f75

I hope this helps, a lot of information. http://www.dankowskidetectors.com/discussions/read.php?2,2377,45294

nasa Tom

Got it! thank you.

Here is part 1...
http://www.dankowskidetectors.com/discussions/read.php?2,2251

I found this interesting because the F75 is prone to EMI.
http://www.tekneticst2.com/tekfiles/Electrical Interference.htm

One more from across the pond

http://www.garysdetecting.co.uk/Fisher_f75_special_edition_uk_review.htm

In the end find what is comfortable it's a great detector. The only thing I found frustrating was it hits bottle caps as a a perfect coin, you can resolve that by slowly raising the coil as you sweep. If its a coin then the vdi wil remain steady, however a bottle cap vdi will vary widely. Also sometimes if the target is close to the surface the detectors goes a bit wild just raise the coil by 2 or 3 inches.

According to the site in the UK using the JE mode works best. If you have any specific questions you can pm me.

thank you Sir

Great reading I will put this info to good use...

walt12524 said:

I found this interesting because the F75 is prone to EMI.
http://www.tekneticst2.com/tekfiles/Electrical Interference.htm

Click to expand...

This was interesting, and it seemed to be true in my experience with the F70.

The T2 and the F75, when used in discrimination mode, usually provide better electrical interference rejection at low discrimination settings, than at high discrimination settings. This contrary to the pattern of most discriminators.

Also Treasurebone stated that for him 2F on the F70 is a little less prone to EMI and I also believe this is true.

As far as pop tops...they are my arch enemy.
I hate them, so many of my sites are awash in a huge number of these things at some of my older parks and many of those sites have a huge amount of good high tone targets I want to dig so a blanket of these things at different depths really slows me down.
Using the standard elliptical coil that came with my F70 they are fairly easy to spot, the numbers aren't usually coin numbers at all.
When I switch to the F75 DD coil that changes and the numbers come way closer if not right on dime and quarter numbers a lot...even into some pretty solid 90's numbers from time to time.

I have divided these up into a few categories because this is the different kinds of behavior I have seen and this is how I deal with each of them.
Always looking for a fast and efficient way to recognize them and avoid digging them with no "what if" feelings in the back of my mind and these techniques seems to be working for me pretty well so far.

These things are made of different materials depending on age and manufacturer, and exactly how they are laying in the ground seems to affect the way our detectors see them and behave.


1. The jumpy ones...These might come in at all numbers from the 60's to the 90's and even mimic coin number areas but no matter how I move the coil over them they jump in the numbers more than 2 or 3 and even sections a lot of the time.
Raising the coil over them will usually show a dramatic number drop as mentioned in the post above, and "rimming" the target running the edge of the coil over them, any edge but I use the front, you will see a big drop in the numbers and sometimes even down to iron just about every time.
Using 2F or any other tone setting and low disc where you can hear that iron grunt helps to speed things up in this situation, but even in 3-4H tones and higher disc you can notice a big number drop on the screen and a tone change.

2. Stable ones...Sometimes the numbers are pretty right on where coins fall, the numbers don't hardly jump at all which is the case with most coins.
I don't do that coil raising thing much in any of these situations because that rimming thing usually is faster for me.
On these types a few quick swipes with the rim of the coil and a number drop and I just move on confident I have not left a good target in the ground.

3...The ones that fool you...Some of the older steel ones that are rusty and flattened and especially laying flat in the ground will just come in like a coin at good numbers with no change in the numbers, sections or tones by raising the coil or rimming.
Quick side to side swipes they might also stay very solid and stable and in this case you just have to dig them and see what they are hoping for a good target.
Luckily, these are the rarest type I come across...they are out there but not in the huge volume of the other types.
A few of the modern crimped aluminum ones could act this way especially if they are flattened, but most times they fall into one of those first two categories.

There might be other clues to differentiate the more difficult ones and tell me they are trash and not good targets, but if there is a technique for doing that I don't know it yet...so I dig them.

I spent the weekend with my F75 in an old camp in Virginia. I was only able to hunt about 1/2 of the entire place because of EMI issues. I'm not talking about a little clickety clack blip blip. ...I am talking about music that you could dance to...oscillating pulsing and it drove my machine crazy. Any and all settings were tried and to no avail...so I had to hunt in areas where I was at least 200 yards away from overhead lines.

Once I got far enough away emi stopped and I was able to hunt and have a good time. I still think this machine is one of the finest relic detectors on the market. ..but man when the emi starts kickin...it's a real pain.

LittleJohn

lil frustrated

I went out again and really tried to figure this machine out. I read to manual, watched a few videos and attempted to set it up and it went wanky.

It got so bad I had to put it back in the truck and take out the compadre. I just might have gotten more MD than I should have... Going back to read some more....

Sounds like you are in an emi area from the way you explain what it's doing.

freq ADJ

Guys adjust the Freq setting on your f75 by using the toggle switch till it simmers down, find the best operating freq, than back off on the sins, happy hunting Earl SEE FREQ SHIFTING PAGE 28 in the manual, Earl

Here is my suggestion. Reset to Factory Preset which is quickly done. The microprocessor of the F75 saves all settings even after the machine is turned off. To return to the preprogrammed settings, first turn the detector off. Then press and hold the MENU button and push and hold the Trigger forward while turning the detector on. After it is on release the menu and Trigger controls.

Now run it in the default setting and if it's to noisy lower the sensitivity until it quiets down. Also don't raise the discrimination to high, for some reason the lower it's set the quieter it runs.

If you want to experiment keep it in default setting and adjust the tones to 2f. And keep discrimination at 6. Dig any longer repeating signal other then iron tone, and see what you get. This is a the way to learn the F75. After you get comfortable then move on to the other processes.

If you play with the notch and discrimination it is a must that you return the detector to its preprogrammed settings, otherwise it can get very confusing.

walt12524 said:

Here is my suggestion. Reset to Factory Preset which is quickly done. The microprocessor of the F75 saves all settings even after the machine is turned off. To return to the preprogrammed settings, first turn the detector off. Then press and hold the MENU button and push and hold the Trigger forward while turning the detector on. After it is on release the menu and Trigger controls.

Now run it in the default setting and if it's to noisy lower the sensitivity until it quiets down. Also don't raise the discrimination to high, for some reason the lower it's set the quieter it runs.

If you want to experiment keep it in default setting and adjust the tones to 2f. And keep discrimination at 6. Dig any longer repeating signal other then iron tone, and see what you get. This is a the way to learn the F75. After you get comfortable then move on to the other processes.

If you play with the notch and discrimination it is a must that you return the detector to its preprogrammed settings, otherwise it can get very confusing.

Click to expand...

thanks I am going to try this... You are right it got very confusing.
Koz

kozman4907 said:

thanks I am going to try this... You are right it got very confusing.
Koz

Click to expand...

Don't think you have to hunt on high settings to find stuff, even the factory start up setting, either.
These things are so massively powerful that even way low settings that are quiet can find you the good stuff.
Start low and work your way up the power ladder as you learn.

Yesterday, by finding the correct settings, I hit a dime that was loud, clear repeatable and a no brainer to dig at a measured 5"...and the sensitivity on my F70 was at 19.
That's right, 19 out of a possible 99.

giving up on f75

I am going to work on my AT pro. The F75 is bit too much for me right now.

Back your sensitivity off to about 50 and then try running your disc between 6-19 and see if that helps with the chattyness...is that even a word? lol

From 0-5 and 20 on up on the disc run at higher levels of sensitivity inherent in the program. 6-19 is supposedly the sweet spot if you are having chatter problems.

Still learning new things about the F75 all the time...and I have been using one for a good while now.

Good luck and keep at it, you'll get it.

LittleJohn

I would return it and get the Safari

I'm in the market for a F75LTD. ..LET me know!

LittleJohn said:

Back your sensitivity off to about 50 and then try running your disc between 6-19 and see if that helps with the chattyness...is that even a word? lol

From 0-5 and 20 on up on the disc run at higher levels of sensitivity inherent in the program. 6-19 is supposedly the sweet spot if you are having chatter problems.

Still learning new things about the F75 all the time...and I have been using one for a good while now.

Good luck and keep at it, you'll get it.

LittleJohn

Click to expand...

This is exactly what I was going to say.