First Detector - should I go for it w/ a top model?

smokey888x2

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Apr 28, 2009
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Ok, I've never ever gone detecting. I'm planning on getting one and naturally I have no idea what I'm doing but here's my thinking (don't laught:):

I thought I might as well get a very good one right off the shoot, so am I crazy for buying Minelab E-Trac combo kit (bag, head phones and detector)?
 
Welcome to the hobby and our forum from California.

My thoughts...

Many folks start with an entry level detector to try out the hobby....it's hard work sometimes.

Buying a "top model" is a good idea if you are absolutely sure you're going to enjoy the "dark art". All of the higher end machines will run right out of the box with factory "pre-set" suggestions. No doubt, they will provide you with much more information and options that you're ready for on your first few hunts. However, getting a top model detector prevents getting another soon after learning the basics.
 
Coins vs gold rings

Can you hunt both at the same time or do you need a completely different sensor-ring?

by the way, thanks for that last post - helpful
 
Welcome to the forum

As I see it, you want to head right to the top to avoid having to upgrade later. From an economical stand point that could be good or that could be bad.
Things to consider before you drop over a grand on a top of the line machine.

You have 0 experience detecting.

learning on a complex unit like the e-trac may humble you like you never been humbled before:wow:

The e-trac like the White's dfx and the new vision have a daunting learning curve for the average users who DO have a couple years of MDing behind them.

So, in conclusion, unless you are one of those students who picked up on calculus in a couple days, I, in my humble opinion would suggest you rethink your selection, and start with something a bit less intimidating. There are a number of turn and go machines at 1/3 the cost of the e-trac that are easy to sell when you upgrade. The top selling American made plus the Minelabs are the best bet.....Again, this is just my opinion, others could see it differently....Gil
 
Welcome to the forum Smokey, I am with grinsebring on this one. I would start out with a middle of the line detector first. Steve.
 
I think it is a better idea to start with an entry level or mid tier detector for a few reasons. They are in general easier to learn, and will give you a handle on the basics. Also, then you have something to upgrade to later on.

I started with the BH Tracker IV, which is about as entry level as you can get. A year later I upgraded to the Minelab Sovereign. The Sov was much harder to learn. I have no doubt that if I had started with it instead of the Tracker there is a good chance I would have given up on the hobby.

Just my two cents.
 
Just speaking from experience, get a model like the Tesoro Cibola and learn by sound first. Dig everything for the first 3 months and it will begin to click. Once it does your on your way and can move up. Having all the bells and whistles at first will not be any good to you until you got some time in this hobby using a more basic machine. Believe me you will be surprised at what you will find even with the Cibola, it's a good machine. By the way find out if you have a ground condition called mineralization there, if you do then a Vaquero with ground balancing capability maybe in order. If I can be of further help just contact me. Good luck.

John Tomlinson,CET
John's Detectors
 
Lowjiber has it right on the nose here. When I started detecting I bought 3 detectors in 4 months. I should have just started with the DFX and saved the money. I knew I was hooked before I started my first hunt. If you are sure this is going to be of interest to you, jump in the deep end. I personally to not buy into the learning curve fear factor. I just picked up a Whites Spectra V3 and you can literally turn it on and start swinging. My DFX was no different for me. As you get experience your finds will improve. My first week with the DFX I found a V Nickle and a Indian Head. I had no clue what I was doing. Good luck and do not be afraid of a high end detector. Purchasing from a local dealer will get you a lot of the help you need to get started. Good luck and happy hunting.

Keep Swing'in
Jack
 
My take: not wanting to ruffle any feathers

@smokey888x2

The way I look at your question is that you offer us that you have a budget that could support the purchase of a current top model metal detector now!

I also figure that beeing ready to use this sizeable capital, you will fully commit to this new endeavour, hobby.

Your choice of the Minelab E-Trac is sound. It does not have a steep learning curve. It is easier on a new user than the Explorer SE was. A Whites DFX as a steep learning curve even for users who have worked with it for 2-3 years.

The first and major learning curve in metal detecting comes from understanding how the targets you are hunting after, interact with the "ground matrix". The "ground matrix" beeing the portion of the soil beeing seen by the coil of your metal detector.
( It boils down to what frequency response does a target have in a perticular media(soil,ground). The metal detector is the frequency generator/frequency receptor that analyzes the response in amplitude and phase of all of the reflected back signals that was first transmitted.)

Now if you are considering the E-Trac, you should definitely consider Whites new Spectra V3.

With those two latest models you will be benefiting of more recent technological advances from the manufacturers and your unit will be current for the next 2-3 years, and thus protecting more of your resale value if you decide to quit. The E-Trac and Spectra V3 will still be very desirable units on the used market and command a still appreciable resale price compared to what you disbursed when you bought them.

By going with the top models, you will never doubt your detector if you are not "performing", you will only have the grounds to blame or yourself! :lol:

And I am also like-minded to CyberSage below when he says:
I personally do not buy into the learning curve fear factor. I just picked up a Whites Spectra V3 and you can literally turn it on and start swinging. SNIPP. As you get experience your finds will improve. My first week with the DFX I found a V Nickle and a Indian Head. I had no clue what I was doing. Good luck and do not be afraid of a high end detector. Purchasing from a local dealer will get you a lot of the help you need to get started.

But if you plan on hunting only easy grounds like tot lots, a basic model like a Garret Ace250 or Fisher F2 or Bounty Hunter 505 or a Tesoro(no display) model will do just fine!
 
Also a noobie...

I to am in the exact same boat as Smokey. This is my first post on the forum, and I was reading posts and came accross this thread. I couldnt have written it better myself. I am the type of person to "buy big, and buy once". I want a high end machine that I can learn from the start, rather than upgrading and learning a new machines functions/quirks. I have done the research, and am leaning towards a MXT. Any opinions on newer technology advantages with other machines is welcome.
 
Welcome from the land of OZ

First I'd like to clear up the whole "the DFX has a steep learning curve" issue. If you're talking about adjusting to get maximum depth on a given condition, then yes, it does take some learning, but as far as using the factory programs, even a new 10 year old can turn the DFX on and choose a program. If the E-Trac has tone ID on by default, then it would be much more difficult for a first timer to understand.

I've handed a DFX to a first timer who never touched a detector before, and when he asked what to do I just told him to hit the power button and follow the directions. He was finding coins within 5 minutes. We need to be a bit more specific on tossing around the learning curve stigma. The DFX is as turn-on-and-go as any detector made from starter to expert. In fact I'd be inclined to say it's even easier. I think it tougher to understand a good tone from a bad tone than looking at an Icon that has a picture of a Dime or Quarter.

If you have anyone experienced to hunt with then by all means buy the best and forget the rest.
 
In my opinion, it's not just the machine you must learn to use. It is metal detecting in general. What items there are to be found, where they are likely to me found, how the environment will impact your chances for success, the relative conductivity of various items, how items are likely to be affected by the environment, etc, etc, etc. These are basics which must be learned completely independent of the machine you opt to use. In my opinion, it is easier to pick these things up using a simpler machine. Then when you do upgrade you are in a better position to understand what all the bells an whistles are for on a new machine. You may even decide that most of the bells and whistles really aren't needed at all.

Also, I would not look at upgrading as wasting money. It would be my guess that pretty much everyone who upgrades hangs on to their old machine as a spare or for hunting in a particular situation. Having two detectors is really far more useful than you would suspect, even when one machine is "higher end" than the other.

Just my two cents.
 
I was in a similar situation. But I had detected with a friends XLT before, so I was already addicted to MD'ing. I am going to be upgrading in a few months, and have only had the F5 for a month. I should have gone Vision or E-trac out of the gate. I bought my machine after very little research, so, no matter how you decide. Do your research!! A month of waiting and researching will save you time and money down the road!! I learned this the hard way. :(

Also, don't skimp on accesories, you get what you pay for!! Get the Garrett Pro-pointer and a Lesche digger with your detector, and build from there.
 
Also, don't skimp on accessories, you get what you pay for!! Get the Garrett Pro-pointer and a Lesche digger with your detector, and build from there.
Bud...I agree about accessories. I see a lot of folks who invest $800+ in a detector and go out and buy a $4 digger and $10 pinpointer. A chain is defined by its weakest link.
 
Let me offer another perspective... rather then the entry level or the high end level I would suggest you look strongly at a Mid-Level machine. This gives you the bet of both worlds.... I have personally selected the F5 as it seemed to have many of the high end features of detectors costing hundreds more but it was a better choice then some of the entry level machines that do not offer ground balance and things like that. Fisher gives a 5 year warranty on their units and is a great brand name unit. The F5 is listed on Kellyco for $500 and comes with a nice set of headphones and several other items. If the F5 is out of your range price wise look at the F2... it offers 3 coils and a TDI display (some like this others don't) and comes with a carry bag... also at kellyco or the Garret Ace 250... another strong entry level unit.
The last factor to consider is what type of hunting you want ... that will often drive your decision... I am repeating myself a bit as I went through my thought process on the thread "Picking your Detector from a Newbies point of View" which is listed under the heading "Advice on a Detector purchase." So all in all... go middle of the road... its safe, cost effective and gives you some of the better options to help you in your quest and if you upgrade to a higher end unit it will serve as a close standby in case you need it or in case you find someone to go with you.

Good Luck!
 
Go For It

If you have the means and the "knowledge of self" that knows your gonna love this then I say go for it.

As for myself I dont yet own my DFX and yes it is going to be my first machine. As for learning a high end machine, I'm game on and up to my elbows in reading materials, both books and online. I've planted some of my test garden, just got a S.B.A. dollar and a couple kennedy halfs to add to it. I'll add the gold ring at about 1:45 am when the neighbors are supposed to be asleep.

I was on the fence with the MXT or DFX and got both of Jeff Foster's books and after reading the DFX book I was like "Well Yeah"...

Oh, Lowjibber's right, spend a $100 to $130 on some great headphones. Dont get a great machine and then put some $45 Wally World headphones on it.

Happy decision making.

Scott
 
In my opinion, it's not just the machine you must learn to use. It is metal detecting in general. What items there are to be found, where they are likely to me found, how the environment will impact your chances for success, the relative conductivity of various items, how items are likely to be affected by the environment, etc, etc, etc.

Well put Z! This is a very wise statement. The best detector in the world and all the savvy on using it will do you no good at all if you are hunting in the wrong place for the wrong thing.
 
Just reading this stuff makes me hungry:) ha

Wow, some pretty great posting happens here. Made me feel good about being American again. Thanks a lot. Just fantastic information.

As to what I'm going to do, ha! I think I'm going to first go start another line of discussion. I think it will fit in great with what we just covered.

I'll title it: "My First Few Times Out and What I'll Experience"

Thanks again, just great information.
 
I am going to go with my decision on this. I picked the White's MXT why. Well first a White's rep showed me how they worked while out of town on business. Second it uses knobs (or resistance pots) for settings. I know digital is good but for a new user learning sounds is very hard. I would go with a mid level machine that has a target ID makes it much easier to use and keep you from getting discouraged. Icewater
 
I am going to go with my decision on this. I picked the White's MXT ...

Congratulations on the new MXT ICE! The MXT is definitely not a mid-range detector. It actually runs deeper than the DFX. On the contrary, you have purchased a high end machine there. :yes:

Keep Swing'in
Jack
 
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