Our last stop on this saga was Le Mont-Saint-Michel (Saint Michael's Mount), an island
(just 600 meters from land) off the coast of Normandy, France.
The island has held strategic fortifications since ancient times and since the 8th
century AD has been the seat of the monastery from which it draws its name.
The structural composition of the medieval town exemplifies the feudal society
that constructed it: on top, God, the abbey and monastery; below, the great halls;
then stores and housing; and at the bottom, outside the walls, houses for fishermen
and farmers.
The commune's position made it accessible at low tide to the many pilgrims to its abbey,
but defensible as an incoming tide stranded, drove off, or drowned would-be assailants.
The tides can vary greatly, at roughly 46 ft between high and low water marks. During low
tide, one can walk across the sands from the mainland, but pity be to the unwary that gets
caught in the sand flats when the tide moves in.
Due to its position and the tremendously strong tides, the Mont remained unconquered during the
Hundred Years' War, were a small garrison fended off a full attack by the English in 1433.
The reverse benefits of its natural defence were not lost on Louis XI, who turned the Mont into a prison.
Thereafter the abbey began to be used more regularly as a jail during the Ancien Régime.
We made our assault to the top, using the path on the western side of the hill. In
retrospect, that was a mistake, as it has the steepest ascent to the abbey. The wife
and I, along with many others, were dragging by the time we reached the top.
Along the way, we reached the location of the bird. I don't know its significance,
I think it was related to an art show going on at the Great Hall.
Before the construction of the first monastic establishment in the 8th century, the
island was called Mont Tombe. According to legend, the archangel Michael
appeared in 708 to Aubert of Avranches, the bishop of Avranches, and instructed
him to build a church on the rocky islet.
Here are some model pictures showing how the buildings looked in the Xth century,
The XIth and XIIth century,
and how it looks today.
We are finally at the entrance to the abbey.
And the views from there are incredible.
Being Sunday, there was a service going on, though as you can see, many tourists
didn't seem to care and show some respect.
This heavily fortified door led to the clister, where the monks lived. Unfortunately,
there was heavy renovations in progress and so no photos worth taking.
Terminally ill monks where brought to this cell which contained a small statue of
"La Piedad", so that they could contemplate the death of Jesus during their own
final moments.
Now outside the abbey, we commence our descent down into the medieval village
at the bottom of the hill.
The population of Mt. St. Michel (in 1999) is approximately 46 people, but during
daylight hours, thousands come to work in the many shops and restaurants.
We enjoyed a great lunch of the local mussels in a cream broth with a nice German pilsner
under the red canopies. Sadly, the French are incapable of brewing a good beer.
Time to exit the village and motor our way to Le Havre, where our ship is waiting
to take us back to South Hapmton England, for our return home.
Hope you have found this series enjoyable and informative.