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  #1  
Old 01-28-2018, 11:48 PM
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Default CTX-3030 Battery Repair/Replace

My CTX battery failed after seven months. Although the warranty on the battery is just six months, Minelab replaced it. But, what about next time?

This video just came out. I haven't tried it. Enjoy!



I think an easier and cleaner way to take the metal strips off the original battery would be to just heat the solder and pull it off. Am I missing something?

And here's how to solder batteries.



Raider Regards,

R5

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  #2  
Old 01-30-2018, 04:54 AM
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Great info




These batteries are unprotected Li-Ion type batteries and Li-ion batteries may explode if not handled properly.
User must understand the safe handling of Li-ion batteries.

NEVER SHORT CIRCUIT.
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  #3  
Old 01-30-2018, 08:43 AM
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Iíve repaired two by replacing the cells in them. Iíve only used mine a couple of times since but it worked like it should. I did the other for Airforcemike here on the forum. I will have to see how his is holding up. Both of our original batteries were showing full bars then they would just go dead randomly. You couldnít hunt for more then ten minutes between shut downs. There is a circuit board in the battery that monitors the voltage and shuts the MD off if the voltage gets too low. Ours had a bad cell in them and it would make the voltage dip and cause a shut down. The board going bad could cause issues for some people and if they replace the cells it still doesnít work properly.
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Old 01-30-2018, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Ra1der5 View post

I think an easier and cleaner way to take the metal strips off the original battery would be to just heat the solder and pull it off.

R5
The strips on the ctx battery are spot welded on. It is almost impossible to get them off in one piece. I ended up just using solderwick since itís basically flat copper wire to join the batteries when I did it.
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  #5  
Old 02-02-2018, 10:19 PM
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Everyone, thanks for responses.

Originally Posted by coin chaser View post
The strips on the ctx battery are spot welded on. It is almost impossible to get them off in one piece. I ended up just using solderwick since itís basically flat copper wire to join the batteries when I did it.
CC... You inspired me to looking into spot welding vs, solder. Thx.

R5

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Old 02-02-2018, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Ra1der5 View post
Everyone, thanks for responses.



CC... You inspired me to looking into spot welding vs, solder. Thx.

R5
The existing tabs are spot welded. I soldered when I redid the packs. Some places like batteries plus might spot weld the packs for you though. I was just saying the existing spot welded tabs on the pack make it real tough to remove the tabs in one piece. I just focused on saving the tabs that come off the board to the pack.
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Old 02-02-2018, 11:46 PM
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Man o man what a awesome job Coin. I only used it for the second half of the year but I bet I get almost 1.5 times the battery length now. Did a few 8 hours trips hunting with the battery indicator barely moving. Best battery I own now and itís the original battery when the 3030 was released.


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Old 02-07-2018, 02:22 PM
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Default Just did mine too.

Got my CTX used from a member of this forum and the pack would never go to solid green. Recently, it wouldnít hold much charge at all and I stumbled across that same video and ordered the same cells and did the job too.

As for the spot welds on the straps, just go slowly and support the strap so that it canít bend with the prying force.

I ran my detector for about 4 hours the other day and the screen still showed full charge. I just recharged my pack and it took all of 20 minutes or so to get solid green again.

Iíll do the same with the WM10 when its battery finally gives out.

As was mentioned, you could also use solder wick if the straps become too damaged.

Heck of a deal for $15 to get decent cells vs. the junk ML uses.

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Old 02-07-2018, 09:43 PM
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Finding decent cells is the hard part. You have to filter through tons of reviews. There are tons of fake name brand cells out there now too. The people that vape really test the cells and have chargers that can see if they are actually get the full rated mah. Lots of reviews out there for 2500mah cells that only actually produce 1500mah. When I did airforcemikes pack I ended up going name brand with good reviews and they were $30 for four cells off amazon. Thatís still way cheaper then replacing the battery pack.
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Old 02-11-2018, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by coin chaser View post
When I did airforcemikes pack I ended up going name brand with good reviews and they were $30 for four cells off amazon. Thatís still way cheaper then replacing the battery pack.
Link?

R5

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  #11  
Old 02-11-2018, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Ra1der5 View post
Link?

R5
4 Samsung INR18650-25R 18650 2500mAh 3.7v Rechargeable Flat Top Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NUI46HM..._fG9FAbWZCS1H1

This is what I ordered back in April of 2017. Looks like they have came down in price too.
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  #12  
Old 02-12-2018, 08:05 PM
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Default Well this is disappointing.

My new cells are outputting 8.25 volts to the board, but now the board has no output to the battery terminals. It was working fine. I was chasing a target in my front yard and turned back to find the detector shut off. My AA pack still works so the detector is not the issue. The charger still shows the Lithium pack as fully charged.

I had voltage at the terminals (measuring the solder pads on the back of the connector), but it disappeared and now nothing. Oh well.

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  #13  
Old 02-12-2018, 09:32 PM
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You have a bad cell or a bad board I assume. The board monitors the battery voltage and shuts it off if the voltage dips too low because lithium batteries canít be discharged to 0 volts I believe. I donít remember what voltage the pack should be at off the top of my head but I can test my battery later. Over heating a cell while soldering them can damage them too.
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  #14  
Old 02-12-2018, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by coin chaser View post
You have a bad cell or a bad board I assume. The board monitors the battery voltage and shuts it off if the voltage dips too low because lithium batteries canít be discharged to 0 volts I believe. I donít remember what voltage the pack should be at off the top of my head but I can test my battery later. Over heating a cell while soldering them can damage them too.
Cells are supplying 8.25vdc to the board. The center tap on the other side is at 4.12vdc. This thing ran fine for several hours at a local park the other day on its maiden voyage with the replaced cells. Today, it was working fine, then the CTX shut down while I had my back turned, digging a signal in my yard. I opened the pack and plugged it in to the CTX with cover off and CTX powered up so I replaced cover on the pack and went back outside. Sure enough, while I wasnít looking at the detector sitting on the ground, it shut down again.

I minimized overheating the cells when soldering by pre-tinning the straps and battery cap separately, allowing them to cool and heating just enough to reflow the solder. Not my first rodeo with soldering connections(equipment tech in semiconductor industry was my career). I also used a low wattage iron for the job, not one of those massive soldering guns.

Gonna see if I can glean any IC pinout info from the chips on the board. Gotta be a 7.2 voltage regulator on there somewhere.

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Old 02-12-2018, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by papaharley03 View post
Cells are supplying 8.25vdc to the board. The center tap on the other side is at 4.12vdc. This thing ran fine for several hours at a local park the other day on its maiden voyage with the replaced cells. Today, it was working fine, then the CTX shut down while I had my back turned, digging a signal in my yard. I opened the pack and plugged it in to the CTX with cover off and CTX powered up so I replaced cover on the pack and went back outside. Sure enough, while I wasnít looking at the detector sitting on the ground, it shut down again.

I minimized overheating the cells when soldering by pre-tinning the straps and battery cap separately, allowing them to cool and heating just enough to reflow the solder. Not my first rodeo with soldering connections(equipment tech in semiconductor industry was my career). I also used a low wattage iron for the job, not one of those massive soldering guns.

Gonna see if I can glean any IC pinout info from the chips on the board. Gotta be a 7.2 voltage regulator on there somewhere.
Yeah you did it right and obviously know what your doing. I had my solder station cranked to 480 degrees so I could get in and out quick for less heat to build too. Your battery is doing exactly what both mine and airforcemikes packs were doing prior to the cell replacement. They would show full then randomly shut down. I tested each individual old cell after I removed them and they all tested at the rated 3.7 volts. I think one of them had a load issue where when it was put under a load the voltage fell off. I donít have a way to load test these cells though. From what you described it sounds like a bad cell to me.
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Old 02-12-2018, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by coin chaser View post
Yeah you did it right and obviously know what your doing. I had my solder station cranked to 480 degrees so I could get in and out quick for less heat to build too. Your battery is doing exactly what both mine and airforcemikes packs were doing prior to the cell replacement. They would show full then randomly shut down. I tested each individual old cell after I removed them and they all tested at the rated 3.7 volts. I think one of them had a load issue where when it was put under a load the voltage fell off. I donít have a way to load test these cells though. From what you described it sounds like a bad cell to me.
Interesting. My initial situation before replacing the cells was that it would never go to full charge, the green LED would always remain flashing. It still worked well enough to go out and detect for several hours, but never showed full since the time I bought it used. So after cell replacement, it charged to steady green and worked fine the other day for several hours without issue. At least the replacement ML packs have come down in price and include the updated o-ring, so I may just bite the bullet and go that route.

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.

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Old 02-13-2018, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by papaharley03 View post
Interesting. My initial situation before replacing the cells was that it would never go to full charge, the green LED would always remain flashing. It still worked well enough to go out and detect for several hours, but never showed full since the time I bought it used. So after cell replacement, it charged to steady green and worked fine the other day for several hours without issue. At least the replacement ML packs have come down in price and include the updated o-ring, so I may just bite the bullet and go that route.

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.
Donít trash the bad pack of you do. I would be interested in testing it further if you just decide your gonna go the new pack route.
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by coin chaser View post
Donít trash the bad pack of you do. I would be interested in testing it further if you just decide your gonna go the new pack route.
Will do. I did find a data sheet on the main chip.

http://www.ti.com/product/BQ20Z75-V180

Although the one on the board is not TI brand.

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Old 02-13-2018, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by papaharley03 View post
Will do. I did find a data sheet on the main chip.

http://www.ti.com/product/BQ20Z75-V180

Although the one on the board is not TI brand.
Thatís awesome. Totally clears up what the function of the board is thanks for posting it!
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Old 02-13-2018, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by coin chaser View post
Thatís awesome. Totally clears up what the function of the board is thanks for posting it!
More info this morning. Those three 8 pin ICís are just single MOSFET devices.

Two 6690 and one 4435.

https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datash...D/FDS6690A.pdf

https://www.mouser.com/ds/2/308/FDS4435-1123384.pdf

The small blue/red device is the thermistor for sensing pack temp.

Have fun!

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