Excalibur 2 mods

chris50ae

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Feb 28, 2017
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So I just got "my new to me" excalibur 2. I will be using it for some beach but mostly diving to between 40-100', maybe a little deeper sometimes. My question is, are the pinpoint and headphone mods worth it for diving and are they going to be waterproof to the depths i want. I dont want to drill an end cap for pinpoint wire and loose waterproof depth. My stock yellow phones sound pretty good, but if i modify a set for better beach use, are they gonna work at 40 to 100'. Also who would i talk to about the new modded end caps i keep seeing on the form. Thanks for any help and keep it beeping.
chris
 
What size coil do you have? If you have the 8" then a PP mod won't make much difference since the small coil hits about the same depth in either mode. I would just put peltor pads on the Koss phones. You take off the vinyl pads and glue the peltors on. They are thick and more comfortable.

It would concern me to think an IP68 switch would last. At diving depths it would almost certainly fail, but I am not an expert. :cool:
 
You need to own several excals:
One stock for diving
One modded for walking/wading
One for the shop, maybe 2 for the shop, one of each of the above.
Than there's coils. If you don't have the coil connector mod, you need more excals each with different coils.

Ask me how I know this.

You'll probably also want to get a Sovereign just for comparison purposes.

Yeah, also a PI just for comparison purposes.

There, I just mapped out your future.
 
It's a 10" coil. I have a CTX for dry land and beach. Haven't tried the stock phone under water yet but they sound pretty good on land.
 
I would say keep it stock for diving at those depths...
 
I would say keep it stock for diving at those depths...
This keeps the detector stock but makes it easier diving.
I put the detector on the shaft opposite of how it is usually positioned, also with a larger pinpoint knob,with the larger knob you can feel it and not turn the wrong knob in 0 visibility. With this setup I can very easily with one hand slide to the knob and change modes.
I also put sticky Hook valcro on my headphones to keep in place as it sticks to my hood very well and is louder as it is closer to your ears.
HHGL Jim
 

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BEFORE i took it deep........ id replace those O rings and have the tube pressure tested..... and leave it stock. Id have a back up modified for neck deep or shallower.

Dew
 
This keeps the detector stock but makes it easier diving.
I put the detector on the shaft opposite of how it is usually positioned, also with a larger pinpoint knob,with the larger knob you can feel it and not turn the wrong knob in 0 visibility. With this setup I can very easily with one hand slide to the knob and change modes.
I also put sticky Hook valcro on my headphones to keep in place as it sticks to my hood very well and is louder as it is closer to your ears.
HHGL Jim

I like those Jim, simple and made to increase the ease of hunting under. And I agree with dew, have those seals checked or pull the knobs and look at them with a scope.
 
I would say keep it stock for diving at those depths...
I am working on a mechanical pin point mod with a cable or linkage and a lever has anyone tried this? I will post pics of what I come up with when I am finished any thoughts I figure it could be used without violating warranty

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
 
I am working on a mechanical pin point mod with a cable or linkage and a lever has anyone tried this? I will post pics of what I come up with when I am finished any thoughts I figure it could be used without violating warranty

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
A few, .......

it does puts stress on the knob shaft tube. But have yet to see one crack the tube. But if it is a Excal II they crack without since there seems to be a small issue.
 
I am working on a mechanical pin point mod with a cable or linkage and a lever has anyone tried this? I will post pics of what I come up with when I am finished any thoughts I figure it could be used without violating warranty

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
I met a guy on the beach that had a wire he could pull like a gun trigger. It manually switched the pot from PP to Disc. The problem with that is the pot will wear out. This is a known problem. With a remote switch on the handle that electronically switches the mode you do not wear out the pot. That is why we do that. Like others said, diving puts a lot of pressure on the switch. I doubt it will hold out water past 10 feet but you could try it and let us know....
 
I met a guy on the beach that had a wire he could pull like a gun trigger. It manually switched the pot from PP to Disc. The problem with that is the pot will wear out. This is a known problem. With a remote switch on the handle that electronically switches the mode you do not wear out the pot. That is why we do that. Like others said, diving puts a lot of pressure on the switch. I doubt it will hold out water past 10 feet but you could try it and let us know....
Thanks I was thinking about the pressure on the knob trying to make a knob guard that will also ask as a stabilizer for the lever that will turn the knob will keep at it

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
 
I like those Jim, simple and made to increase the ease of hunting under. And I agree with dew, have those seals checked or pull the knobs and look at them with a scope.



Joe,

How often do you suggest checking the end cap o-rings on the main pod (as in ensuring they are properly greased up with Dow 111)?

...and do you re-use the shrink tube with aquaseal? I purchased some single wall 2" shrink tube (3:1) but it's 1/2 the thickness of the existing stuff on the pod. Do you have a specific brand/type you use?
 
Not often, the endcap orings hold up very well. I think a visual inspection once a year of all is good. But I have yet to have any that looked bad enough to replace.

On the shrink tube you will be fine, I use a small amount of aquaseal on the gap between the endcap and pod then the allens, all is sealed up tight. I get mine from MacMaster Carr...


7856K221
(Same as 7856K22)
Heat-Shrink Tubing 4 ft. Long, 2" ID Before Shrinking, Black
In stock at $18.44 Each
 
I have seen mods for external coil change are there any for headphones would be nice to use wireless when only hitting wet sand ?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
 
Not often, the endcap orings hold up very well. I think a visual inspection once a year of all is good. But I have yet to have any that looked bad enough to replace.



On the shrink tube you will be fine, I use a small amount of aquaseal on the gap between the endcap and pod then the allens, all is sealed up tight. I get mine from MacMaster Carr...





7856K221

(Same as 7856K22)

Heat-Shrink Tubing 4 ft. Long, 2" ID Before Shrinking, Black

In stock at $18.44 Each



Excellent thanks Joe!
 
Thanks I was thinking about the pressure on the knob trying to make a knob guard that will also ask as a stabilizer for the lever that will turn the knob will keep at it

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tapatalk
He took of his knob and used a piece of metal that fit in its place, like a little lever. Maybe it was plastic, don't remember. Yea, it was plastic. Probably from a hobby store that sells RC planes made for large servos. The control wire went into a small hole in the end. It was shaped like a tear drop washer if you can imagine the shape. I have no idea where he got it.
 
Excellent thanks Joe!
If you can get the original shrink off whole, you can put it back on with a couple wraps of electrical tape UNDER it. It will stay and is only for looks anyway. You do not need glue. If you glue it then you have to cut it off next time. Work smarter, not harder. :lol:
 
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