For the Minelab CTX screen watchers

tnsharpshooter

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Took a short hunt today in the rain.

I have been back tracking as of late,,,,going to sites I ve've pounded previously using Deus,,Racer mainly.
Have also run CTX with stock coil on these sites.

So my back tracking work is using CTX with small coil,,,concentrating on the worst areas first at sites.
These sites do contain iron,,many nails and some modern trash.

I tend to run my CTX with a nickel window,,,,opened up 11-14 conductive with high tone like silver assigned.

Well today,,I get this high tone,,,,I always seen 12-09 in the window,,,never a nickel TID.

Ferrous coin process in use btw.

So I dug,,,about 4" a nickel(non war) pops out.
No other targets even ferrous noted in around nickel.
So the tone was right as far as my target and setup,,,but ID numbers were wrong.

Gotta love the CTX.
 
Not sure why but that happens to me occasionally too. I've dug some reading low like that, and even some reading really high (~12-16). I guess if the coin is on edge it could ID lower, but no idea what could make it read higher with no other targets nearby.

As good as the CTX's ID is, it's not perfect. I always put my trust in the tone. The ID is just an extra bit of information that can be very helpful in certain situations.


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Tnss

Just picked up a CTX3030 2016 model, any help would be great, thanks Earl PS the reason is, i am moving within 10 miles from the beach, so I added it to my stock.
 
Just picked up a CTX3030 2016 model, any help would be great, thanks Earl PS the reason is, i am moving within 10 miles from the beach, so I added it to my stock.

Earl,,I'll try and help as much as I can.

If you are coming off of etrac,,,,,biggest difference is combined mode,,,and having the different processes to choose from.

It is easier to make patterns via exchange program.
CTX will generally run quieter when sweeping at higher sens vs etrac.

Also,,,you have an extra way to study targets when pinpointing.

Manual sensitivity at 26 and higher is still where the depth is,,,especially for lower conductors.

You will want to add screen protector of some kind if your don't have.

You will also be able to set a nickel window with whatever tone you choose( even the same tone you choose for silver)

You can run CTX using conductive 50 settings,,,,this mimicks an etrac in the way it runs (sorta),, but with faster recovery speed,,,,,running the COMBINED mode is way to have overall better performance vs etrac on average.

As far as water hunting Earl,,,,no salt water near me,,,,,so I'm at a loss for advice for you here.

There is a seawater mode or process,,,that is all I know,,,besides looking at some of the fantastic finds discovered by folks here on this forum.

You won't have much of a learning curve I don't think.
If you will pick your tones wisely,,,,stick with them until you get some time under your belt,,,,then you may elect to make a few changes.

Silver does sound different vs etrac,,,that is for sure.

Cheers
 
Thanks

Keeping the E-trac for now & V3i, i have to much money invested with extra coils, I did get the Andy Sabisch book, its on the way, thanks for your help , I should pick up on it fast, the exchange program is another thing :lol:, later, Earl PS when charging the wireless module, mine flashes a green light, it finally turned a solid red, is yours the same or different, anyway took it off the charger tuned it on, very loud now, looks like full charge ?
 
It should have turned a solid green light instead of red. Of course ,I am looking at the light on the wireless module and not on the charger
 
not the ctx battery

I am talking about the module with speaker, last night i was charging, blinked green for about 3 hours, than turned a solid red, the same side the green was flashing. Took it off charge, turned it on , seems fully charged now . PS my machine is the newer 2016 version.
 
I am talking about the module with speaker, last night i was charging, blinked green for about 3 hours, than turned a solid red, the same side the green was flashing. Took it off charge, turned it on , seems fully charged now . PS my machine is the newer 2016 version.

That's very common. I can't explain why it does it, but many users have observed the same thing. Yes, it's fully charged even though it goes back to flashing.
 
ya Jason

It is a weird thing, not like all the other toys, flashing green than turns solid green, or solid red than changes to solid green when charged lol
 
I am talking about the module with speaker, last night i was charging, blinked green for about 3 hours, than turned a solid red, the same side the green was flashing. Took it off charge, turned it on , seems fully charged now . PS my machine is the newer 2016 version.

That is what I was talking about. On mine, the light on the module with a speaker flashes green while it charges and then remains solid green when it's charged. DSCN0063_LI.jpg
 
Biblot

Thank you, when i charged it, it was upside down, just put it back on charge now we are on coarse, flashing green , i will wait for a solid , the same spot your arrow points to, :dash2:
 
Thank you, when i charged it, it was upside down, just put it back on charge now we are on coarse, flashing green , i will wait for a solid , the same spot your arrow points to, :dash2:

Your not alone,looks like we will be learning the CTX as we go. Choppadude came down and hunted with me this morning. He was digging good targets while I dug nails and bits and pieces of trash.:blush:
 
last night

Thought i had a full charge, watching it close, pugged it in 15 minutes ago , still flashing green, i would have thought if i had a full charge last night , the green light should have turned solid green by now, :lol:, can anyone solve the mystery :yes:
 
Thought i had a full charge, watching it close, pugged it in 15 minutes ago , still flashing green, i would have thought if i had a full charge last night , the green light should have turned solid green by now, :lol:, can anyone solve the mystery :yes:

It takes longer than the battery to charge. I plug them both in at the same time and the module is still charging after the battery is fully charged.
 
So what are you saying tn sharpshooter is it lying? If so what else is it lying on?:?:

I am assuming you are referring to iniatial post.

If so,,,yes it lied,,and no it didn't.
Tone wise it told truth more so,,TID number lie.

Remember I posted,,,didn't see any iron or other nonferrous near, around nickel.

And Deus had been in there a lot.

Although I can't prove since I have already dig target,,,,but since the CTX read nickel lower than normal,,,,,I would almost bet the farm,,,Deus and many other detectors would have read low on the nickel also.
Maybe even a lot lower than norm vs CTX.

Now,,the reason???
That is a $64,000 question.

All I can do is speculate.

But the point I guess is,,although some detectors are better than average vs others at Number I.D.,,,,anyone who is just digging textbook targets,,are leaving some nice finds behind.
 
I would surmise that the nickel may have been on edge or at least tilted a bit. I too have my nickel window set up a bit different to give me more of a clue when I am in that range. I have dug nickel's with a lower ferrous reading than usual and have noticed that the number does get dragged down in the presence of heavy iron also.
 
I've seen this with nickels. The mild soil in my area drops the numbers below the 12 line unless the nickel is shallow.
 
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