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CTX 3030 programs

bibelot

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Joined
Nov 25, 2016
Messages
1,620
Location
Avoca,NY
I just figured out how to download programs. What programs do you use or would recommend ?
 
So I developed or built my own starting base pattern from previously found items that I scanned for numbers since Minelab's numbers are totally different than anything else I've used.. Realizing someone else's program may not work as well for you without tweaking to suit your needs. I'm pretty much flying by the seat of my pants and not knowing a whole lot, since my CTX Handbook is en route in delivery and the fact that I just started metal detecting last April of this year. I've figured out ferrous is top to bottom and conductivity is left to right. What I haven't quite figured out is how to layer the mode column so I'm not altering or conflicting selections for my search pattern. I'm starting with Long response/fast recovery/Ground coin target separation/normal pinpoint and I like the trace pinpoint option for when you have more than one target displayed at a time. The first time I seen multiple targets displayed , I was like can this really be happening ? I wouldn't have dreamed that to be possible.I'm looking forward to what I can find when using my own program. I guess I will start with altering one thing at a time to see if I can improve on the program.
 
I use the Dr. Tones Pattern and have had great success with it. You are more than welcome to stop by and I can download it off my Exchange 2 onto your unit
 
I finally figured out how to get windows 10 to work with the exchange 2 software.and not have it create a zip file., I' ve downloaded and archived a ton of programs from online but I will look for that particular program.Thanks again .it looks like Andy's handbook will arrive tomorrow.
 
I don't recommend anybody's program. What works for me, in my hunts, in my location may be complete garbage for you.

You have to learn the detector and what each of the settings do so that you can create the best "program" for your hunts. When you are changing the reject pattern away from the factory set there only 2 schools of thought. You are either opening it up to accept a lot more targets, or you are closing it down to accept fewer. You have to decide which fits best to your hunting.
 
Jason is correct, you will be making changes to modes and eventually developing your own, so pay attention to what each mode changes. This will, in the beginning, teach you the various settings and parameters that you can change depending on your site.
 
I don't recommend anybody's program. What works for me, in my hunts, in my location may be complete garbage for you.

You have to learn the detector and what each of the settings do so that you can create the best "program" for your hunts. When you are changing the reject pattern away from the factory set there only 2 schools of thought. You are either opening it up to accept a lot more targets, or you are closing it down to accept fewer. You have to decide which fits best to your hunting.

That is why choppa input is much appreciated.He lives 20 minutes away, if it works for him, there is a good chance that it will work for me. Thank you all for the responses.I've much to learn.
 
I agree with Jason as well. You gotta find what works for you: your type of hunting in your area.

However, I'm guessing the OP wanted us to post our preferred programs for the sake of discussion or for anyone who just wants to try them out?

Attached below is my go-to program for hunting in heavy iron.

Its actually a combination of two of my favorite programs. Trashy Park and Tadpole. I call it Dirty Frog. The idea behind it is to get pretty much all US coins and most medium to large jewelry. Fairly open pattern to help prevent masking. I usually run this with ferrous-coin, but if running high trash separation, I would lower the bottom tone break down a few notches.

It will knock out most of the annoying small iron in the bottom righthand corner so that the target ID isn't so jumpy. It also knocks out everything on the back side of nickels. You will miss some tiny rings or other small jewelry, but the trade off is that it gets rid of most small foil and other junk items. Even though the right hand side of the nickel notch is open, you'll still be able to ID nickels by the tone due to the way the bins are set up. Different tones for nickels, indians through wheats, and then the highest tone for silvers or clad dimes and quarters.

Using Ferrous-Coin separation, the machine tries to push good targets toward the 12 line, but I leave the upper right side open so that I will still get large silvers if I decide to switch to High Trash.

Settings are:
Mode: Combined
Separation: Ferrous-Coin
Response: Normal
Fast: ON
Deep: OFF
Seawater: OFF
 

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Thank you for the responses. I'm not sure what I was asking. I'm just feeling a bit overwhelmed from the limited experience that I have.
 
the handbook will definitely explain everything you want to know

He could have cut much of the repetition and saved pages but yes, it did explain most things well. I just need the weather to cooperate so I can familiarize myself the from actually using it.
 
I agree with Jason as well. You gotta find what works for you: your type of hunting in your area.

However, I'm guessing the OP wanted us to post our preferred programs for the sake of discussion or for anyone who just wants to try them out?

Attached below is my go-to program for hunting in heavy iron.

Its actually a combination of two of my favorite programs. Trashy Park and Tadpole. I call it Dirty Frog. The idea behind it is to get pretty much all US coins and most medium to large jewelry. Fairly open pattern to help prevent masking. I usually run this with ferrous-coin, but if running high trash separation, I would lower the bottom tone break down a few notches.

It will knock out most of the annoying small iron in the bottom righthand corner so that the target ID isn't so jumpy. It also knocks out everything on the back side of nickels. You will miss some tiny rings or other small jewelry, but the trade off is that it gets rid of most small foil and other junk items. Even though the right hand side of the nickel notch is open, you'll still be able to ID nickels by the tone due to the way the bins are set up. Different tones for nickels, indians through wheats, and then the highest tone for silvers or clad dimes and quarters.

Using Ferrous-Coin separation, the machine tries to push good targets toward the 12 line, but I leave the upper right side open so that I will still get large silvers if I decide to switch to High Trash.

Settings are:
Mode: Combined
Separation: Ferrous-Coin
Response: Normal
Fast: ON
Deep: OFF
Seawater: OFF

Thank you for taking the time to put the post together, it is helpful.
 
I ran the dirty frog program today for a bit, among other programs. First time I actually felt like I knew what I was doing.There is a pull tab that falls in 12.22 range that is sure to drain my battery if I don't build a new pattern to discriminate them out. I rejected the target but they seem to fall in all around the rejected area. I actually had a couple short high squeals in lower tone mix that was a coin amongst the trash. It took a bit to find the source, I haven't got that quite up to snuff yet.:laughing: DSCN0059.JPG
 
Looks like you're doing pretty good! Yeah those dang pull tabs can be a pain since different sizes and shapes read all over the place. If you want the gold rings you gotta dig em.


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Choppa and I hunted at the fair grounds this morning. I learned something new, so it wasn't a wasted trip. Just when I thought I was getting somewhere, I was ever so wrong.:laughing:I got skunked ! Hard digging for the nails and trash bits that I did recover, I am humbled by my inferior knowledge. I stopped at a park on the way home from getting skunked and pulled a few coins. There is trashy areas and then there are trashy areas. The fair grounds we hunted is the 197th consecutive year running,the longest in the US history. The 197 years worth of trash was totally overwhelming for me to comprehend but Choppa explained a lot of what I was doing wrong. I've much to learn.My days salvage of clad, a few 1966, nothing to write home about.DSCN0060.JPG
 
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