GPP-AT as compared to Original GPP or GPP-II

OleSarge · Aug 26, 2016

For the 2nd time I drowned my Garrett Pro Pointer :blush:

.
And, for the 2nd time I broke the switch while disassembling it to dry out the circuit board :pullhair:

.
No sweat there, I called Mary at Garrett this morning, and even though the GPP has been out of warranty for over a year, Garrett put a new switch and speaker, free of charge, in the mail for me today :thumbsup:

.
So, in a few days I'll have my (original) GPP back in operation :clapping:

.
The dilemma here is that yesterday evening I ordered a new Garrett Water Proof Pro Pointer AT (AKA Garrett Carrot) and am now wondering if it was a good choice.
I met another MDer in the park today and he was using a brand new Pro Pointer AT, and it's sensitivity and overall simplicity of operation was back seat to my old GPP.
Has anyone made the change from the original GPP to the GPP AT, and, if so, what is your opinion of how the two compare.
I had also considered the GPP-II, but since I've drowned my original twice, the waterproof feature of the GPP-AT was a tie breaker.
Any opinions here regarding choosing the GPP-AT over the GPP-II?

AT Pro/GPP/Fiskars Diggers

cellrdwellr · Aug 26, 2016

I think the new carrot knocks the sox off the old one! It has y different settings. Sound and vibrate 1,2,3 and just vibrate 1,2,3. I'm guessing hes new to his so isnt used to using it yet. Once you find the sensitivity setting that your accustomed to you will love it. I've used both propointers, and IMO the garrett carrot is the best handheld pinpointer on the market at that price. Oh and you won't have to worry about drowning this one! :yes:

HH!

OleSarge · Aug 26, 2016

cellrdwellr said:
I think the new carrot knocks the sox off the old one! It has y different settings. Sound and vibrate 1,2,3 and just vibrate 1,2,3. I'm guessing hes new to his so isnt used to using it yet. Once you find the sensitivity setting that your accustomed to you will love it. I've used both propointers, and IMO the garrett carrot is the best handheld pinpointer on the market at that price. Oh and you won't have to worry about drowning this one! HH!

Thanks for the helpful input cellrdweller.
I had bid on some GPP-2's on ebay and was really torn between sticking with a format I was familiar with, and totally satisfied with using, but that water factor link between my original GPP and the GPP-2s kept resurfacing.
After looking at the other pin pointers available, regardless of price, the decision to stick with a Garrett product was a done deal from the beginning.
Admittedly, I killed my old GPP with my toothbrush and water, but it has been a great friend for the past four years and I simply can't just bury it.
As I said, Mary, at Garrett's, is sending me a new switch and speaker to infuse a new life into my old GPP and it will still be my go-to pin pointer until I work the bugs out of the GPP-AT.
And, since it has already paid for itself countless times over, this extension to its life is sweet icing on the cake.
My experience with the other metal detecting equipment companies is zilch, so I can't compliment or criticize them, but the interaction I've had with Garrett on matters such as bubbles under the face plate decal on my GPP and my other GPP drowning episode has been only positive.
I'll post more later on my experience with the GPP-AT.....thanks again!

AT Pro/GPP/Fiskars Diggers

Just one more · Aug 26, 2016

You may already know this but for those who don't. The switch HAS to be in the down position before removing the board or putting it back in or it will break. Even when it's down it sometimes pops back up and you don't realize it. So after replacing the switch, you can put a piece of tape over the switch to hold it down while pushing the board back into the case. Then remove the tape of course.

calabash digger · Aug 26, 2016

carrot hands down the best of all them.

OleSarge · Aug 27, 2016

Just one more said:
You may already know this but for those who don't. The switch HAS to be in the down position before removing the board or putting it back in or it will break. Even when it's down it sometimes pops back up and you don't realize it. So after replacing the switch, you can put a piece of tape over the switch to hold it down while pushing the board back into the case. Then remove the tape of course.

calabash digger said:
carrot hands down the best of all them.

Hey Just one more! When I set out to do something I always go just a little further than my comfort zone allows.
I had removed the board with no problem, 10-4 on the down switch, and had let the circuit board dry out a bit.
I hadn't considered the tape but will sure use it with this new switch because it makes good sense.
But, the thing that TKO'd my switch this time was totally predictable and absolutely dumb.
When I reinserted the circuit board into its little grooves it slid right in and nearly reached the point where the switch is centered in the hole.
But, apparently the wires got caught between the side of the circuit board and the case and it jammed in place.
A gentle pull with a pair of needle nose pliars used carefully on the outer rim of the battery case usually pulls the board right out with no problem.
I had the needle nosed pliars right there but I had a colossal brain fart and grabbed a screw driver instead.
Warning, the results of prying a GPP circuit board free from the case using a screwdriver against the switch isn't something which should be witnessed by the weak of heart.
However, with a great company like Garrett willing to take some of the sting out of a totally stupid mistake, I suppose I'll survive this one with, albeit they may be a little rancid, but otherwise some good memories :hornetsnest:

.

Thanks calabash digger. I'm looking forward to getting out and using a real pin pointer again.
I do think there will be a slight learning curve before I learn to use the GPP-AT at its full potential.

AT Pro/GPP/Fiskars Diggers

Just one more · Aug 27, 2016

OleSarge said:
Hey Just one more! When I set out to do something I always go just a little further than my comfort zone allows.
I had removed the board with no problem, 10-4 on the down switch, and had let the circuit board dry out a bit.
I hadn't considered the tape but will sure use it with this new switch because it makes good sense.
But, the thing that TKO'd my switch this time was totally predictable and absolutely dumb.
When I reinserted the circuit board into its little grooves it slid right in and nearly reached the point where the switch is centered in the hole.
But, apparently the wires got caught between the side of the circuit board and the case and it jammed in place.
A gentle pull with a pair of needle nose pliars used carefully on the outer rim of the battery case usually pulls the board right out with no problem.
I had the needle nosed pliars right there but I had a colossal brain fart and grabbed a screw driver instead.
Warning, the results of prying a GPP circuit board free from the case using a screwdriver against the switch isn't something which should be witnessed by the weak of heart.
However, with a great company like Garrett willing to take some of the sting out of a totally stupid mistake, I suppose I'll survive this one with, albeit they may be a little rancid, but otherwise some good memories.

Thanks calabash digger. I'm looking forward to getting out and using a real pin pointer again.
I do think there will be a slight learning curve before I learn to use the GPP-AT at its full potential.

AT Pro/GPP/Fiskars Diggers

Yeah those wires are a pain. I looped some dental floss around the wires and ran it through the switch hole to help pull them in. When the board won't go all the way in, sometimes that is the LED not lined up and going into it's hole. Use a small screwdriver or dowel to guide it in.

goodmore · Aug 27, 2016

At one time not too long ago Garrett ruled the pin pointer world. Things have changed. There are quite a few manufacturers to choose from with quality products.

OleSarge · Aug 29, 2016

Just one more said:
Yeah those wires are a pain. I looped some dental floss around the wires and ran it through the switch hole to help pull them in. When the board won't go all the way in, sometimes that is the LED not lined up and going into it's hole. Use a small screwdriver or dowel to guide it in.

goodmore said:
At one time not too long ago Garrett ruled the pin pointer world. Things have changed. There are quite a few manufacturers to choose from with quality products.

Thanks again Just one more. The dental floss is a great idea and I tried it today with some success.
My main fear here is that the tiny wires will break at the circuit board and there really is nothing to splice to if they need resoldered.
I'm about ready to explore the idea that the pick-up sensor is hot glued, rather than epoxied in place, and maybe I'll just take the whole shooting match out to replace the switch and speaker.

AT Pro/GPP/GPP-AT/Fiskars Diggers

Just one more · Aug 30, 2016

Yes the dental floss only helps to a point but it gets it going in the right direction.

I believe it's a ferrite rod and it's hot glued in the case. I read a post from what I think was some Russian guy saying that he dropped his PP and broke the ferrite rod, causing major falsing. And because they can't really get warranty work where he lives, he put the end of the PP in boiling water for 15 minutes and melted the glue, basically rejoining the rod and stopping the falsing. Take that with a grain of salt because I haven't seen that anywhere else but it seems feasible.

GPP-AT as compared to Original GPP or GPP-II

OleSarge

Elite Member

cellrdwellr

Elite Member

OleSarge

Elite Member

Just one more

Senior Member

calabash digger

Banned

OleSarge

Elite Member

Just one more

Senior Member

goodmore

OleSarge

Elite Member

Attachments

Just one more

Senior Member

Similar threads