Confederate CSA button (thanks to Nailfinder85)

ToySoldier

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Nailfinder85 and I met up for the first time to explore one of his permissions in central KY. Old roads, shoulder high weeds, a creek, bushwacking through woods to an old home site, and finishing up in the yard of an 1800s home.

Nailfinder85 found the back of a two piece button right off the bat and then it got quiet for hours. I was having a great time, but thought I was skunked until I finally hit a few pennies. By that time the 90+ degree heat was beating down and we were swinging and listening for decent signals while making our way back to our vehicles. I hit a small, solid 4 inch deep nickel signal and pulled out a small Confederate States of America button.

The back of the button is a mess, and I went at it with a toothpick to see if there are any markings. Not even a hint. The hole is from corrosion. The blank back...possibly a tin back...suggests it was made locally (in the US) to meet the demand during the war and not by one of the European makers.

The Tice book on civil war buttons gives a few examples but also says too many back variations of stateside manufactured CSA buttons were made to ever illustrate or catalog them all.

As shown in the photo, this one measures just shy of 16mm. Cuff size. I've spent the past few days looking at a lot of examples online, but most of them are coat sized.

Veterans reproductions made after the war were made by Waterbury, so it's possible to find 100+ year old reproductions, but those apparently had clear markings and the details of the letters were slightly different.

Given the location found, depth, and apparent age I can't help but think it's the real deal. Any input (and sources) is appreciated.

Along the way, Nailfinder85 taught me a few things about spotting native tools and I offered a few tips on detecting. But, what can you say to a guy that has been detecting for just over a month, is getting good permissions, and has found 1806 Spanish silver in Kentucky?!
 

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[emoji1362]Was a great day, digging was tough at times but we managed a few good finds. ToySoldier gets the find of the day with the civil war “CSA” button, so cool to see it come out of the ground. Bucket lister for me. I appreciated the detecting tips and put them to work tonight. Can’t wait to get back out there.


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[emoji1362]Was a great day, digging was tough at times but we managed a few good finds. ToySoldier gets the find of the day with the civil war “CSA” button, so cool to see it come out of the ground. Bucket lister for me. I appreciated the detecting tips and put them to work tonight. Can’t wait to get back out there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bucket lister absolutely. The spots where we spent the last two hours definitely deserves some more attention. We'll put the big coil onto the AT Pro and see how much of that field you can cover! Perfect site for it....fairly clean and potentially deep targets.
 
I’ll look like a soldier marching back and forth across that field! I went out there tonight “cherry picking” pulled out a few interesting finds but nothing to write home about. I DID however find a “hot spot” of aged items even though they were “junk” it was really old junk and my natural calling, square nails. However, more importantly, several deep targets I passed up. I know permission is very limited out there and we have some time to work on it[emoji1360]. I got another 57 pull tabs out of the way for us......


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I'm in the Ashland area and would love to come down and hunt some old ground in central KY. I've got permission to detect the site of an 1820s salt works and farm in my area, but came up dry on the first go and it's been crazy hot, so I haven't been back yet.
 
I'm in the Ashland area and would love to come down and hunt some old ground in central KY. I've got permission to detect the site of an 1820s salt works and farm in my area, but came up dry on the first go and it's been crazy hot, so I haven't been back yet.

Howdy! I'm always happy to host a hunt when I have a private permission that's big enough and the owner allows for it. I get them on occasion, and had one earlier this year, but don't have one right now. I line up most of my local private permissions for the spring and fall when dirt is softer, the grass recovers better, schedules are more predictable, and people aren't hiding inside or off on vacation.

My summers have been good for research and getting out of town to some fields, woods, and public places where it's allowed. Where I live we can't hunt city/county parks, so it's all private permissions for me unless I get out of town. I do local schools and curb strips on occasion, but I've yet to find anything great. Certainly not anything worth driving in from Ashland.

There was an active metal detecting club around here for years that seems to have dissolved not long after the parks were banned, but they must have hit the parks and schools pretty hard back because I've gone to several old schools and never found silver. I find it regularly on private permissions, however.

If I can line something up appropriate and worthwhile, then I'll let you (and NailFinder) know, and in the meantime perhaps we could meet up somewhere between us and hit some smaller town parks or older neighborhood door knocking.
 
I'm in the Ashland area and would love to come down and hunt some old ground in central KY. I've got permission to detect the site of an 1820s salt works and farm in my area, but came up dry on the first go and it's been crazy hot, so I haven't been back yet.

Don't give up on your site. Sometimes you just have to find the "hot spot". I've had larger permissions where nearly everything worth writing home about was in a 20x20 foot area. I've also gone to permissions and came up empty and then returned and it was like I never detected it. It can just be patience, which can be in short supply when the dirt is hard and the temperatures are hot, or it can be finding the right settings and swing speed to hit a deeper layer of goodies.
 
I'm in the Ashland area and would love to come down and hunt some old ground in central KY. I've got permission to detect the site of an 1820s salt works and farm in my area, but came up dry on the first go and it's been crazy hot, so I haven't been back yet.



Sounds good, I’m certainly happy to share some permissions and I’m working on some good ones. Much like ToySoldier said, I hate to see you drive 160 miles for a corroded penny. Let me get some at least “good potential” spots lined up and we’ll get on it. I’m also willing to travel and your area should be littered with potential on the Ohio River. Stay in touch and best of luck!


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Excellent CSA button find, TS! Knowing almost nothing about Civil War buttons, I would have thought the corroded back would have meant it was a more recent reproduction. Makes sense that more corrosive tin backs would be used to keep up production numbers as the war wore on - thanks for teaching me something new!
 
Excellent CSA button find, TS! Knowing almost nothing about Civil War buttons, I would have thought the corroded back would have meant it was a more recent reproduction. Makes sense that more corrosive tin backs would be used to keep up production numbers as the war wore on - thanks for teaching me something new!

I'm far from an expert, but the focus of the reproductions--both early and later--is on the European designed backs and also the cast one piece buttons. I couldn't find early repro examples of the locally made blank back 2 piece buttons. I can understand why collectors are wary of the blank back versions when the more easily identifiable European buttons are available and have been so thoroughly documented.
 
I'm looking into the possibility that it's the reproduction in the link below. One difference I can see is that the repro button's back is entirely flat, while my button's back is slightly convex/domed. The repro button does have the Waterbury mark, but mine is too corroded to see it. I've contacted the company to see if they can tell me the precise diameter measurement as well as when it first went into production. Mine was 4" deep and has some age/patina to it.

http://buttonbaron.3dcartstores.com/Chin-Strap-Kepi-button-CS-PRICED-PER-EACH_p_493.html
 
I'm looking into the possibility that it's the reproduction in the link below. One difference I can see is that the repro button's back is entirely flat, while my button's back is slightly convex/domed. The repro button does have the Waterbury mark, but mine is too corroded to see it. I've contacted the company to see if they can tell me the precise diameter measurement as well as when it first went into production. Mine was 4" deep and has some age/patina to it.

http://buttonbaron.3dcartstores.com/Chin-Strap-Kepi-button-CS-PRICED-PER-EACH_p_493.html

Looking at the pics from the original post and comparing to the link you posted for the reproduction, I definitely see enough of a difference to continue believing it’s a real wartime button until proven otherwise. I agree, the curvature of the back you pointed out on your dug button is pronounced enough to imply it can’t be a result of corrosion alone, and it looks much more like a back that had a traditional shank attached to it originally, at least to my untrained eye. It’s certainly not an exact match to that particular reproduction.
 
Looking at the pics from the original post and comparing to the link you posted for the reproduction, I definitely see enough of a difference to continue believing it’s a real wartime button until proven otherwise. I agree, the curvature of the back you pointed out on your dug button is pronounced enough to imply it can’t be a result of corrosion alone, and it looks much more like a back that had a traditional shank attached to it originally, at least to my untrained eye. It’s certainly not an exact match to that particular reproduction.

Thanks for the input. I think I'm going to order that repro...it's by far the closest repro I've been able to find online...and do some precise measurements and comparisons. We'll see.
 
congrats.. love that brass

Nailfinder85 and I met up for the first time to explore one of his permissions in central KY. Old roads, shoulder high weeds, a creek, bushwacking through woods to an old home site, and finishing up in the yard of an 1800s home.

Nailfinder85 found the back of a two piece button right off the bat and then it got quiet for hours. I was having a great time, but thought I was skunked until I finally hit a few pennies. By that time the 90+ degree heat was beating down and we were swinging and listening for decent signals while making our way back to our vehicles. I hit a small, solid 4 inch deep nickel signal and pulled out a small Confederate States of America button.

The back of the button is a mess, and I went at it with a toothpick to see if there are any markings. Not even a hint. The hole is from corrosion. The blank back...possibly a tin back...suggests it was made locally (in the US) to meet the demand during the war and not by one of the European makers.

The Tice book on civil war buttons gives a few examples but also says too many back variations of stateside manufactured CSA buttons were made to ever illustrate or catalog them all.

As shown in the photo, this one measures just shy of 16mm. Cuff size. I've spent the past few days looking at a lot of examples online, but most of them are coat sized.

Veterans reproductions made after the war were made by Waterbury, so it's possible to find 100+ year old reproductions, but those apparently had clear markings and the details of the letters were slightly different.

Given the location found, depth, and apparent age I can't help but think it's the real deal. Any input (and sources) is appreciated.

Along the way, Nailfinder85 taught me a few things about spotting native tools and I offered a few tips on detecting. But, what can you say to a guy that has been detecting for just over a month, is getting good permissions, and has found 1806 Spanish silver in Kentucky?!
 
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