Myers Depot Metal Detectors

auto repair, what would you do?

Franz

Franz

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I'm looking for votes on which route to take. My timing chain tensioner guides have worn out (at least one of them has) on my vq40de. I'm looking at new chains (the two culprit ones are less than $20 a piece, but w/ my mileage the primary should be changed too while the cover is off, so that will increase parts cost by about $80), tensioner guides, assorted o-rings and seals, new h20 pump (again, mileage and the cover off, cost increase about $100), and a couple needed tools.

Cost at dealer: around $2,800 (already a no go)
Cost at myself: around $450-$500 w/ factory parts and shipping
Cost at independent garage: No idea

I'm kind of leery about having anyone do work on my engine because I can't see if anything was missed. But it's also a lot less of a hassle and headaches if someone else does the job! It's an easy repair, just tedious and time consuming, especially when it's your means of transportation.
 
Sounds like you have the know-how so if you have the time I would do it myself. If you don't have the time an independent garage might be okay if you know them. Dealer is expensive but they have rates they go by and time schedules for each type of repair.
 
If you have the tools and a service manual, go for it. BTW when I stumped on a car problem, check out youtube, lots of help there also.
 
I change out all wear parts while doing these jobs, chains, tensioners, guides. seals. and also the water pump if it runs off the chain or belt being replaced. Always rotate engine 2 revolutions and double check timing marks before buttoning up the job.
Good luck.
 
It sounds like you may need to do the job yourself , unless you know someone at a small garage , or someone can recommend a garage . Maybe find a friend to help you out . That way you wont drink the whole case of beer by yourself and get drunk and pass out before the job is done . :lol:
 
I am thinking that by asking this question you are not 100% confident doing this job? This is not an afternoon job, and I'm sure you kow that if you make an error lining the chains up you can do hundreds if not a couple thousand dollars of damage to the valves and cylinder heads. Do you have the specialized cam holding tools if needed or know how to fabricate them?

On a positive note, there are most likely YouTube videos showing how to do this which are a godsend.

http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/fron...timing-chain-tensioner-whine-vq40-repair.html
 
I've not done a chain, but have done belts a couple times, along with a head job, on a Isuzu Rodeo 4cyl. 2x was enough. I wouldn't ever care to do it again.

That said, I saved a lot of money, and my dad helped a great deal which was some good time spent there. But the stress of it all would get to me, and it took me a few weekends to get it done.

If you like/enjoy working on cars I'd say do it. If you need to save money, same thing, do it. I don't doubt your ability, but to me, no joy there!

Best of luck!
 
zeemang said:
That's a ton of money at the dealer, i'd shop some independent garages before i decided anything...
Click to expand...

Ditto. I used to do lots of my own work when I was younger and engine compartments were more open, but not more. Independent all the way. Start asking friends if they know anyone. Word of mouth works many times.

Dealerships get no respect from me.
 
If I had the smarts and especially if I had all necessary tools, I would probably attempt it myself. I mention having all the tools because when I worked up the nerve to change my daughter's wheel bearing, it had fused to the wheel and came apart. I needed a gear puller to get the remaining part off but I didn't have one. Thankfully a neighbor showed me how to improvise one. And to make things worse, when I took the caliper off it fell out of my hands and snapped a cable (even more $$$). I was now in over my head.

In the end I had the wheel bearing done at the dealer. The price wasn't too bad and they even used my parts which surprised me. The broken cable I had replaced at Meineke with parts I had to order from the dealer, but if I had a few extra days could have just ordered online for cheaper. I broke the cable so I paid the price for my mistake.

Auto shops know every customer that rolls in is usually in a bind and can't afford to have a car out of commission too long so many just bend over and take it when the bill arrives. Been there, done that. When my daughter's flex pipe rusted out, the idiotic dealer said a whole new exhaust system would need to be done since it was part of the catalytic converter. Their price was $1100. I took it to Meineke and they charged me about $200. No new catalytic converter, just cut out the pipe. Easy peasy. I didn't let this one go. I called up the service manager and gave her an earful about her "doom and gloom" scenarios about what could happen. This b*tch even tried to charge me $60 to replace my license plate light. Seriously????

-DIY if you 100% have the confidence and the smarts. 99% isn't good enough for me.
-Find a friend. Hold back on the beer until the job is done.
-Get to know a family-run auto shop. Many good experiences with them.
-Dealership service departments are MFers.
 
Dealers will suck you, needed a window regulator for auto window they wanted $140 went to advance auto $70 did the job myself go to a independent repair shop you will save money
 
Thanks for all the replies. I've decided to do it myself. I would love to stretch the job out and dig in and do more stuff, but I can't bum rides for too long. Independent garage isn't that much less than dealership. I've got 140k on the vehicle, so with the money saved doing it myself I can take care of other stuff.

It's a pretty easy job, just time consuming. The only thing I dread is corroded/seized bolts, there shouldn't be any of that in the engine! The bolts on the alternator and power steering pump are exposed, but clean. I haven't looked at the ones on the access to the flywheel yet, they're underneath, so could be rusty heads, but fortunately the threads are not in the open.

I might order some new valve cover gaskets just in case. That way if for any reason I can't see the marks on the cam sprockets and chains, I can just pull the right cover and look at the #1 cylinder cam lobes.
 
choppadude said:
I change out all wear parts while doing these jobs, chains, tensioners, guides. seals. and also the water pump if it runs off the chain or belt being replaced. Always rotate engine 2 revolutions and double check timing marks before buttoning up the job.
Good luck.
Click to expand...

I definitely planned on water pump. Like you, a retired mechanic also told me to go ahead and do the tensioners, and not just the tensioner pads, so I'll ad them to the list. Adding guides (slack side too), mind as well do it all now, and not again a couple thousand miles from now.
 
Update - succes!

I finally found time to do my engine work. Wow, this was a tedious job; but all chains, tensioners, some guides, and water pump have been changed. My old tensioner "guides" on my cam chains were worn to just about nothing. The passenger side chain had so much slack it could slap against the cover. Once I torqued everything to spec, I turned the crank by hand one full revolution of the primary chain and all is good. I'll turn it another revolution before I put all the covers back on just to be sure, but doubt there will be any piston to valve contact if there wasn't on the first revolution.

All I have to be concerned with now is that I put the rtv on thoroughly and don't have any leaks. That can wait for tomorrow.

This is only the second time I've worked inside an engine since my teens. Back then, I hated it because I just wanted to go drive and hang out. Plus, it was a full rebuild, so it took a lot longer. But, after this experience, I can honestly say I'll take engine work over suspension, exhaust, and drive train any day - don't have to be under the car dealing w/ frozen bolts and grit falling in my face!

I'm sure I missed out on some great low tides while I've been wrenching, but there will be others!
 
yeah you really have to pay attention to details on this type of motor work. Sounds like you did it right though. A lot of people ignore the waterpump and then have to go back on a year or two later to change it.
Is your can chain tensioner spring loaded or oil pressure driven?

Hope you get many more miles on the vehicle.
 
I can't say I really enjoy having to repair stuff. It is sort of fun learning stuff, solving those little problems, the sense of accomplishment. Mostly, I'm cheap, and the price of the parts, is usually a small fraction of the cost, if you have someone do the work for you. I also like have the peace of mind, knowing what was done, how it was done, and what to expect out of my repair job.

Last time I bought tires, I had a real interesting experience. I bought a '94 Ford Ranger, the P.O.S. edition, of course. But, was in desperate need of a replacement vehicle. Wasn't much tread left on the tires, but not bad on dry pavement, so drove it for a while, until I picked up a drywall screw. Figured it was time to get those tires. Would have gone with used, but they were of an unfortunate size, and after trying a few places, decided new was my only choice. Had to call around, just to find a place that had a set in stock, Pep Boys... Well, with the purchase of a new set of tires, you get a free oil change, mount and balance, wheel alignment, cool. They got to the wheel alignment, tell me they can't, because I've got worn parts, which need to be replace soon. Told me that I need wheel bearings replaced. Gave me an estimate of $1765.00, which I thought was crazy, since the I paid $2100 for the truck, and not because I really wanted it, just needed transportation. Being it's an old Ford truck, it of course produces a lot of interesting, and untraceable sound effects while driving, so consider the front suspension/steering a possible source. Told them I needed to think about it some, not really loving the truck, repairs would almost be as much as the purchase of a different vehicle (not that picky, will drive most anything). Well, been over two years now, truck still running well. The new tires reduce the noises quite a bit. After doing the brakes, it not such an interesting sound machine anymore. Discovered the source of much of the noise, a broken spring in the right rear wheel brakes. Really messed up some stuff, but not real expensive to correct. Figure after two years of daily driving, a front end issue would show in tire wear, not a sign. The parts didn't look pretty when I did the front brakes, and had raise, nor did I find them loose or sloppy. Wheel bearings should have failed long ago, I cross two railroad tracks, and several speed bumps, ever time I drive to or from work. Pretty sure they tried to sell me repairs I really didn't need.
 
HarveyH48 said:
I can't say I really enjoy having to repair stuff. It is sort of fun learning stuff, solving those little problems, the sense of accomplishment. Mostly, I'm cheap, and the price of the parts, is usually a small fraction of the cost, if you have someone do the work for you. I also like have the peace of mind, knowing what was done, how it was done, and what to expect out of my repair job.

Last time I bought tires, I had a real interesting experience. I bought a '94 Ford Ranger, the P.O.S. edition, of course. But, was in desperate need of a replacement vehicle. Wasn't much tread left on the tires, but not bad on dry pavement, so drove it for a while, until I picked up a drywall screw. Figured it was time to get those tires. Would have gone with used, but they were of an unfortunate size, and after trying a few places, decided new was my only choice. Had to call around, just to find a place that had a set in stock, Pep Boys... Well, with the purchase of a new set of tires, you get a free oil change, mount and balance, wheel alignment, cool. They got to the wheel alignment, tell me they can't, because I've got worn parts, which need to be replace soon. Told me that I need wheel bearings replaced. Gave me an estimate of $1765.00, which I thought was crazy, since the I paid $2100 for the truck, and not because I really wanted it, just needed transportation. Being it's an old Ford truck, it of course produces a lot of interesting, and untraceable sound effects while driving, so consider the front suspension/steering a possible source. Told them I needed to think about it some, not really loving the truck, repairs would almost be as much as the purchase of a different vehicle (not that picky, will drive most anything). Well, been over two years now, truck still running well. The new tires reduce the noises quite a bit. After doing the brakes, it not such an interesting sound machine anymore. Discovered the source of much of the noise, a broken spring in the right rear wheel brakes. Really messed up some stuff, but not real expensive to correct. Figure after two years of daily driving, a front end issue would show in tire wear, not a sign. The parts didn't look pretty when I did the front brakes, and had raise, nor did I find them loose or sloppy. Wheel bearings should have failed long ago, I cross two railroad tracks, and several speed bumps, ever time I drive to or from work. Pretty sure they tried to sell me repairs I really didn't need.
Click to expand...


You would not believe how many people come to me after receiving a $800 - $900 quote for brake work from Monroe, Midas or Goodyear. Normally I am able to get them out of the shop for right around $400 - $500. And that is new pads, rotors, drums, shoes and hardware. And I charge $50 an hour labor.
I see most fuel pump replacement jobs are right around $500 now through the big boys!
I hope they keep on doing what they are doing because I have more work than I can stand right now LOL!
 
Hopefully it all went OK

Franz, hopefully you did do what Choppadude said. You gotta turn the crankshaft through two (2) complete turns to get the valve train to complete one (1) full cycle. 4 Strokers are that way. Again, hope all went well for you.
Cheers
Dave
 
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