Etrac is great for... but what about...

The key is listening for the null that's through the target and it usually happens from one direction. That, the tone change, and just general experience, is what tells you which ones to leave alone. And something I've said forever is work your way to using fairly high sense and low disc, get used to it at that setting, and then basically lock it in for good. When you use the same settings it's like creating a base to work off of and you begin to understand the most subtle changes. The people who change settings, or worse programs, or even worse detectors, are always fighting to learn these little things and will probably never get there.

IP,

SHHHH, don't give away all the secrets! Leaves more deep silver and less rusty nails for us.

Greg
 
The key is listening for the null that's through the target and it usually happens from one direction. That, the tone change, and just general experience, is what tells you which ones to leave alone. And something I've said forever is work your way to using fairly high sense and low disc, get used to it at that setting, and then basically lock it in for good. When you use the same settings it's like creating a base to work off of and you begin to understand the most subtle changes. The people who change settings, or worse programs, or even worse detectors, are always fighting to learn these little things and will probably never get there.

Sounds good thanks for the info Patch. I have been hunting the 1952 high school all year and all I got so far was 2 silver dimes and 2 silver rings. (And all the clad that comes with it.) Feel like somethings not right with my Etrac settings sometimes:roll: I currently run Andys pattern now. Been messing around with deep on deep off, trash on trash off, I like Multi tones..Sens Auto +3 its gets up around 26-28 while hunting...Dunno
 
I was finding green quarters right next to iron at Malibu this past Friday. You just have to learn what the machine is telling you, forget the numbers and just listen.
 
How do you know the null is not a piece of iron right next to the silver dime???

Use the "minelab wiggle". If you suspect coins next to ferrous, then using a 1-2 inch wiggles of the coil as you slowly move over the target will typically get you a clean hit in one tiny area. The biggest giveaway on these is that you can get a clean hit, but the pinpoint keeps centering over the NULL. If you can get a wiggle hit, and you have a response on that spot in point (even if it gets stronger as you move away) then you should dig. Nails and wire will still fool you occasionally, but using this method, I have pulled some nice silver that others walk away from.

This method doesn't work well on deep coins. Anything close to or deeper than 6 inches needs a wider wiggle which defeats it's use next to iron.
 
The etrac will give a high pitch and then a null on a nail. In all metal it will give you a low grunt. always ignore any 50 con signals, they are always rusty iron. switch to all metal (blank screen) if you are not sure and it will grunt low every time.
 
always ignore any 50 con signals, they are always rusty iron.

Not at our SOCAL beaches. I hit green crusty clad quarters that bounce between 1-50 and 12-29 up to 12-48. Depends on the mineralization and there is that "halo" effect that often comes with time in the ground.
 
I still find the Long for the Multi-Tone works well in iron areas, and a small coil. The one place I am hunting had the original house burn down, so I am going to do some under the house hunting, because many ties they built the new houses on the old foundations here.
 
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