Garret ACE-250 vs Fisher F2

Agree -

One looks cool when doing it

&

The other, beeps like road runner in a bowl of custard :lol:
:crackup:
Now that's funny! Seriously, both are good machines. It's usually the operator. I mean, I thought I was a serious hunter until I started reading Digger's articles.
 
I was wondering if the F2 can be set to pick up the same signals as the Ace 250 (nickle/gold+top 4 notches on Ace} and give an audio signal so you can search without looking at numbers.

What sllingshot said.

A good tone is a good tone, no matter what you use, and I never even look at the screen before I hear a good tone no matter what I am using.
As far as gold, most every piece I have ever dug except one has been solid, repeating and clear...but every one was disguised as trash.
Only one came in as an exact nickel signal, every other piece tried to fool me and came in as tones, numbers and icon positions as lower zinc trash, tabs, nickel areas but trash, and foil and one thin gold chain as iron.
You probably have an idea on just how much foil is out there, a ton, but you might not know how much of the smaller gold rings and other jewelry pieces come in there, too.
Also a huge amount.
Not to mention chains of all kinds including silver.
I have found more silver chains at foil than just about any other area...that is just the way of the world in this hobby.

So the answer to your question is yes, by either knocking out all the lower sections on the F2 or by using the notch system which will give you the choice of about 95 different combinations of disc settings you can listen for a good tone and just dig those...but you will miss so much if all you ever do is dig those higher end targets, and if you do take a peak at those numbers on the screen after a good tone that information will tell you volumes and help to distinguish the difference between lots of trash and good targets including gold.
Not all trash but a very large percentage of it.
The good thing is every piece of gold I have dug so far, 26 pieces in 4 years, have been solid in the tone and stable in the numbers on both my F70 and that F2 with stable non jumping numbers in the VDI info and stable non jumping depth bars.
All have been relatively shallow at about 6" or less, very deep gold can act differently and be way more skittish on the F2 and any detectors for that matter.

All detectors give you information in audio clues and many in screen information...some more, some less.
The key is to figure out all these clues and dig the highest percentage targets to find the good stuff and try not to waste time and energy digging the bad stuff.
I have stated I am a dig-it-all kind of hunter but in actuality that is not really true.
What I am is a dig-it-all solid signal in the screen information and tones digger because even though I still dig a lot of that solid sounding and stable trash, (exactly like most gold signals I have come across), lots of trash is not solid or stable at all and I rarely dig those anymore.
Used to, but I have dug enough to learn that most will be trash and I just won't waste my energy digging most of that stuff anymore after digging thousands and learning my lesson.

You never know 100% what you are swinging over unless you dig it, always remember that, but I had to draw a line in the sand somewhere and that line was determined by learning my detectors as well as possible and quickly adding up all the clues I hear and see on any screens to make as many high percentage digging decisions as I can and that method has worked well for me so far.
Keep in mind I was not this good at doing it this way at the beginning with any of my detectors, I dug way more trash than you would believe possible for a long time, but only after many hours of swinging and experimenting and learning have I gotten to this point with a relatively high success rate at finding gold in the dirt in public sites and was able to cut down on my trash digging amount by a good margin.
Still learning too...that never ends IMO.
 
What sllingshot said.

A good tone is a good tone, no matter what you use, and I never even look at the screen before I hear a good tone no matter what I am using.
As far as gold, most every piece I have ever dug except one has been solid, repeating and clear...but every one was disguised as trash.
Only one came in as an exact nickel signal, every other piece tried to fool me and came in as tones, numbers and icon positions as lower zinc trash, tabs, nickel areas but trash, and foil and one thin gold chain as iron.
You probably have an idea on just how much foil is out there, a ton, but you might not know how much of the smaller gold rings and other jewelry pieces come in there, too.
Also a huge amount.
Not to mention chains of all kinds including silver.
I have found more silver chains at foil than just about any other area...that is just the way of the world in this hobby.

So the answer to your question is yes, by either knocking out all the lower sections on the F2 or by using the notch system which will give you the choice of about 95 different combinations of disc settings you can listen for a good tone and just dig those...but you will miss so much if all you ever do is dig those higher end targets, and if you do take a peak at those numbers on the screen after a good tone that information will tell you volumes and help to distinguish the difference between lots of trash and good targets including gold.
Not all trash but a very large percentage of it.
The good thing is every piece of gold I have dug so far, 26 pieces in 4 years, have been solid in the tone and stable in the numbers on both my F70 and that F2 with stable non jumping numbers in the VDI info and stable non jumping depth bars.
All have been relatively shallow at about 6" or less, very deep gold can act differently and be way more skittish on the F2 and any detectors for that matter.

All detectors give you information in audio clues and many in screen information...some more, some less.
The key is to figure out all these clues and dig the highest percentage targets to find the good stuff and try not to waste time and energy digging the bad stuff.
I have stated I am a dig-it-all kind of hunter but in actuality that is not really true.
What I am is a dig-it-all solid signal in the screen information and tones digger because even though I still dig a lot of that solid sounding and stable trash, (exactly like most gold signals I have come across), lots of trash is not solid and all and I rarely dig those anymore.
Used to, but I have dug enough to learn that most will be trash and I just won't waste my energy digging most of that stuff anymore after digging thousands and learning my lesson.

You never know 100% what you are swinging over unless you dig it, always remember that, but I had to draw a line in the sand somewhere and that line was determined by learning my detectors as well as possible and quickly adding up all the clues I hear and see on any screens to make as many high percentage digging decisions as I can and that method has worked well for me so far.
Keep in mind I was not this good at doing it this way at the beginning with any of my detectors, I dug way more trash than you would believe possible for a long time, but only after many hours of swinging and experimenting and learning have I gotten to this point with a relatively high success rate at finding gold in the dirt in public sites and was able to cut down on my trash digging amount by a good margin.
Still learning too...that never ends IMO.

Thanks and you did answer my question. I cover a lot of ground and sometimes I only have one shot at a lot and the time on such lot is limited.That is why I was wondering if the F2 could be set up to be effective in such a situation. It sounds like the F2 would be good in a situation like that. It just seems to me like some of the new people to the hobby who purchase an F2 would try "the simple method first" and find some stuff while they are figuring out how to interpret the numbers.
 
Thanks and you did answer my question. I cover a lot of ground and sometimes I only have one shot at a lot and the time on such lot is limited.That is why I was wondering if the F2 could be set up to be effective in such a situation. It sounds like the F2 would be good in a situation like that. It just seems to me like some of the new people to the hobby who purchase an F2 would try "the simple method first" and find some stuff while they are figuring out how to interpret the numbers.

The numbers are fast, simple and effective.
I don't believe I ever looked at the icon indicator from the first second I started swinging this thing.
 
The numbers are fast, simple and effective.
I don't believe I ever looked at the icon indicator from the first second I started swinging this thing.

Thanks I will be covering some ground that I detected before. I'll be digging some of those "lower" signals. They are probably going to have to be "repeat" signals but I am going to check them out. I'm going to be detecting a lot that I don't think has been detected before shortly,so I'm going to have to decide when I get on it if I'm going to go for the "easy targets" first though.
 
Thanks I will be covering some ground that I detected before. I'll be digging some of those "lower" signals. They are probably going to have to be "repeat" signals but I am going to check them out. I'm going to be detecting a lot that I don't think has been detected before shortly,so I'm going to have to decide when I get on it if I'm going to go for the "easy targets" first though.

I can assure you that F2 will keep you busy digging targets especially if you are a dig it all sort of detectorist. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 
Another Option

I know that you are looking at the Ace and the F2 but please investigate the Teknetics Eurotek Pro. You can get on for the same money and it is a GREAT machine. You will appreciate the ability to adjust the volume to 11 or 12 to lower the tones for iron targets. Just my opinion, but you could not do better than the ETP!
 
Thanks to everyone for your response. I am not at this time looking for a different detector but was rather curious about the F2. It seems like it would be a fine machine but it seems like people new to the hobby are trying to figure it out which is fine as I have been using my Ace 250 for more than 2 years and I'm sure I can still learn a thing or two. I guess what I would like to say is that you can use these machines and find stuff before you spend too much time trying to figure them out.
 
Thanks to everyone for your response. I am not at this time looking for a different detector but was rather curious about the F2. It seems like it would be a fine machine but it seems like people new to the hobby are trying to figure it out which is fine as I have been using my Ace 250 for more than 2 years and I'm sure I can still learn a thing or two. I guess what I would like to say is that you can use these machines and find stuff before you spend too much time trying to figure them out.
The sniper coil was one of the reasons I stopped looking. Sure I'd like to go back 30 years whenever I was buying a detector every year-just to find coins 3-5" deep. I really never had a bad detector-I can't think of any major mfg. that I didn't like. I was even worse than Ski!:laughing:
 
The sniper coil was one of the reasons I stopped looking. Sure I'd like to go back 30 years whenever I was buying a detector every year-just to find coins 3-5" deep. I really never had a bad detector-I can't think of any major mfg. that I didn't like. I was even worse than Ski!:laughing:

Yes I am going to have to check out that sniper coil. I am going to be going over some areas that I have hunted before. But my favorite method of detecting is going over a lot that has not been searched in "simple mode" and covering some ground. When I can't do that I will going after those harder items to find and I will need the right equipment and knowledge so i won't be wasting my time.
 
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