In the middle you will see things like shotgun shells, medium sized bullets, Indian Head Cents to name a few.
Nickels like to report at/around 13 Conductive---watch the war nickel----it likes to report higher like 17 at times.

Going from top to bottom, top is lowest ferrous readout, bottom is highest ferrous readout. The most important thing about the ferrous is 28 and higher to 35 is iron/ferrous.

The shaded portions (Disc) on your screen is to reject both ferrous and nonferrous. And where this shading is, is why the Etrac rejects certain targets---based on the info I provided above.

I highly recommend you get you some of the targets you said you dug above and along with these get you some dimes/quarters/zincolns/copper pennies/silver ring/gold ring--small and larger and some nails.

Before you sweep all these targets, I HIGHLY Recommend you go into your settings and adjust your variability setting to max.
This turning this setting to max, will add more tone nuance between higher and lower conductors.

Sweep the items in open screen---no shading so you can see where they show up on the screen.

You with a little practice with the variability setting set to max----be able to hunt with your detector more by ear.

Gain setting--This setting when maxxed has the tendency to make both shallow and deeper targets have a better chance of having louder-same volume audio.
With the gain setting turned down some--your detector will still detect (provide tone) on the deeper targets, but the tone will have less volume, and shallower targets louder--so another way besides depth meter to differentiate deep vs shallower targets.

I like my gain maxxed.

Remember not all target hit textbook with target ID, colocated nonferrous target/ferrous/ground minerals/depth/worn or chipped/partial coins can make a target's ID not textbook.

Recovery fast setting turned ON, speeds up your detectors recovery, making it separate better and can allow for a slightly faster swing speed. In trashy areas, areas loaded with iron---turn recovery fast to ON.

Something else---always do a noise cancel on a site before you start. If even in the same site your detector gets noisy, do another noise cancel; especially if a bud shows up with their detector, try to do noise cancel while their detector is turned on.

Sensitivity---auto sens lacks depth compared to manual.
Manual sens of 25 or higher---Etrac starts to punch deeper.

You will have to learn iron falses---and higher sens settings, these falses can become more numerous---but make no mistake, higher man sens is what gets the deeper targets.

Pinpoint--there are 2 settings available--I like normal.
In trashy areas---you'll find pinpoint difficult or useless----better to just dig the spot where the tone is being produced.

Screen readability--some folks run backlight on all the time--it helps a little.
Does pull on the battery more.
RNB aftermarket battery is top notch---long hours of hunting before charge.

Sweep speed--you can't go too slow---can go too fast though--this can cause falses too.

Remember tone first and foremost.
Conductive #S are the ones to watch---ferrous numbers really unimportant unless they are in the 28-35 range (ferrous)

Auto sens # displayed--low number can indicate high EMI or high ground minerals

Ground setting- I've never run an etrac on inert or low mineral ground so, I always use Ground=difficult
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some info I posted a few days ago to help another person out:
If you are sweeping too fast you may still hear a deeper say coin, but tone or tone duration may not be so textbook-hence when you hear something---resweep with varying sweep speeds and consider pivoting around the target.

User can be fooled with deep iron.

Some things to watch/listen for. Let's say you are running some real high sens while sweeping and you hear a high tone glint. Deep iron can cause this.

What to do??

First sweep the spot with varying speeds (slowly) and listen. Does the high tone seem consistent---coming from the exact (to near exact) spot on the ground as the coil is moved across??? And with multiple sweeps. Consistency in the tone is key- no matter how bad. If yes, this is a good sign for a nonferrous target. What does the cursor do when you get this consistent tone coming from this spot???? Is the cursor trying to stay in the nonferrous range---now it can move around but does it ever try to go to the iron range and hang there??? If not---another good sign of nonferrous.

Next pivot around the target and sweep. Does the tone again sound off when the coil passes the same spot earlier??? If yes, very good sign of nonferrous.
If when pivoting, let's say you get no tone or a null??? You can not IMO eliminate the possibility of a nonferrous target existing based on this, in itself.

Now what if when pivoting let's say the tone seems to come from a substantial different spot vs the original spot of detection???? This is generally one of the best clues for iron using minelabs. But if some or all of the above apply, this different spot of detection could be caused by adjacent iron, or possibly other adjacent nonferrous targets.

There are no absolutes---but the above when used will many times help/identify/differentiate ferrous and nonferrous and help when having to make Dig/No Dig decisions.

All new metered Minelabs users can/may benefit from this info. It's not in the manuals. Should be IMO.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Two tone ferrous is good for areas with abundant iron, but it has disadvantages:
I read where folks use this to hunt with their Etrac detectors. It is somewhat flawed though and a person could infact be missing some detectable targets.

Two tone ferrous has the tone break assigned to 17 on the ferrous scale.

So anything reading a higher ferrous number than 17 will report low tone, not higher tone.

I have had many instances of digging coins where this ferrous number would never read/report lower than 17 on any sweeps of the coil over coins. (In Conductive mode). So these particular targets would have never yielded a high tone if I would have been in 2TF..

This higher ferrous number based on my experiences was caused by higher levels of minerals in the soil, an overall deeper target, or targets (coins) colocated with iron/nails, or a combination.

I have dug 2 targets with etrac w/ 10x12 sef coil that read 27 on the ferrous line. One a silver ring the other a seated dime. The site where these 2 targets were exhumed was not higher mineral ground, but the site was part of a old town since been moved. (circa1800). A lot of nails and rust noted in the soil when even digging other targets. This possible 27 ferrous reading on a good nonferrous target is talked about in Mr Sabisch's explorer /etrac book.


Granted hunting in areas with lots of nails 2TF may help a person hear some good targets better.

Just be mindful using 2 tone ferrous, you may not hear some of the deeper good targets.

What about 4 tone ferrous???
If a person can learn to decipher the lowest tone from the next higher 4TF has a better chance to provide tone on some of the targets in areas like I described above. It's hard for me to decipher so I don't like 4TF. And with the tone break level set at 30, bigger iron can produce higher tone than the lowest tone.

Remember hunting in areas with lower soil mineralization you may in fact be able to run 2TF and still get the higher tone, even on the deeper targets.

You may even while in 2TF get a high tone on one sweep and a low on another sweep. Users will notice the ferrous # does windshield wipe at times when sweeping targets.

If Minelab would have set the 2TF tone break to around 25/27 would have been nice.

This is where the CTX shines over the Etrac. The tone break on CTX is adjustable for ferrous as well as conductive.

I do favor the conductive tones on the Etrac vs CTX though.
 
And that rluna is why I try and tell people not to give up on the E-Trac/CTX. Yes it can be a challenge depending on what you've been used to but IF you take the time to become one with the machine it will get you places most others can only dream of.

Thats great Terry! Sounds like the beginning of a good science fiction movie :lol:

"To explore strange new worlds to seek out life and new civilizations to boldly go
where no man has gone before" :giggle:


Rand
 
Another tip

You will see some folks say basically to distinguish an aluminum can---just pick the coil up high, if target still signals--can

Well not quite

A little story of what happened to me

I was detecting using an Etrac with a 10x12 SEF coil

I was running 27 manual sensitivity

I had hunted this site a couple times before

So I was a swinging on this site for the 3rd time

I get this signal--high tone with dime TID ---lifted the coil about 10" and yep the signal was still there, so I walked

Well after an hour or so, I hadn't found anything--and happened to come upon this same monster signal again

So I lifted the coil real high again--sure enough the signal was still a banging, so I then lowered the coil to the ground and started to sweep in a big circle with each sweep getting closer and closer to the spot the signal was coning from

What did I witness, I was able to get the coil's edge pretty close to the actual spot before the detector would sound off--I was puzzled and dug

Out come 2 wheat heads and one indian head at approx 7" deep, they were stacked in the ground just like they would be in a roll of coins.

So folks you never know
 
Every site willl dictate the settings you use on the E-Trac, there are no cookie cutter settings....what works for you in your ground may not work for me in my ground.

A better way to help would be an explanation of what each setting does or doesnt do when used in conjunction with other settings.

The numbers you set yours at are irrelevant to other peoples numbers...

I've learned more from watching videos from guys who know what they're talking about that walk you through each setting etc... numbers are customized to the individuals liking or the location....

Hence why the E-Trac allows you to set up many patterns and settings...because no two sites are exactly alike and no two people run every setting exactly alike...

After my initial hate party with the Etrac I was so happy to find an "Etrac set up" on the forums that was
kinda of like a "Good setup to get Started with your etrac kinda thing"

Sure, its not exactly what I am using now but I needed something to start with and it helped so much.

Actually, what I am using now is not too far off from the settings I was told would be a good starting
point.
And almost every setting I changed since then have been just personal settings, not so much because
of my area and conditions.

The Etrac is not so much like the V3i where you have dozens of setting and changes for many different
things. Many of the things that you need to tweak or can tweak on the V3i are done automatically on
the Etrac.

I think for the new users out there.....it's not getting all the settings just perfectly right for your conditions
that take time because unlike the V3i you wont have to do that with the Etrac.......But what will take time
(more or less depending on the person) will be learning and understanding all the things that the Etrac is
already doing for you and how it is giving you that information.

Keep in mind....All I did was:
1) - Downloaded someones silver pattern onto my machine
2) - Put the settings where most people were saying was a good start
3) - Noise cancelled and started hunting
4) - Started Finding Silver :)

I did read the Andy Sabisch book because I got it with the Etrac I bought but that was after what I
did above.

I guess a good way of putting it is, the book didn't help me find more silver it just help me understand
why I was finding it. I'm not a huge technical guy or reader. So although the book was interesting
(at times)lol.....I didn't read all of it and haven't touched it since yet I keep learning more and more
about the Etrac every week, by just spending time with the Etrac and through the forums.


Rand (nightdigger)
 
Here is some additional info. I posted this earlier in another thread on this forum actually.

Alright, first I don't how much you know, so you may already know some of this.

Look at your Etrac screen. Going left to right, lower conductors report in on the left, the higher conductors on the right. So small gold, lead,pewter--on the left.
And copper/silver on the right.
In the middle you will see things like shotgun shells, medium sized bullets, Indian Head Cents to name a few.
Nickels like to report at/around 13 Conductive---watch the war nickel----it likes to report higher like 17 at times.

Going from top to bottom, top is lowest ferrous readout, bottom is highest ferrous readout. The most important thing about the ferrous is 28 and higher to 35 is iron/ferrous.

The shaded portions (Disc) on your screen is to reject both ferrous and nonferrous. And where this shading is, is why the Etrac rejects certain targets---based on the info I provided above.

I highly recommend you get you some of the targets you said you dug above and along with these get you some dimes/quarters/zincolns/copper pennies/silver ring/gold ring--small and larger and some nails.

Before you sweep all these targets, I HIGHLY Recommend you go into your settings and adjust your variability setting to max.
This turning this setting to max, will add more tone nuance between higher and lower conductors.

Sweep the items in open screen---no shading so you can see where they show up on the screen.

You with a little practice with the variability setting set to max----be able to hunt with your detector more by ear.

Gain setting--This setting when maxxed has the tendency to make both shallow and deeper targets have a better chance of having louder-same volume audio.
With the gain setting turned down some--your detector will still detect (provide tone) on the deeper targets, but the tone will have less volume, and shallower targets louder--so another way besides depth meter to differentiate deep vs shallower targets.

I like my gain maxxed.

Remember not all target hit textbook with target ID, colocated nonferrous target/ferrous/ground minerals/depth/worn or chipped/partial coins can make a target's ID not textbook.

Recovery fast setting turned ON, speeds up your detectors recovery, making it separate better and can allow for a slightly faster swing speed. In trashy areas, areas loaded with iron---turn recovery fast to ON.

Something else---always do a noise cancel on a site before you start. If even in the same site your detector gets noisy, do another noise cancel; especially if a bud shows up with their detector, try to do noise cancel while their detector is turned on.

Sensitivity---auto sens lacks depth compared to manual.
Manual sens of 25 or higher---Etrac starts to punch deeper.

You will have to learn iron falses---and higher sens settings, these falses can become more numerous---but make no mistake, higher man sens is what gets the deeper targets.

Pinpoint--there are 2 settings available--I like normal.
In trashy areas---you'll find pinpoint difficult or useless----better to just dig the spot where the tone is being produced.

Screen readability--some folks run backlight on all the time--it helps a little.
Does pull on the battery more.
RNB aftermarket battery is top notch---long hours of hunting before charge.

Sweep speed--you can't go too slow---can go too fast though--this can cause falses too.

Remember tone first and foremost.
Conductive #S are the ones to watch---ferrous numbers really unimportant unless they are in the 28-35 range (ferrous)

Auto sens # displayed--low number can indicate high EMI or high ground minerals

Ground setting- I've never run an etrac on inert or low mineral ground so, I always use Ground=difficult
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some info I posted a few days ago to help another person out:
If you are sweeping too fast you may still hear a deeper say coin, but tone or tone duration may not be so textbook-hence when you hear something---resweep with varying sweep speeds and consider pivoting around the target.

User can be fooled with deep iron.

Some things to watch/listen for. Let's say you are running some real high sens while sweeping and you hear a high tone glint. Deep iron can cause this.

What to do??

First sweep the spot with varying speeds (slowly) and listen. Does the high tone seem consistent---coming from the exact (to near exact) spot on the ground as the coil is moved across??? And with multiple sweeps. Consistency in the tone is key- no matter how bad. If yes, this is a good sign for a nonferrous target. What does the cursor do when you get this consistent tone coming from this spot???? Is the cursor trying to stay in the nonferrous range---now it can move around but does it ever try to go to the iron range and hang there??? If not---another good sign of nonferrous.

Next pivot around the target and sweep. Does the tone again sound off when the coil passes the same spot earlier??? If yes, very good sign of nonferrous.
If when pivoting, let's say you get no tone or a null??? You can not IMO eliminate the possibility of a nonferrous target existing based on this, in itself.

Now what if when pivoting let's say the tone seems to come from a substantial different spot vs the original spot of detection???? This is generally one of the best clues for iron using minelabs. But if some or all of the above apply, this different spot of detection could be caused by adjacent iron, or possibly other adjacent nonferrous targets.

There are no absolutes---but the above when used will many times help/identify/differentiate ferrous and nonferrous and help when having to make Dig/No Dig decisions.

All new metered Minelabs users can/may benefit from this info. It's not in the manuals. Should be IMO.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Two tone ferrous is good for areas with abundant iron, but it has disadvantages:
I read where folks use this to hunt with their Etrac detectors. It is somewhat flawed though and a person could infact be missing some detectable targets.

Two tone ferrous has the tone break assigned to 17 on the ferrous scale.

So anything reading a higher ferrous number than 17 will report low tone, not higher tone.

I have had many instances of digging coins where this ferrous number would never read/report lower than 17 on any sweeps of the coil over coins. (In Conductive mode). So these particular targets would have never yielded a high tone if I would have been in 2TF..

This higher ferrous number based on my experiences was caused by higher levels of minerals in the soil, an overall deeper target, or targets (coins) colocated with iron/nails, or a combination.

I have dug 2 targets with etrac w/ 10x12 sef coil that read 27 on the ferrous line. One a silver ring the other a seated dime. The site where these 2 targets were exhumed was not higher mineral ground, but the site was part of a old town since been moved. (circa1800). A lot of nails and rust noted in the soil when even digging other targets. This possible 27 ferrous reading on a good nonferrous target is talked about in Mr Sabisch's explorer /etrac book.


Granted hunting in areas with lots of nails 2TF may help a person hear some good targets better.

Just be mindful using 2 tone ferrous, you may not hear some of the deeper good targets.

What about 4 tone ferrous???
If a person can learn to decipher the lowest tone from the next higher 4TF has a better chance to provide tone on some of the targets in areas like I described above. It's hard for me to decipher so I don't like 4TF. And with the tone break level set at 30, bigger iron can produce higher tone than the lowest tone.

Remember hunting in areas with lower soil mineralization you may in fact be able to run 2TF and still get the higher tone, even on the deeper targets.

You may even while in 2TF get a high tone on one sweep and a low on another sweep. Users will notice the ferrous # does windshield wipe at times when sweeping targets.

If Minelab would have set the 2TF tone break to around 25/27 would have been nice.

This is where the CTX shines over the Etrac. The tone break on CTX is adjustable for ferrous as well as conductive.

I do favor the conductive tones on the Etrac vs CTX though.


Oh My Gosh!! Your like a drug pusher for metal detecting. After reading all that I want so badly to
go out right now and get my metal detecting fix :lol: Unfortunately it's raining right now here in
Wisconsin :(

Really good stuff! A lot of what you said reinforces what I am already doing plus some new things
that I didn't know.......Oh Please stop raining!!

Rand
 
real good tips in this thread..I myself just becoming a new etrac owner! Kinda late in the year , so im reading reading reading, trying to absorb everything I can!
 
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