Electrolysis questions, my setup, and the results

[TCosbyJr]

First some questions to others that use electrolysis to clean coins or other relics. My questions are what material do others use for the anode (positive lead)? Is multiple anodes needed for electrolysis? What volt and amps power supplies are used (seems bigger is better)? Lastly, what are good recipes for the solution to clean the part/items?

Now on to my setup and results - Here is my basic setup...



The first image is when I tried a thick copper wire to act as my positive anode. I figured as I was cleaning a penny it would be better, turns out it was a poor anode and leached blue/green foam into the water.

The second image is after I switched to a large steel spoon, and a car battery charger.

Here is a larger electrolysis setup I did for a large metal plate (turned out to be a stove ash door)...



My setup is simple - a plastic container, I used improvised "washing/laundry soda" in the water, positive power connected to the spoon, I clamp/hang my part from a wooden rod that is clamped into place, and the negative power is connected to the part to clean.

To prevent damage to my electrical clamps I do not place them in the water. For the positive clamp I clamped the spoon to the plastic container and clamp the power to the top of the spoon. My negative clamp either clamps to part of the item to clean that is out of the water, or for coins/rings - the clamp connects to a copper stranded wire on the wooden dowel and at the end of the copper wire a small alligator clamp holds the coin.



Many sites I visited recommended simple wall adapter power supplies that were 12 volts or larger. I found a 12 volt supply, but as it isn't the power but the amps that do the work - the simple 1/2 amp supply didn't do much.

Other sites recommend car battery chargers that are rated at least 6 amps or larger so I tried mine. For electrolysis I usually get 2 to 4 amps, depending on how dirty the part to clean is, and how good of a connection my clamps get. I would recommend a car battery charger - much more power and gets the job done much better.

For coins it usually takes 3 to 10 minutes depending on how clean I want it, and the large plate took about 12 hours.

I have my setup in my bathroom, windows for ventilation and a overhead fan. Also it has the safety outlets, and for added electrical safety I use a surge protector that will trip/break if something goes wrong.

If anyone hasn't tried electrolysis cleaning before here are some great sites to get you started...

• Electrolysis Coin Cleaning Tutorial
• Rust Removal using Electrolysis
• Electrolytic Rust Removal aka Magic
• Cleaning Cast Iron using Electrolysis

Here are the results of some of my electrolysis cleaning - top row is the before images and the bottom row is after cleaning...

[Oldsjunkie]

I personally use strips of stainless steel that I bought a big bundle of from a flea market. I only do coins really so a plastic cup with the strip of stainless (1.5"X8") bent into a "U" shape and pushed to the bottom of the cup. I leave one end of the "U" longer than the other so it sticks out of the cup for my positive lead. Two "V" notches in the cup with a large gauge copper wire for hanging coins and depending on the coin, stainless mesh or aluminum foil for a basket to hang them in. 12V 1amp power supply from an old modem and always distilled water. Put in a couple tablespoons of baking soda until the power supply gets warm to the touch, but not hot enough to burn. Works like a charm!

[NoShow]

Originally Posted by Oldsjunkie

I personally use strips of stainless steel that I bought a big bundle of from a flea market.

Just to keep everyone safe, there are problems using stainless steel... dangerous chemicals are produced.

http://antique-engines.com/stainless...electrodes.htm

Be safe!

[ramer]

Thanks for your informative post.

I have tried electroylisis on large iron objects but have never tried it for coins. Was kinda hesitant thinking it might remove too much metal.
I have read up on electroylisis and stainless steel as the anode is extremely frowned upon, I think because of noxious gases it give off. Most sites just suggest you use plain steel like found in cookie sheets or pie pans. True, this kind of steel won't last as long but who cares. I buy these things by the dozens at garage sales for practically nothing. I like pie pans because you can bend it to wrap around the target making the whole thing much more effective.
Also, baking soda is ok, but more effective is the Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda found in the detergent section in all markets.
The only thing I don't like about electroylisis is that it turns the target black. Haven't figured out how to restore it to a more familiar looking iron color.
I will try some old copper pennies in the electroylisis to see how they turn out.

[NoShow]

I always used rebar and bend it in a U shape and use it in a 5 gallon container.

Woked great for me and inexpensive.

[NoShow]

Originally Posted by ramer

Also, baking soda is ok, but more effective is the Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda found in the detergent section in all markets.
The only thing I don't like about electroylisis is that it turns the target black. Haven't figured out how to restore it to a more familiar looking iron color.

Arm and Hammer Washing Soda is THE way to go.

When I cleaned up old iron, I would wash the piece and use 0000 steel wool with soap and it removes the black residue. You can also use brass brushes from "Horror Freight" stores or you could also use your wifes toothbrush.

However I would never use them on coins of any value or historical significance!

[ramer]

Thanks for your informative post.

I have tried electroylisis on large iron objects but have never tried it for coins. Was kinda hesitant thinking it might remove too much metal.
I have read up on electroylisis and stainless steel as the anode is extremely frowned upon, I think because of noxious gases it give off. Most sites just suggest you use plain steel like found in cookie sheets or pie pans. True, this kind of steel won't last as long but who cares. I buy these things by the dozens at garage sales for practically nothing. I like pie pans because you can bend it to wrap around the target making the whole thing much more effective.
Also, baking soda is ok, but more effective is the Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda found in the detergent section in all markets.
The only thing I don't like about electroylisis is that it turns the target black. Haven't figured out how to restore it to a more familiar looking iron color.
I will try some old copper pennies in the electroylisis to see how they turn out.

[Oldsjunkie]

Without using stainless I won't have the ingredients for my famous hex-chrom shakes.

[TCosbyJr]

Thanks for the responses, glad to see others use the method as well. Some great posts, and I thank everyone for writing on the topic.

I agree the "washing/laundry soda" made from modified baking soda isn't the best, and I am looking for something better. I'll see if I can get some of the A&H Super Washing Soda in my area.

In regards to the spoon, or stainless steel, I have seen many warnings about it. I'm not sure if the old spoon is stainless or not, likely is, so I will try some old baking and pie pans.

Originally Posted by Oldsjunkie

.. stainless mesh or aluminum foil for a basket to hang them in. ...

A great idea I will have to try. I have been wondering how to do multiple coins without doing it one at a time or making lots of containers and lots of electric wires looking like a dangerous octopus.

I thought of making a wire mesh basket to hold coins, or simply find a metal container to hold them in. Hmm, sounds like time for more experiments.

[NoShow]

Originally Posted by Oldsjunkie

Without using stainless I won't have the ingredients for my famous hex-chrom shakes.

Gotta love those hex-chrom shakes... mmm... mmm... good!

[flyin-lowe]

i have read a lot about using stainless steel. Testing has shown that an electro set up does not have enough power to produce those toxins mentioned above. Welding can do it but the low current, amperage, etc we are dealing with will not do it. Besides the readings I know a person who sent samples off to a lab to settle an argument with another person. He had used SS to clean hundreds of skillets and there was no sign of anything bad in his water, or on his stainless steel.

[Indotguy]

For small items like coins I use steel wool as the sacrificial anode. It rest at the bottom of a plastic ice cream tub and the relic is suspended above. Works well for me.

[flyin-lowe]

Also (to add to this old thread) electrolysis works by line of sight. So if your anode is on wide side of your bucket and you have a coin facing it then only that side of the coin will get the full affect of the electrolysis. My large setup has a piece of SS sheet metal lined all the way around my barrel. I have also seen people clean skillets uses grated metal (like a grill grate) as an anode. On a large flat surface like a cast iron skillet it will cause ghosting and you will see the outline of the grill grate on the skillet because of the line of sight cleaning.

[Chad]

Originally Posted by flyin-lowe

Also (to add to this old thread) electrolysis works by line of sight. So if your anode is on wide side of your bucket and you have a coin facing it then only that side of the coin will get the full affect of the electrolysis. My large setup has a piece of SS sheet metal lined all the way around my barrel. I have also seen people clean skillets uses grated metal (like a grill grate) as an anode. On a large flat surface like a cast iron skillet it will cause ghosting and you will see the outline of the grill grate on the skillet because of the line of sight cleaning.

[Glennz]

I would be careful with this method, if you leave it in too long it will eat the metal and take paint off your items.