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F75 frustration

castletonking

Senior Member
Joined
May 20, 2011
Messages
332
Location
Vermont
ugh! I love my f75 except for all the false signals it gives me.I get signals in the 80's/90's.go to dig it and it's nothing but a square nail or something similar,but oh boy is it spot on with pull tabs lol.I know it's all part of detecting,but it's aggravating.Does anyone have a preferred setting for coinshooting on the f75?
 
If the signal doesn't repeat in the same spot on repeated sweeps, or doesn't pinpoint in the same location, it's junk...I run my 75 wide open, zero disc and 99 sensitivity, and use 3 tone, with the gb manually set at 65...
 
Listen to the tone closely, usually iron and other trash reading as a coin will not sound as clean and crisp as a real coin, and sometimes they will not read in certain sweep directions.
 
Are you swinging just a f75 or the se? I have a SE and never have problems getting false hits. Sometimes I get a high hit then its gone and comes back. Its usually just trash that is in my discrimination zone and it hits all over so it will occasionally pop up. I know when I have a coin or something round because of the steady hit and the number doesn't change. I run in boost most of the time with around 80 sensitivity due to the ground being real noisy on 3 tone. Never had any problems
 
Are you swinging just a f75 or the se? I have a SE and never have problems getting false hits. Sometimes I get a high hit then its gone and comes back. Its usually just trash that is in my discrimination zone and it hits all over so it will occasionally pop up. I know when I have a coin or something round because of the steady hit and the number doesn't change. I run in boost most of the time with around 80 sensitivity due to the ground being real noisy on 3 tone. Never had any problems
I have the regular f75.
 
Listen to the tone closely, usually iron and other trash reading as a coin will not sound as clean and crisp as a real coin, and sometimes they will not read in certain sweep directions.
I found that out today as I was detecting,but I also got 99's 85's and such and it was trash...but I did find 1/2 a crotal bell lol it caome out of the ground as shiny as new.
 
I found that out today as I was detecting,but I also got 99's 85's and such and it was trash...but I did find 1/2 a crotal bell lol it caome out of the ground as shiny as new.

Fishers have also been chatty, the CZ's had the same problem, they would always register rusted nails as high coins, and I know the F1200 Series has the same issue. For the sites I hunt, I dig every signal anyway, but it can be annoying in trashy sites. Your best bet is to turn the sensitivity down some, a smaller coil would also help, I use the 6in elliptical at trashy sites. They do go super deep, the real test of skill is picking out the good signals from the false signals and junk if you're are like me and like to run the detector hot. I've had similar issues with my Explorers, and even some of the Whites detectors i've owned. Rusty junk seems to be a big issues for most machines.
 
The F75/T2 will tell you everything that is in the ground. It gets a bad rap from folks who either didn't have the patients to learn it and those that just didn't gell with it . So Be Patient . Turn your sen. down and disc up till you get used to the beast. Listen very closely to the audio it will tell you what is under the coil. You can tell nails and other pieces of iron from good hits once you get some hours on it.
All machines get fooled by iron
p.s.

I run mine in 4H 0 disc and maxed out most times but you will run into conditions where you will need to crank her down. The depth with the sen on 50 will surprise you sometimes. Also get the 5"dd coil, it is a hot set-up the the F75/T2's.
GL
HH
 
This is spot on advice.

The F75/T2 will tell you everything that is in the ground. It gets a bad rap from folks who either didn't have the patients to learn it and those that just didn't gell with it . So Be Patient . Turn your sen. down and disc up till you get used to the beast. Listen very closely to the audio it will tell you what is under the coil. You can tell nails and other pieces of iron from good hits once you get some hours on it.
All machines get fooled by iron
p.s.

I run mine in 4H 0 disc and maxed out most times but you will run into conditions where you will need to crank her down. The depth with the sen on 50 will surprise you sometimes. Also get the 5"dd coil, it is a hot set-up the the F75/T2's.
GL
HH

This is very good advice. I run a sens at 35, disc at 15, on JE mode with 3 tone. Listen to sound more than VDI. The reason your machine is lying to you is the sens is too high and your overloading the coil. You will suffer some depth at this setting. All Metal mode will have you digging real deep.

I own the gold handled model, not the new one with BP mode. Also make sure you are ground balancing in all metal mode first then switching to DISC mode.
 
This is very good advice. I run a sens at 35, disc at 15, on JE mode with 3 tone. Listen to sound more than VDI. The reason your machine is lying to you is the sens is too high and your overloading the coil. You will suffer some depth at this setting. All Metal mode will have you digging real deep.

I own the gold handled model, not the new one with BP mode. Also make sure you are ground balancing in all metal mode first then switching to DISC mode.

I've always wondered, do the tone, vdi, and notch ID all run separate of each other? Basically our F75's have 3 methods of ID, the tone, the notch, and the VDI which is great unless they are all connected such as a high VDI will automatically register a high tone, which will automatically register in high coin ID on the notch bar so basically what one tells you, the others fall in line automatically. If you guys get what I'm saying haha. It seems like this is the case because I don't recall getting say a medium tone, a high VDI, and a High notch etc. So it doesn't matter which method you use, the tone, VDI, or Notch, they are all saying the same thing. I could be wrong though but it would be much better if each id system used a separate method of analyzing a target so you get 3 true opinions and not one opinion displayed in 3 methods :?::?::?:
 
A coin produces a "round" tone. I know what it sounds like when I hear it but explaining it is a little more difficult. Maybe someone that knows what I'm saying will jump in.
 
I would say contact fisher. They have a 5 year warranty. My bounty hunter did the samething. Constant false hits on highest setting. I just upgraded to the SE. I was getting to frustrated and it made detecting frustrating.
 
Pretty much all metal detectors will false, or lie to you. Better metal detectors are the ones that are poor liars - ones where you can use a variety of little tricks and techniques and logic to determine if it is a good or bad target before you dig it. It allows for some skills to be developed and, this is just a personal thing, it enhances my enjoyment of the hobby when I feel like I am contributing to my own success via experience and skill (regardless of how true it is :lol:)

Anyhow, it's like poker. You watch for a tell and act accordingly when you see it.

Top
 
i was very frustrated with my f75 for the better part of the year and at times, I even thought my machine had an issue. Talked to both captain silver and swinglow about my multiple false signals. Thought my coil was bad but in reality, I needed to play with it for 150+ hours to actually get the machine. Square nails can sound off really well on the F75, but they are choppy. you can tell the difference after a lot of time with it. just keep working and digging. You will get it and when you do, you will love it.

I run my machine with sensitivity as high as I can stand with disc at 4 and in 2 tone. 3 tone was way too hard to handle for me. Might try it next year though.

Good luck.
 
There's a ton of great advice in this post. The one thing that's consistent from everyone is that we all were frustrated at first, I know I was. But after quite a few hours with it, I finally learned how to listen to it. It took me about a year.

I listen for the solid sounding signals first then check the VDI. Sometimes the deeper targets will give a bouncy reading until you get the top couple inches off. I run my sens as high as possibly usually around 87, disc around 5, and 2 tones in BP mode. I dig a few inches off the top of everything that chirps, even the crappy signals. If it nulls out as iron as I sweep in every direction, I cover it up and move on.

It's a great machine, and you'll learn to love it, but it takes patience and persistence to master.
 
I've always wondered, do the tone, vdi, and notch ID all run separate of each other? Basically our F75's have 3 methods of ID, the tone, the notch, and the VDI which is great unless they are all connected such as a high VDI will automatically register a high tone, which will automatically register in high coin ID on the notch bar so basically what one tells you, the others fall in line automatically. If you guys get what I'm saying haha. It seems like this is the case because I don't recall getting say a medium tone, a high VDI, and a High notch etc. So it doesn't matter which method you use, the tone, VDI, or Notch, they are all saying the same thing. I could be wrong though but it would be much better if each id system used a separate method of analyzing a target so you get 3 true opinions and not one opinion displayed in 3 methods :?::?::?:

Audio and VDI are two independent systems, and thus come to their own conclusions about target ID, which is why sometimes they are consistent with each other, and sometimes not. I am not positive, but believe that the "notch " ID across the top of the screen is just a picture of the VDI. SO it is a separate system, and if they are telling you differecnt things, there is a reason that is often worth checking out. For example, low VDI, high consistent tone....
 
There's a ton of great advice in this post. The one thing that's consistent from everyone is that we all were frustrated at first, I know I was. But after quite a few hours with it, I finally learned how to listen to it. It took me about a year.

I listen for the solid sounding signals first then check the VDI. Sometimes the deeper targets will give a bouncy reading until you get the top couple inches off. I run my sens as high as possibly usually around 87, disc around 5, and 2 tones in BP mode. I dig a few inches off the top of everything that chirps, even the crappy signals. If it nulls out as iron as I sweep in every direction, I cover it up and move on.

It's a great machine, and you'll learn to love it, but it takes patience and persistence to master.

I agree, listen to the tone first then look at the vdi, also I've found that if I'm holding my pro pointer in my left hand and swinging with my right I often get a false signal from the pinpointer when sweeping across to the left towards it, now I keep it in its pouch on right hip and no more problem, but prob could have solved it simply by reducing sensitivity, but have patience, its a great machine, I run it in all metal mode, discrim 1, 3 tones. gl & hh
 
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