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  #21  
Old 02-15-2017, 05:04 PM
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Well the sabres sucked like usual. One fight and that was about it for the action. Couldn't complain about the seats. Section 110 seats 29 and 30 right on the end of the Isle made for easy beer runs. I rarely drink so I didn't have to spend a small fortune on those over priced tall boys I can get for $1 at any corner store in downtown Niagara Falls. Anyways.....this is the coin now. Slow process but i'll keep at it till shes as clean as I can get her.
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  #22  
Old 02-16-2017, 01:07 AM
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Smile Would you clean it? If so, how?

Thanks for the updates on your progress. How is the face of the coin looking? At least you don't seem to be damaging the coin.

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  #23  
Old 02-16-2017, 10:30 AM
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Very nice job. Thats the least damaging method. If it has pourous holes on the obverse of liberties face try copper shavings to dust over it. (I heard that helps)
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  #24  
Old 02-16-2017, 08:37 PM
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Question

Have you figured out what the crud on the one half is composed of?

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  #25  
Old 02-17-2017, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by foreverRich View post
Thanks for the updates on your progress. How is the face of the coin looking? At least you don't seem to be damaging the coin.
The front isn't changing much at all. It may be thinning the green though. I feel like I can see the outline of the face better.


Originally Posted by Crackerjack View post
Have you figured out what the crud on the one half is composed of?
If you're talking about the back, I think it may be the soil? Sandy loamish.....more sandy where the coin was found. The flat button in the same hole wasn't covered in it though I don't think. I'll have to go back and check the post.
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  #26  
Old 02-17-2017, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by SevenOneSix View post
The front isn't changing much at all. It may be thinning the green though. I feel like I can see the outline of the face better.



If you're talking about the back, I think it may be the soil? Sandy loamish.....more sandy where the coin was found. The flat button in the same hole wasn't covered in it though I don't think. I'll have to go back and check the post.
No, I mean the crud covering Liberty's face.

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  #27  
Old 02-17-2017, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by DIGGER27 View post
The green patina we see on older copper coins, most anything copper really is called verdigris....yours has gone way beyond that though and that dark stuff is corrosive in this amount.
Underneath the coin's surface is already etched and wrecked but most coin cleaning sites say there is one thing you might try.
Supposedly drugstores carry something called Vitrolin copper cleaning soap.
It comes in a liquid version for cleaning copper pans and I guess a less harsh soap infused with copper for use on humans.
A moist soft rag run over the soap and just dabbled on the bad parts might remove some of it...the harsher stuff might work or it might have undesired results.

I fear the coin is as good as it gets but it is yours to try.
A uniform green patina is called verdigris...the ugly hard spot is Bronze disease
http://www.metaldetectingworld.com/c...3_patina.shtml

The area underneath is usually pitted. This method is hard to do, the results my not be everything you hope for.

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  #28  
Old 02-17-2017, 03:45 PM
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I have never met so terrible advices on coin cleaning... Guys, are you still living in medieval ages? oil, freezing etc

1. Get soaked in distilled water, keep coin at the very high position but covered with water. This will allow salts to fall down. It would be great if coin + distilled water to be placed in very warm place and then cooled / 2-3 times. Then coin should be turned over. Soaking 12 hours for 1 side and 12 hour for other side. Soaking more than 24 hours is no way good for a coin

2. This coin could be dried by placing into dry and just place

3. Once dried get it soaked under vacuum into 3% solution of BTA for 24-48 hours

4. Just dry in dry and warm place for 12-24 hours

5. Soak under vacuum in 3% paraloid b72 solution -> dry -> soak 5 paraloid b72 -> 7-9% paraloid b72 solution.

Guys, CHEMISTRY IS YOUR FRIEND!

That's how coins are preserved for future mechanical cleaning under stereoscopic microscope

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  #29  
Old 02-17-2017, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SuchMuch View post
I have never met so terrible advices on coin cleaning... Guys, are you still living in medieval ages? oil, freezing etc

1. Get soaked in distilled water, keep coin at the very high position but covered with water. This will allow salts to fall down. It would be great if coin + distilled water to be placed in very warm place and then cooled / 2-3 times. Then coin should be turned over. Soaking 12 hours for 1 side and 12 hour for other side. Soaking more than 24 hours is no way good for a coin

2. This coin could be dried by placing into dry and just place

3. Once dried get it soaked under vacuum into 3% solution of BTA for 24-48 hours

4. Just dry in dry and warm place for 12-24 hours

5. Soak under vacuum in 3% paraloid b72 solution -> dry -> soak 5 paraloid b72 -> 7-9% paraloid b72 solution.

Guys, CHEMISTRY IS YOUR FRIEND!

That's how coins are preserved for future mechanical cleaning under stereoscopic microscope
I dont know what any of this means. The only time I use a vacuum is to purge butane. Other than that, im clueless here.
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  #30  
Old 02-18-2017, 09:02 PM
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Took the coin outside to get some photos with real light.

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  #31  
Old 02-20-2017, 05:57 PM
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May be bad advice but I would have shocked the !!!! out of that thing and it would be clean in about 10 minutes. (Electrolysis)

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  #32  
Old 02-20-2017, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by daddyflea View post
May be bad advice but I would have shocked the !!!! out of that thing and it would be clean in about 10 minutes. (Electrolysis)
You're not joking. It would be so much easier to do that but it would also change the color of the coin and I wanted to avoid that.
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  #33  
Old 02-21-2017, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by SevenOneSix View post
You're not joking. It would be so much easier to do that but it would also change the color of the coin and I wanted to avoid that.
I don't think so Electrolysis if left too long causes pitting but I never noticed a color change. But then again I am Color blind.

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  #34  
Old 02-23-2017, 08:55 AM
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From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

3% solution of BTA
Benzotriazole is an effective corrosion inhibitor for copper and its alloys by preventing undesirable surface reactions. It is known that a passive layer, consisting of a complex between copper and benzotriazole, is formed when copper is immersed in a solution containing benzotriazole. The passive layer is insoluble in aqueous and many organic solutions. There is a positive correlation between the thickness of the passive layer and the efficiency of preventing corrosion.[9] BTA is used in conservation, notably for the treatment of bronze disease. The exact structure of the copper-BTA complex is controversial and many proposals have been suggested.

3% paraloid b72 solution
B-72 is a durable and non-yellowing acrylic resin, which can be described chemically as an ethyl-methacrylate copolymer. It is soluble in acetone, ethanol, toluene, and xylenes, among other solvents and solvent mixtures.
One of the major advantages of B-72 as a consolidant is that it is stronger and harder than polyvinyl acetate without being extremely brittle. This adhesive is more flexible than many of the other typically used adhesives and tolerates more stress and strain on a join than most others. The major drawbacks to using B-72 are related to its handling properties: as in the case of other acrylic resins it is difficult to apply as an adhesive and to manipulate with precision.
The most suitable solvent for B-72 is acetone. However, solvent mixtures with various proportions of acetone, ethanol, and toluene are frequently used to alter the working time of the resin and to produce slightly different properties (hardness and flexibility, e.g.) in the set resin. Unlike cellulose nitrate, B-72 does not need additives like plasticizers to stabilize its durability. Fumed colloidal silica can be added to help with the workability of the resin. Research shows that the silica better distributes the stress and strain that occurs during evaporation of a solvent and during the setting of the adhesive film.
Because of its transparency and versatility conservators, led by Stephen Koob of the Corning Museum of Glass, have recently begun to use cast sheets of B-72 as a fill material in glass objects.

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