booker
Forum Supporter
How good is a B H Tracker 2 and does it do a good job ?
B H Tracker 2
- Thread starter booker
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ModernDayWarrior
Full Member
I suggest the Ace 250, Prizm III, or Tesoro Compadre or Silver Max, to start with.
Florida Tabdigger
Elite Member
I have used the Bounty Hunter Landstar for many years and love it. I looked up the tracker II and it looks like it would not be a very good one. I would recommend spending more money and getting something nicer. People seem to be happy with the ACE 250 from Garrett...has a lot of features and is priced right. Personally I would get a Bounty Hunter Sharp Shooter II or Landstar...If mine were to quit on me, I would go right out and replace it with another. But then again, I am bias toward Bounty Hunter (but not the tracker II)
booker
Forum Supporter
Thanks I knew someone who had a tracker cheap and seemed to cheap lol so checking to see what others said
obxfishnuts
New Member
Booker,
I currently have a BH Tracker II that my wife got me for Christmas. I have used it on the beaches at Nags Head, N.C. and have found a gazillion rusty nails, pulltabs, and a 100 miles of rusty sand fence, and some clad coins and a few fishing sinkers.
Using it around the old house next door I have found a 1943 wheat penny and a 1953 nickel as well as some neat old stuff.
I have been very pleased with this detector's performace as it's a "starter" for me and I'm already saving money to get an upgrade to either a WHite's Beachmaster ID or a MInelab Excal at TonyCT's reccomendation for what my useage will be. I trust his knowledge and experiece in helping me choose another detector when I'm ready to do so.
All that said I've been very pleased with the performance of the one I have but I'm really looking forward to an upgrade soon cause I want more power and technology working for me.
obxfishnuts
I currently have a BH Tracker II that my wife got me for Christmas. I have used it on the beaches at Nags Head, N.C. and have found a gazillion rusty nails, pulltabs, and a 100 miles of rusty sand fence, and some clad coins and a few fishing sinkers.
Using it around the old house next door I have found a 1943 wheat penny and a 1953 nickel as well as some neat old stuff.
I have been very pleased with this detector's performace as it's a "starter" for me and I'm already saving money to get an upgrade to either a WHite's Beachmaster ID or a MInelab Excal at TonyCT's reccomendation for what my useage will be. I trust his knowledge and experiece in helping me choose another detector when I'm ready to do so.
All that said I've been very pleased with the performance of the one I have but I'm really looking forward to an upgrade soon cause I want more power and technology working for me.
obxfishnuts
booker
Forum Supporter
Hope you get to upgrade soon 
Florida Tabdigger
Elite Member
Ironically a guy I work with brought one to work and wanted me to check it out a few days ago...I have to admit that I was impressed with its depth...a good 5 inches on a nickle(more than I expected). The biggest drawback was when you set it up to detect nickles it gives good signals on iron. I didn't play with it long enough to learn what the meter was telling me though. You should find lots a goodies with it.
"1943 Penny
In recent years a "1943 S" (San Francisco Mint) copper coin has gone for about $60,000 dollars at auction. I remember the prices from the P (Philadelphia) mint ranging from around $10,000 many years ago to $73,000 in recent times. There are many counterfeits of this coin. Source
The easiest way to determine if a 1943 one cent is made of steel, and not copper, is to use a magnet. If it sticks to the magnet, it is not copper and is worth about 50 cents. If it does not stick, the coin might be of copper and should be authenticated by an expert. Source
Only forty 1943 copper-alloy cents are known to remain in existence. Coin experts speculate that they were struck by accident when copper-alloy 1-cent blanks remained in the press hopper when production began on the new steel pennies. Source"
In recent years a "1943 S" (San Francisco Mint) copper coin has gone for about $60,000 dollars at auction. I remember the prices from the P (Philadelphia) mint ranging from around $10,000 many years ago to $73,000 in recent times. There are many counterfeits of this coin. Source
The easiest way to determine if a 1943 one cent is made of steel, and not copper, is to use a magnet. If it sticks to the magnet, it is not copper and is worth about 50 cents. If it does not stick, the coin might be of copper and should be authenticated by an expert. Source
Only forty 1943 copper-alloy cents are known to remain in existence. Coin experts speculate that they were struck by accident when copper-alloy 1-cent blanks remained in the press hopper when production began on the new steel pennies. Source"
