Electrolysis in a JIF

Gauntlet

Forum Supporter
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Messages
4,070
Location
South of Graceland
JIF Peanut Butter jar that is :D

I drilled extra holes in the lid to prevent pressure build-up from the gassing. I used 1/4" SS bolts and nuts.

IM004165.jpg


IM004164.jpg


IM004167.jpg


IM004168.jpg


Here's the before:
Image34.jpg


And the after:
Image36.jpg


Yes, it's pitted, but it was pitted before being cleaned, it just wasn't visible. Now I can at least read the date Took me about the same amount of time to clean it as it did assemble the jar (10 minutes).

I'm using a battery charger with a 12v DC 1000mA output (I got 2 with a couple of small AMG batteries I got last year for boat electronics). I did stir-in a couple teaspoons of table salt, and rubbed/rinsed with baking soda and water when finished.

I'll add the same thing I'd read in all the old posts, DON'T use this on valuable coins. Cleaner isn't always better.

I also picked-up the stuff to make a slightly larger version to attempt to clean an old hatchet head I found while MDing.
 
Did it clean the back side also? I know on larger items that I clean it is more lind of sight, I have steel lined in a barrel and on some skillets that people use debar it will cause ghosting were you can see the outline of the debar on the skillet because the part that is directly across from the rebar gets cleaner. Those are larger pieces that will stay in up to a day sometimes, I have never done a small scale setup.
 
Did it clean the back side also? I know on larger items that I clean it is more lind of sight, I have steel lined in a barrel and on some skillets that people use debar it will cause ghosting were you can see the outline of the debar on the skillet because the part that is directly across from the rebar gets cleaner. Those are larger pieces that will stay in up to a day sometimes, I have never done a small scale setup.

Yes, and it was in a bit better shape than the front (started with less crud though). Reverse has about 75% less pitting. I'd have to imagine it's because it laid face-up the majority of the time, so the obverse took the brunt of the fertilizer.
 
cool little set up, i have a few i want to hit like this. my coin collection is worthless so i can imagine hurting anything.:no:
 
Here's a tip for you guys.....if you go to a place like Menards (where I shop, but Lowes, Home Depot, etc) don't buy "singles" of nuts & bolts, look at the packages of 5-10.

They wanted over $1 each for the SS bolts, I got a 4 or 5 pack for $2. Same with the nuts.
 
i recently learned that you are not supposed to use stainless due to some hazardous gassing.
an excerpt from an article i read.
** Note ** Stainless steel can be used because this material seems to last longer and cleans easier. BUT, concerns have been raised which propose that as the electrode breaks down, the chromium in stainless steel becomes a compound (hexavalent chromium) which ends up in the liquid (or as a gas in the bubbles) and there is the potential for the mist from the bath to become airborne and inhaled. LONG TERM exposure to the skin has been related to skin disorders and LONG TERM inhalation of fumes has been linked to lung cancer.
HOWEVER, the US Occupational Safety & Health Administration has a considerable write-up on Hexavalent Chromium (CrVI) and say CrVI is produced from the high tempertures produced when welding, grinding or melting stainless steel or other metals containing chromium. This has been echoed by people I have spoken to about this, all experienced, qualified PhD Chemists and Materials Engineers. I now believe that the temperatures that occur with electrolysis as described herein are not nearly high enough to pose a risk. If you disagree, send documentation written by qualified experts that address the process of electrolysis in a water bath. Heresay and rumours just don't cut it.
 
I have read about this several times. I have read research that shows that the electrolysis like we are using does not generate enough current to break down the stainless steel. If you read the second half of the info that you quoted it said that welding, grinding, etc can cause problems but electrolysis does not cause a problem. I know people from the Griswold and Wagner Society who have sent samples of water from their lye baths to labs and have never had CrVI detected.
 
OK..I have made my unit and its working! My question is what is your solution? I started using a salt solution and it worked good. Then I read about the arm and hammer laundry (sodium carbonate) the salt is way better. I think I may need to get the concentration better. Can anyone help me out saving the expirements.
 
I have read about this several times. I have read research that shows that the electrolysis like we are using does not generate enough current to break down the stainless steel. If you read the second half of the info that you quoted it said that welding, grinding, etc can cause problems but electrolysis does not cause a problem. I know people from the Griswold and Wagner Society who have sent samples of water from their lye baths to labs and have never had CrVI detected.
thats good to hear... i was wanting to use one.
 
OK..I have made my unit and its working! My question is what is your solution? I started using a salt solution and it worked good. Then I read about the arm and hammer laundry (sodium carbonate) the salt is way better. I think I may need to get the concentration better. Can anyone help me out saving the expirements.

I just added some, maybe a level teaspoon? I haven't done enough to say. I just threw this one together out of boredom.
 
1 tablespoon per gallon is the recommendation for the sodium carbonate. It doesn't have to be exact but if it is too low then you wont get enough current to the piece. If you add way too much the the solution will absord too much of the current and won't be as efficient.
 
Back
Top Bottom