Electrolysis question?

Joshsfp1

Cathode and Anode are confusing alright.

This is how I do it to keep it straight, in my mind anyways.

Simply remember that current flows from Negative to Positive. The current flow is what slowly chips away at the built up crud on your find.

The item to be cleaned should always connected to the Negative polarity of your power source.

The positive lead in my setup is connected to an old stainless steel spoon or fork whatever you happen to have laying around. ( Dont use a good one! )

Hope this helps.

TonyK
 
Yeah, I understand how it works and all for the most part. What I'm not real clear on is if for example I've got a brass or copper piece I'm cleaning does the anode or positive connection also need to be copper or brass. Or can I sacrafice and old piece of angle iron I have laying around?
 
Yeah, I understand how it works and all for the most part. What I'm not real clear on is if for example I've got a brass or copper piece I'm cleaning does the anode or positive connection also need to be copper or brass. Or can I sacrafice and old piece of angle iron I have laying around?

In the first Youtube at about 8:00 he talks about it should not matter the color will come out of the coin. He used pure carbon on the positive connection to start. I suggest if you don't get a reply here to post a note on the Youtube link and see if you can get the answer. [email protected] or facebook. Good Luck.
 
electrically, it shouldnt matter. When I started I would use nails and door hinges. While they worked, they sure polluted the solution i had mixed up to conduct the current. Stainless steel keeps things cleaner for me.

If you want to play around some, you could reverse the current and perhaps use a copper penny to plate a clad quarter or dime etc.

Someone else may have other experiences, mine is that the anode has no bearing on the effectiveness. Your mpg may vary.

I would also like to warn folks that items that are plated or with gilt, be warned the plating can be removed.
 
Electrolysis Dutch Oven

Here is a project I did last weekend. The lid took 3 hours, and the pot took, two 3 hour treatments, I had to reset the anode inside the pot to get it closer to the inside rust.
The key was Arm & Hammer Super Washing Powder. available at Walmart, but you need to ask for it. It is not in the detergent area, but with seasonal items.
 

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I'm pretty new to understanding this concept but it seems to be very effective. What are some of the negatives related to the process? Would it be wise to do this on an older, possibly more valuable coin to clean it up or would doing so somehow take away some of the value?

Might be a stupid question but oh well, thanks and HH out there!
 
I'm pretty new to understanding this concept but it seems to be very effective. What are some of the negatives related to the process? Would it be wise to do this on an older, possibly more valuable coin to clean it up or would doing so somehow take away some of the value?

Might be a stupid question but oh well, thanks and HH out there!

I wouldn't use it on any coin I cared about, it tends to pit things.
There will be other opinioins, some say watch it carefully, I say try it yourself on some indian or LC and see for yourself.

I did try it myself, and that is why I would NOT use electrolysis on any silver / copper coin pretty much ever.
 
I wouldn't use it on any coin I cared about, it tends to pit things.
There will be other opinioins, some say watch it carefully, I say try it yourself on some indian or LC and see for yourself.

I did try it myself, and that is why I would NOT use electrolysis on any silver / copper coin pretty much ever.

Thanks Rick, I appreciate the feedback. I'll have to test it out this weekend and see for myself. I've heard of people using pure olive oil and letting it sit for weeks as it eventually softens the corrosion...just not sure I have the patience for it!
 
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