Myers Depot Metal Detectors

equinox shaft question

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melbajoe

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Seems that all of a sudden the lower shaft on the nox 800 will rotate maybe 1/4 -1/2 inch. Now this is with the collar tight down and the button correctly seated. I can't believe I'm the only one with this issue( pretty annoying) so I wonder if its possible to swap out the mine lab collar for the pflugger locks- and if so how to remove the orig minelab one. I'd rather not spend the $ on a whole new CF shaft. Thanks, Joe
 
melbajoe said:
Seems that all of a sudden the lower shaft on the nox 800 will rotate maybe 1/4 -1/2 inch. Now this is with the collar tight down and the button correctly seated. I can't believe I'm the only one with this issue( pretty annoying) so I wonder if its possible to swap out the mine lab collar for the pflugger locks- and if so how to remove the orig minelab one. I'd rather not spend the $ on a whole new CF shaft. Thanks, Joe
Click to expand...

Get the Plugger ones and saw of the old one. It works great unless you need every inch of the shaft because you are gigantic.
 
thanks, I guess just sawing it is the easiest way as long as I don't damage the shaft-or do you mean cut the upper shaft where the lock is itself. I guess thats even easier lol. thanks again, Joe
 
I sawed mine off right behind the lock. If memory serves you might have to drill another hole in the upper shaft. There will be no place for the spring button once you saw the lock off. Take the control head off. It makes it easy to do. The cuff on the stock shaft is junk as well. You are probably going to have to deal with it eventually. Especially if you water hunt. Snap!

I have also purchased an Anderson Shaft. A nice shaft, but there are a few issues with it that I don't like. One of them being the balance of the detector itself. In my opinion a counter weight is needed. Especially if the 15 inch coil is to be used. Also the bottom shaft needs a drain hole. It fills with water adding even more weight effecting the balance. The coil bolt provided does not work. The wing nut hits the rib of the coil. You just can't tighten the bolt enough. Back to the Minelab stock bolt.
 
I've taken to pop riveting the lower shaft to the middle and getting rid of the camlocks completely...Not yet on my NOX, but on Both My AtPro and F70...Its just so fast and easy to do, pop riveting...and theres no wiggle...

I'm sure I'll be doing this on my NOX..I have not once adjusted the length of the lower shaft from first assembly...and theres some flex going on there...
 
Mine is rotating now too. 😕

But after hunting with it I actually don’t mind it now. If I’m detecting side to side on a slope coil moves with slope 🤣
 
InShepherdsArms said:
Mine is rotating now too. 😕

But after hunting with it I actually don’t mind it now. If I’m detecting side to side on a slope coil moves with slope 🤣
Click to expand...

That's how the lower rods snap off from rotation. I know someone on their third lower rod already:shock:
 
Joe buddy....... take it apart and drill a couple of holes..... add a TWO button spring clip.... problem solved.
 
I just put mine together. Not sure if this rotation has anything to do with corrosion on the inside, but I plan to remove or drill out the shaft plug on the arm cuff end so that I can flush it out after each use. I do that with my excal’s homemade aluminum shaft and have never had any corrosion issues.
 
Mike......ive always drilled a hole just above the coil connector on the lower shaft to let water and sand drain just before i get out of the water.......kind of like the CTX has to allow the cable to up the shafts.
 
itsaring! said:
That's how the lower rods snap off from rotation. I know someone on their third lower rod already:shock:
Click to expand...

That's nuts. I put my gear through the ringer and so far i've only gone through a coil cover. (although the bottom part of the lower shaft where the coil bolts in, is wearing down.
 
One or our complaints was always that ML should offer us a compact travel shaft. Well they did that..... but most of us know that hunt water, 3 piece shafts are going to move with a lot of water torque. When they move..... something going to give eventually. I replaced mine ..... ill use it as a travel shaft... aluminum blisters in the water also over time.

Joe trust me buddy that will solve your problem...... BUT, if you dont need it id seen it back for replacement .... its not going to get better with age.

George...... ive busted the plastic cuff, but i keep marine epoxy on the bottom of my coil covers..... tuff stuff.
 
dewcon said:
One or our complaints was always that ML should offer us a compact travel shaft. Well they did that..... but most of us know that hunt water, 3 piece shafts are going to move with a lot of water torque. When they move..... something going to give eventually. I replaced mine ..... ill use it as a travel shaft... aluminum blisters in the water also over time.
Click to expand...
When I bought CF to make the shaft for my Excal I bought 2. I used one for the Excal and have one ready for the Noxy which I will do soon. I too will be leaving the OEM 3 piece as a travel shaft.
 
Felix...... i recommend you NOT use the plastic Nox cuff....... in the water shes going to eventually break.
 
dewcon said:
Felix...... i recommend you NOT use the plastic Nox cuff....... in the water shes going to eventually break.
Click to expand...
I thought that was a weakness and I will be getting something "Felix-proof" when I get my Noxy back from my buddy who's redoing the headphones. Thanks for the reminder!
 
contacted minelab- they're going to send me anoth middle shaft but they are out of stock (what does that say?). its the shaft cam lock that's the problem. I put the lower shaft into the upper shaft lock and no wobble.
 
Twist Cams are just an inferior design. They wear out. They deteriorate from sand and salt water abrasion. Salt water and beach hunting are a strain on equipment. That is just the reality of it. Make mods. Upgrade the cams. Upgrade the entire shaft. Do what you got to do.
 
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