How does a Coin Probe work?

Actually, since making them, I seldom use them. I find they're basically useless on a coin. About the only time I do is one is just to verify I've located a mashed can (which you can generally tell by lifting the coil, to tell you're over a much larger than coin-sized object). That said, depending on if I'm detecting a trash-laden site, I'll pass if I am. If on an older site, I'll dig it just to be sure I'm not passing on a larger relic (or something worthwhile).

I'd say the length is about 12", and I'd say the 'glass one is more sensitive.

MIG, you could use whatever you had, and grind the weld to make the profile more slim (which I'd done to this one after the pic). I use this as much if not more than my trowel.


Thanks for the info Gauntlet !

Think I might try to make a probe, using a fiberglass reflector post and golf ball handle, and see if I'm any good at using it. :roll:

So far, I've been using my Lesche digger to cut a 3-sided trap door and following up with my Vibra-Probe 570 to locate the exact position of the target, then back to the Lesche for final recovery.

I bought the Miller Gold Seal 225 Amp Arc (Stick) welder. Now years later at age 70 and a long time diabetic, I'm too shaky to run a nice bead anymore, but can still do a series of spot welds for small projects that don't require super strength. Like you, I can always grind to pretty-up a messy weld. ;)

ToddB64
 
They're simple and cheap to make, so even if you do and decide you won't use it, you're not out but a buck or two.

If you get good at pinpointing with your MD, or use your PinPointer before digging, and can get an exact location with it, that screwdriver is great for getting under a coin and lifting it up. It also takes minimal effort to push the sod back down to make it about impossible to tell where you were.

Try using a shorter piece of electrode, the shorter it is the less it will wander with an unsteady hand. Also try to find something to rest the heel of your hand on for additional support, which I generally try to do myself.

When all else fails, grind it :lol: Like you said, not a lot of stress on it, so you should be fine.
 
I use a bamboo chopstick. The kind that you get in a Japanese or Chinese restaurant that has a rounded tip. They are surprisingly durable and cheap to replace. Wood versus metal, so the chances of scratching and damaging a coin is very low. I also have a brass probe from my early days of MDing when I was in high school in the 70's, but I rarely use it now that I have the chopstick that also doubles as a marker for digging (like some folks do with golf tees), it doesn't set off the detector like brass would. Keep an open mind and try it! :yes:

I just might try that! Thanks!
 
Silversmith45,

Neat idea !

What length should the 5/32" dia. brass rod extend after being screwed into the ball-shaped drawer pull ?

In other words, what length have you found to work best ?

Thanks ! ;)

Todd

Mine usually run around seven inches but there's no set rule. What ever you are comfortable with. Here are a couple I've made, one with the sheath.

coin probe.gif
KS3.jpg
 
They're simple and cheap to make, so even if you do and decide you won't use it, you're not out but a buck or two.

If you get good at pinpointing with your MD, or use your PinPointer before digging, and can get an exact location with it, that screwdriver is great for getting under a coin and lifting it up. It also takes minimal effort to push the sod back down to make it about impossible to tell where you were.

Try using a shorter piece of electrode, the shorter it is the less it will wander with an unsteady hand. Also try to find something to rest the heel of your hand on for additional support, which I generally try to do myself.

When all else fails, grind it :lol: Like you said, not a lot of stress on it, so you should be fine.

Gauntlet,

Thanks for the helps.

I discovered the shorter piece of electrode trick early-on. I would cut the stick in half by turning it against the corner of my bench grinding wheel and then snapping it apart. Then grinding off about 3/4" of the coating on the front-end piece for the clamp jaws.

I also discovered the hand support trick. Using the correct rod and amp setting on the machine is also important of course. Despite all of these helps and taking a welding course at the local High School, my weld runs never did smooth out enough to suit me, but my test box was air-tight in the water tub ! ;)

Todd
 
I just used my coin probe this morning, at the old elementary school. They only allow using a slit method. Slower than a plug, but still works..
GL & HH
 

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I just used my coin probe this morning, at the old elementary school. They only allow using a slit method. Slower than a plug, but still works..
GL & HH

Hi Nitelord :tiphat:

Did you make your own coin probe or buy ?

What is the little silver-colored bushing or whatever where the shaft enters the golf ball ? Is it a threaded insert ? (I plan to make my own.)

Nice photo........ good looking probe :waytogo:

Thanks for your reply !

ToddB64
 
Longer stronger coin probe?

I am new to metal detecting and have only been out a couple of times. At 50 next month I am out of shape and getting up and down to dig with my garret edge digger tool has really worn me out after an hour of finding crushed pop cans and a few pennies and dimes. I plan on joining a local gym but dont want to have to give up metal detecting.

I was told about using a knife or similar object as a coin probe. With my Garret Ace 350 and Pro-pointer it seems to be fine but getting up off the ground is hard for me.

What about pin pointers (with an extention) and/or coin probe that are 2-3 feet (or make my own from a brass or steel rod from Lowes or something - prefer to buy something) so that I dont have to get up and down so much unless I know for sure exactly where the object is. I was also thinking getting a leshe shovel or garret one (longer length than a hand edge digger) would help from getting up and down unless I need to.

Any comments about this?
 
I know this is an old post but how about making one with the golf ball method and sleeving the brass rod with steel brake line to reduce flexing.. or getting a wooden dowel your desired length and drilling the center the accept the brass rod just an idea to help you out. I'm 25 and it hurts to get up from my knees after a few hours...can't imagine when and if I double my age
 
from a hardware store plumbing department. [ different lengths are available.]

Use one of the threaded ends to screw into whatever handle you want. Nice piece of a hardwood tree limb with smaller hole drilled in an end works great. Use a drop of wood glue in the hole & screw the rod into the wood handle. File other threaded end & remove its threads, to keep from scratching your finds. Round off the tip & you have made your own probe.

https://www.google.com/search?q=toi...t+float+rod&tbm=shop&spd=12181324509390886539
 
I got a section of 5/16" .313 brass rod for my probe ( You AINT going to bend that thing) It's only about 6" long and have a couple of layers of plastic/vinyl caps at the top. Have considered a small solid brass ball as a replacement for them, or a golf ball core if I could get one out without damage (not an easy task !)
 
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