Making Your Carbon Fiber Shaft? (Looong!)

Ra1der5

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I've been swinging the WOT on the stock shaft for the Sov for a few months. I transferred the control box to my hip to lighten the load early on, but still found the setup a little heavy for my liking. I also wanted a second shaft so I could just attach the coil wire to the control box and go.

I entertained the idea of going with the "Black Widow", but my wife wouldn't have it! :laughing: I researched CanSlaw's version (where the h3ll is he?) and contacted Lawsonland to see how his was holding up. OBN suggested I stick with carbon fiber, so that's the direction I went.

First things first, I needed to know the inner and outer dimensions of the shaft to fit the coil support rod, handle, and arm rest. Knowing I hip mount and don't intend to adjust the shaft, I decided to use one tube for the entire length.

I purchased the Minelab ISO rod off eBay for $15 including shipping. The outside diameter of the portion to be inserted into the tube is 5/8" (0.625"). I recognized the inner diameter of the tube itself had to be slightly larger to not only allow the rod to be inserted, but also to achieve a proper bond gap. But how much :?: Here is a guide. The proper bond gap is between .007" and .014". So my inner diameter should be 0.650".

Next, I researched handles and elected to go with a bike handle extension bar. The least expensive I found were these off eBay at $13 including shipping. I searched and searched for handles that would be square to the shaft, but couldn't find one that was long enough to support my hand. The inner diameter of ALL bike extension handles I found is 7/8" (0.875"). The handles adjust slightly, so I knew a shaft with a 7/8" outside dimension would work.

So there you have it, I needed a shaft with an inner diameter 0.650" and outside diameter 0.875". There are several carbon fiber suppliers and all have several different options... uni-directional, filament wound, pultruded, sanded... here, just read this. The stock tubes were almost all 0.625"ID x 0.750"OD, or something very close. The ID would be tight, but sanding might achieve the proper bond gap. The OD was just wrong and the least expensive was $68 including shipping. :shock: "Honey! I'm thinking of going with a Black Widow". :sissyfight:

I set my eyes back to eBay. After a couple weeks of searching (Raiders don't quit), I found a 72" shaft 0.680" ID x 0.750"OD. Hmmm... the ID is only 3/100" off and if I could build up the shaft to support the handle... this could work! $51 later it's delivered.

But wait, I still need an armrest. Hey, that Garrett Ace 350 has a small shaft. I took the arm rest off. Put it next to the tube, and it fit like a glove. But yellow? :no: The only yellow I want to see is in my scoop. "Hello Garrett? Yes, I need a replacement arm rest for an AT Pro. Address? Uh huh, yes, thank you!" Click. YES! :thumbsup: Freebee!

I needed the shaft to be 44.5" plus 3.5" for the coil support rod totaling 48". I also needed to drill a 3/8" hole for the arm rest. Here are instructions for cutting and drilling carbon fiber.

After cutting and drilling, I attached the arm rest, then bonded the coil support rod with Gorilla Glue. In this sequence, the arm rest serves as a guide to ensure the coil rod is square to the shaft. Gorilla Glue expands 3-4 times the amount you apply, so you need to clamp the rod in place otherwise the glue will push the rod back out the tube. I attached bungee cords through the hole in the support rod and TAPED AND CLAMPED THEM SECURELY IN PLACE. I followed the bonding instructions for sanding and cleaning then liberally applied the Gorilla Glue to both the inside (yes inside) of the rod and the inside of the tube. After inserting the rod in the tube, I pulled the bungee cords back and attached the other end to the arm rest... pulling the rod into the tube. I didn't want the glue to settle on one side of the shaft, so I stood it up on end with the coil rod at the bottom to ensure an even bond all around the rod. I should also mention there is a hole on one side of the rod, but it doesn't go all of the way through. I drilled it through so when the Gorilla Glue expands, it would form a bond all the way through the rod (hence the reason for applying the glue inside the rod).

Finally, I took the arm rest back off, built up the shaft with electrical tape for the handle, then installed the handle and the arm rest.

The set up with the 15" WOT is two pounds lighter than the stock shaft with the 10" Tornado. Total cost was roughly $80. I've taken it out a couple times. It's much easier on the constitution. I have a slight wobble in the arm rest but the bigger issue after three 3-hour hunts is the tape under the handle is slipping. Any suggestions to correct this would be much appreciated.

Raider Regards,

R5

CF Shaft.jpg
 
Might be able to use heat shrink over the tube to shim the handle, all depends on the final thickness when shrunk to that OD.

Nice write-up on the shaft!

Cliff
 
Good looking job... Chuck is ok... I talk with him now and then.. there is no good hunting where he is so he hung up the detector until conditions improve plus he is enjoying his new RV.
 
Go to Walmart and get a pair of bike grips for the handle. They are larger and will help prevent trigger finger. That fishing pole..... you cant tighten down the handle because its tapered..... go to tight and it will crush. I just couldnt get it tight..... especially with a swift drift. It tended to want to float for me and a bit flexible. I even tried putting a piece of PVC inside for the handle. Didnt work for me in my conditions. couple of places ive gotten carbon fiber.

http://www.clearwatercomposites.com...036dfa45|f7699781-2fcd-4937-9df5-17d0719e57ea

http://www.rockwestcomposites.com/browse/tube-accessories

I think Andersons makes the BEST lower rod i like their CF, but dont really care for their handle. Pludger's 45" is a NICE shaft, but he dont make the lower rod. BUT both is a little pricy for just shaft use like you are using. Dont forget your arm strap.....

Dew
 
i just ordered an anderson cf shaft. i ow ed a plugger. hopibg cf shaves off some weight well see. one in pic looks nice. hh an gl -Joe
 
Good write up. I.have been holding off making a straight shafts for my Excal. Can you post the seller on ebay for the carbon fiber rod?
 


I got my carbon shaft from Clearwater. I used my existing CZ arm cuff and handle (bolt right on) and slid the CZ lower shaft right in the carbon shaft and pinned it with a plastic coil bolt and nut. I personally feel the CZ flat style handle is by far the best feeling and fitting handle.

I also had purchased an extended Anderson shaft when I had the Sand Shark. I ended up cutting it down to standard length as I hip mount.
DC
 
Nice write up! I made several of these straight shafts from thin-wall steel paint rollers, but that wont' cut it if I take them in the water. Definately plan on using your resources for a CF shaft.:D
 
Good write up. I.have been holding off making a straight shafts for my Excal. Can you post the seller on ebay for the carbon fiber rod?

The eBay store was Carbon Fiber Supply. The style is Fabric Twill Weave.

Here are on-line carbon fiber suppliers I researched (with the four most promising at the top).
Rock West Composites (this company had the most options to fit my needs)
Clearwater Composites
Dragonplate
CF Tube Shop
Goodwinds
ACP Composites
Carbon Fibre Shop (yes... I even looked at the UK)
Composite Resources
CST Composites
Forte Carbon Fiber

R5
 


I got my carbon shaft from Clearwater. I used my existing CZ arm cuff and handle (bolt right on) and slid the CZ lower shaft right in the carbon shaft and pinned it with a plastic coil bolt and nut. I personally feel the CZ flat style handle is by far the best feeling and fitting handle.

I also had purchased an extended Anderson shaft when I had the Sand Shark. I ended up cutting it down to standard length as I hip mount.
DC

I found a CZ handle but couldn't order it. I'll go measure the CZ-21 shaft. If the bike extension doesn't hold, maybe that's the direction I go.

NICE CF for that CZ! :thumbsup: I took that ugly, flimsy plate off the handle and cut a piece of black ABS to cover it.
image.jpg

R5
 
Plugger Makes them now

Plugger makes them now , he made me a custom 3 piece break down travel rod for my Excalibur Blue 1000, with a extended back 45 inch, happy hunting, http://rodsbyplugger.com/ Earl
 

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Raider, I was doing some testing last night on the new battery for the Excalibur and the transmit field of the coil, and this is with the little BBS 800 coil. The field of that little coil reach's so far out that a aluminum rod will cause it to weaken, just think the reach of a bigger coil. The bigger the piece of metal in this field the more it weakens, Movement, has nothing to do with this field, size and proximity does. So a Carbon Fiber shaft is a great addition to any detector..I believe.
 
Take a grinder and open the gap up some? Most are made of aluminum which is soft. But take a little at a time from the strongest side and as Flat nd even as possible. This will give you more of a squeeze.
 

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Raider, I was doing some testing last night on the new battery for the Excalibur and the transmit field of the coil, and this is with the little BBS 800 coil. The field of that little coil reach's so far out that a aluminum rod will cause it to weaken, just think the reach of a bigger coil. The bigger the piece of metal in this field the more it weakens, Movement, has nothing to do with this field, size and proximity does. So a Carbon Fiber shaft is a great addition to any detector..I believe.
Little bit off topic. I have a straight shaft hooked up to the dual field. Its made out of aluminium. I have the Whites lower carbon/plastic rod extended as far as it can go. Do you think this will greatly impact the detection field? I'm still digging deep targets. Some no chance to recover without dislocating something.
 
Take a grinder and open the gap up some? Most are made of aluminum which is soft. But take a little at a time from the strongest side and as Flat nd even as possible. This will give you more of a squeeze.

Hmmm... interesting. I never would have thought of that.
 
Little bit off topic. I have a straight shaft hooked up to the dual field. Its made out of aluminium. I have the Whites lower carbon/plastic rod extended as far as it can go. Do you think this will greatly impact the detection field? I'm still digging deep targets. Some no chance to recover without dislocating something
I tested my DF compared to the Excalibur. the field of the DF is a monster...a big thing...does it affect it, I would say yes...all other testing has been done with the Excalibur but from what I see ..I can set all up and listen to the field and when I bring a larger piece of metal into the field the signal weakens...this is with the Excalibur. I have only ran the tester thru the field and noticed the size of the DF tranmit field.
 
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