Help id nickel date

GKL · Mar 23, 2017

Just one more said:
I don't want to risk cleaning it, but is there a way to take a better picture?

From what I read elsewhere they usually say only clean coins that you're not concerned about possible damage, but I shared the cleaning info for IF you decided to clean. (wasn't saying whether you should or not)

As far as better photos, offhand you could try having the light source from different side angles to see if it would show the raised areas better. Another option is if you have a macro lens for close up photos.

If you have a strong magnifying glass maybe you can see the date well enough to confirm what it is.

GKL · Mar 24, 2017

Just one more said:
another shot. If the last digit is a zero, it must be an 1880 I guess?

If you can manage to see the date well enough (strong magnifying glass ?) to at least tell if the last number is a zero, then yes, likely 1880 because as I previously quoted from a page elsewhere:

Variety 1 with Rays (1866 - 1867)
Variety 2 No Rays (1867 - 1883)

So we know it can't be an 1860, but rather in the date range of variety 2.

tater · Mar 24, 2017

See my Avatar? shine a strong flashlight on it sideways like my picture. It will give better detail

Just one more · Mar 24, 2017

If it's 1880 it's one of the rarest nickels there is. But probably not worth much in it's condition. I will try to get better pictures.

GKL · Mar 24, 2017

tater said:
See my Avatar? shine a strong flashlight on it sideways like my picture. It will give better detail

Good example !!!!

Just one more said:
If it's 1880 it's one of the rarest nickels there is. But probably not worth much in it's condition. I will try to get better pictures.

Too bad it's not in better condition, I just checked a page showing the potential value based on condition and it said in part:

Total Produced: 16,000

Numismatic Value: $483 to $20000.00

Value: As a rough estimate of this coins value you can assume this coin in average condition will be valued at somewhere around $483, while one in certified mint state (MS+) condition could bring as much as $20,000 at auction. This price does not reference any standard coin grading scale. So when we say average, we mean in a similar condition to other coins issued in 1880, and mint state meaning it is certified MS+ by one of the top coin grading companies.

....found on this page - http://cointrackers.com/coins/14200/1880-shield-nickel/

Just one more · Mar 24, 2017

It's maddening. Depending on how I look at it, it can look like an 1869 or an 1880. I do notice a dimple on left hand side of the 3rd digit about half way down. The 6 on these coins don't have that dimple, but the 8's do. Also the last photo I took shows the 4th digit as an unbroken 0. Hmmm?

GKL · Mar 24, 2017

Just one more said:
It's maddening. Depending on how I look at it, it can look like an 1869 or an 1880. I do notice a dimple on left hand side of the 3rd digit about half way down. The 6 on these coins don't have that dimple, but the 8's do. Also the last photo I took shows the 4th digit as an unbroken 0. Hmmm?

I just tried enhancing that last photo a couple ways and it does indeed seem that last number is a zero. (first photo on left is part of your original)

GKL · Mar 24, 2017

Here's a page on shield nickel grading and value -

http://www.coinstudy.com/shield-nickel-value.html

one of the graphics from that page -

Edited to add: I just noticed the above page does not value the uncirculated 1880 anywhere near as much as that other link I posted before, unless I'm misunderstanding and there is a big difference between uncirculated and certified mint condition - (I'm not a coin expert, still learning more myself :lol:

)

http://cointrackers.com/coins/14200/1880-shield-nickel/

GKL · Mar 24, 2017

Okay, here's part of a coin grading list from the following page -

(trying to help determine what your coin might be graded as)

http://www.us-coin-values-advisor.com/grading-coins.html

Florida Tabdigger · Mar 24, 2017

I can read the date on buffalos easier when their wet.
Nice info on grading.

Swinglow · Mar 24, 2017

GKL said:
Now if a coin might have any real value I would first make sure any cleaning would not diminish the value.

Having said that, here is a thread on cleaning coins, but you can still get more opinions from other members as far as whether to clean your coin or not and if so, what is the best method least likely to damage the coin.

The thread below is called "Salty Vinegar & Brass Brush on many coins"

http://metaldetectingforum.com/showthread.php?t=239759

EDIT: to add:

I just read a coin cleaning page on the internet with a caution that said -

"If you are using salt and vinegar in a bowl, use it in a well ventilated area. The salt will break down into sodium (harmless) and chloride gas which is very harmful."

Mother of god, that thread needs to be deleted! Can't believe that guy ruined all those coins.

OP, I would strongly advise you leave that nickel as is b/c it's about as good as it's going to get. like TNsharp said, you clean it more and you'll only lose detail.

BottleCapKing · Mar 24, 2017

Definitely 1869

GKL · Mar 24, 2017

Swinglow said:
OP, I would strongly advise you leave that nickel as is b/c it's about as good as it's going to get. like TNsharp said, you clean it more and you'll only lose detail.

Good point about that old nickel !

That's why I added in another post -

"From what I read elsewhere they usually say only clean coins that you're not concerned about possible damage, but I shared the cleaning info for IF you decided to clean. (wasn't saying whether you should or not)

Now having said that, there are coins that are okay to clean, just probably not older ones like that where you don't want to risk any possible damage.

Help id nickel date

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