Headphones

Impedance[edit source]
Headphones are available with low or high impedance (typically measured at 1 kHz). Low-impedance headphones are in the range 16 to 32 ohms and high-impedance headphones are about 100-600 ohms.[5] As the impedance of a pair of headphones increases, more voltage but less current is required to drive it, and the loudness of the headphones for a given voltage decreases. In recent years, impedance of newer headphones has generally decreased to accommodate lower voltages available on battery powered CMOS-based portable electronics. This results in headphones that can be more efficiently driven by battery powered electronics. Consequently, newer amplifiers are based on designs with relatively low output impedance.
The impedance of headphones is of concern because of the output limitations of amplifiers. A modern pair of headphones is driven by an amplifier, with lower impedance headphones presenting a larger load. Amplifiers are not ideal; they also have some output impedance that limits the amount of power they can provide. In order to ensure an even frequency response, adequate damping factor, and undistorted sound, an amplifier should have an output impedance less than 1/8 that of the headphones it is driving (and ideally as low as possible).[6] If output impedance is large compared to the impedance of the headphones, significantly higher distortion will be present.[7] Therefore, lower impedance headphones will tend to be louder and more efficient, but will also demand a more capable amplifier. Higher impedance headphones will be more tolerant of amplifier limitations, but will produce less volume for a given output level.
Historically, many headphones had relatively high impedance, often over 500 ohms in order to operate well with high impedance tube amplifiers. In contrast, modern transistor amplifiers can have very low output impedance, enabling lower impedance headphones. Unfortunately, this means that older audio amplifiers or stereos often produce poor quality output on some modern, low impedance headphones. In this case, an external headphone amplifier may be beneficial.

gotta give the source man:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headphones
 
Headphones designed for metal detecting are not the same as other types of headphones....

Some metal detectors are configured for mono sound output, and include a mono headphone jack.

If you insert stereo plugs into a mono jack, only one speaker will be functional, causing detector tones to be heard in only one speaker making it harder to hear the little nuances in the different tones.

Stereo headphones can be either of the sealed or open-air variety, while metal detector headphones are always sealed...Sealed headphones block outside sounds allowing you to hear the softer tones that are missed by open-air stereo headphones.

Using open-air stereo headphones on a metal detector can limit hearing sensitivity, resulting in potentially inaudible low-volume tones and missed treasures.:cool:
 
I use a pair of higher end ear buds from Etymotic. For volume control I went to Radio Shack and for $10 I bought an inline volume controller. The big mickey mouse ear headphones are nice but it's too dang hot to wear them here in AZ. Proper size/fitting earbuds are just as good as headphones.

I would submit that if the heat discourages the use of over the ear headphones, then ear buds are, by definition, "better". One should not base their choice of detector strictly on reported specifications, nor their choice of earphones. The most expensive, highest performance gizmo is absolutely worthless if you won't use it.

Huh??? He made his headphones from items that are used to make music headphones. So why are his better for metal detecting than music headphones? I must have missed the point.:?:

My real point is that there are headphones specifically designed to be used metal detecting. My wordy explanation was to point out what goes into a set of purpose built headphones.
To answer your question, I'd say that the higher impedance speakers, noise limiter, and heavier duty componentry (such as thicker wires, larger connectors, and thicker walled cups) are what differentiates detecting headphones from audiophile headphones. Please keep in mind, in order to compare apples to apples, you'd have to compare a set of Sun Ray Pro Gold headphones to a pair of Beats Solo headphones (for example). Even though the Beats retail for $75.00 USD more than the Sun Ray's, they are obviously much less durable.
If, on the other hand, you compare a set of JVC HARX300 headphones from Walmart ($17.60 USD) to a set of White's Star Lite headphones ($24.95 USD), the JVC's would seem to be comparable. Of course, the JVC's cable is not coiled, it's plug is only 3.5mm, and the headband is not padded at all. Both detectors do use speakers with 32 ohms impedance, the White's have a coiled cord, a 1/4" 90 degree plug, and at least some padding on the headband. So for $7.00 USD more, I'd have to go with the White's, at least in this instance. Not for superior sound, because I figure they're going to sound very close to the same, but for the durability.
I've used a lot of words in this post - far more than I'd intended. I sure hope I managed to satisfactorily address your question with them.
 
I have an F2 coming and I have all the accessories except for a set of headphones. I really dont want to spend a lot of money on headphones. I was thinking of going to Walmart and buying a $20 or $30 pair of Sonys or something in this range.
Would those be OK or do I need to pay out the big bucks and get Eagles or Gray Ghost. Im not sure if I want to shell out that much right now.

I just realized the F2 lacks both a volume control and a threshold. For that detector, I would specifically NOT recommend Grey Ghosts, SunRays, Jolly Rogers, Killer Bees, or the like.
I DO recommend Garrett Deluxe headphones. They have dual volume controls and leatherette ear pads. They are available at KellyCo for $26.00 USD. They are going to be more durable than the headphones you would get at Walmart, and provide you with the volume control you need with your detector.
 
I own several brands of headphones. I get the best sound out of a pair of whites royal gt's. Like them better than my grey ghosts and sunray pro golds.
 
I just realized the F2 lacks both a volume control and a threshold. For that detector, I would specifically NOT recommend Grey Ghosts, SunRays, Jolly Rogers, Killer Bees, or the like.
I DO recommend Garrett Deluxe headphones
. They have dual volume controls and leatherette ear pads. They are available at KellyCo for $26.00 USD. They are going to be more durable than the headphones you would get at Walmart, and provide you with the volume control you need with your detector.
Just curious why you would say that, the Grey Ghosts, SunRay's,Jolly Rogers,etc. have volume controls and they are better headphones than the Garrett's in my opinion.
 
Just curious why you would say that, the Grey Ghosts, SunRay's,Jolly Rogers,etc. they have volume controls and they are better headphones than the Garrett's in my opinion.

+1 on the question? I have owned both Killer B's and Grey Ghosts and have used them on machines without volume control. That is what the volume knob is for? and what does threshold have to do with the type of headphones you use?
 
Just curious why you would say that, the Grey Ghosts, SunRay's,Jolly Rogers,etc. have volume controls and they are better headphones than the Garrett's in my opinion.

+1 on the question? I have owned both Killer B's and Grey Ghosts and have used them on machines without volume control. That is what the volume knob is for? and what does threshold have to do with the type of headphones you use?

I'm not inferring they are all anything less than fine headphones.
However, the concept behind using threshold to hunt is to set the threshold as low as you possibly can and still hear it. This means that if the detector has a volume control, it should be all the way up, threshold should be as far down as possible, and the headphones should be controlling how loud your target signals and threshold are in your ear after processing. This is why a noise limiter is an important component to a good set of headphones.
A beep-dig machine doesn't worry about threshold, so it is sufficient to control the signal volume through the detector (if present) or the headphones if the detector doesn't have a volume control. In this case, volume controls on both would be redundant.
Finally, in this instance, the OP has purchased a Fisher F2. This detector sells new for $200.00 USD or less, brand new. I see no valid reason for recommending a set of headphones that cost half or more of the price of the detector itself. That is why I didn't recommend the White's Royal GT's or similar, either. At $50.00 USD, there isn't enough of a performance gain to worry about, but the $25.00 USD price difference can pay for a digging pouch, a pair of gloves, and knee pads.
Hope this helps!
 
I'm not inferring they are all anything less than fine headphones.
However, the concept behind using threshold to hunt is to set the threshold as low as you possibly can and still hear it. This means that if the detector has a volume control, it should be all the way up, threshold should be as far down as possible, and the headphones should be controlling how loud your target signals and threshold are in your ear after processing. This is why a noise limiter is an important component to a good set of headphones.
A beep-dig machine doesn't worry about threshold, so it is sufficient to control the signal volume through the detector (if present) or the headphones if the detector doesn't have a volume control. In this case, volume controls on both would be redundant.
Finally, in this instance, the OP has purchased a Fisher F2. This detector sells new for $200.00 USD or less, brand new. I see no valid reason for recommending a set of headphones that cost half or more of the price of the detector itself. That is why I didn't recommend the White's Royal GT's or similar, either. At $50.00 USD, there isn't enough of a performance gain to worry about, but the $25.00 USD price difference can pay for a digging pouch, a pair of gloves, and knee pads.
Hope this helps!

That kind of makes sense. Nothing wrong with redundant, but good point on the price.
 
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