ctx 3030 question

vla

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Hi! I am researching before ordering my first detector. My number one choice, so far is the minelab ctx 3030. I will be using it on farmland, parks and the beech in the UK. Can you advise me what are the weaknesses of this model? Is there any cheaper detector that will perform just as well for inland and beach work?

Does the CTX 3030 show ground mineralization level, like the Fisher detectors?

Sorry for the barrage of questions!
 
If your looking at just one detector you can get on the beach with and in land then you really cant beat the CTX. That being said, some precautions are necessary like checking the o rings after each use, but maintenance comes with any machine. I recently upgraded to the CTX myself and its my only machine at the moment but I am very happy with my purchase.
 
Hi! I am researching before ordering my first detector. My number one choice, so far is the minelab ctx 3030. I will be using it on farmland, parks and the beech in the UK. Can you advise me what are the weaknesses of this model? Is there any cheaper detector that will perform just as well for inland and beach work?

Does the CTX 3030 show ground mineralization level, like the Fisher detectors?

Sorry for the barrage of questions!

no it does not show you ground mineralization
 
I've owned my CTX for about 2 years now. Never used it on the beach but know several who do. I've had absolutely 0 problems thus far. My battery pack died recently but I believe that's to be expected, it's been used hard and frequently. Didn't like the Koss headset that was part of the package. Upgraded to Sun Ray Pro Golds and love the set up. So far I have the standard coil and was given, for Christmas, the 6 incher. The standard is great as is the 6 incher in trashy environments and heavy brush. Unfortunetly, with the 6 incher it feels like I'm trying to paint a field with a pencil erasure.
The rubber grip material got chewed up pretty good but I recovered it using silicone rubber self sealing tape, worked great. You might consider putting it on preemptively.
As for showing ground mineralization......NO. It has both manual and auto ground balance and works great, we have many areas that are quite hot while others pretty quiet. Never have a problem regardless.
Once you learn the machine it's killer.
 
Hi! I am researching before ordering my first detector. My number one choice, so far is the minelab ctx 3030. I will be using it on farmland, parks and the beech in the UK. Can you advise me what are the weaknesses of this model? Is there any cheaper detector that will perform just as well for inland and beach work?

Does the CTX 3030 show ground mineralization level, like the Fisher detectors?

Sorry for the barrage of questions!

In my opinion, the CTX is the best all-purpose detector available on the market. It is waterproof for hunting up to 10-feet deep and in rain, and it uses multiple frequencys to compensate for mineralized ground and conductive salt water. Add a very accurate ID screen, and well, I can't recommend any detector in its place. Also, the controls are pretty much turn on and go. You only need to read the manual or CTX book to learn finer techniques of tuning, but nonetheless, tuning that is mostly unnessesary for getting out and going.

For the rest of your detecting options, I copy and pasted a previous commentary I wrote to give you an idea of other detectors.


In short, any detector will work in the dry sand. Getting detectors to work in the wet sand or submerged in salt water is the challenge that becomes expensive.

Single frequency detectors will work in the wet sand by decreasing the sensitivity. This means you'll lose depth and/or sensitivity to small targets. Additionally, it is common for these detectors to give random erroneous signals and noisy chatter.

Multi-frequency detectors will compensate for the conductive salt and mineralization without losing depth and sensitivity. The benefit is they (usually) are quiet and give an honest signal, if it beeps, there is something there. M/F detectors consequently cost more and the price goes up if you want them waterproof. The main advantage to a M/F detector is that you can discriminate unwanted targets like iron. This means you can cherry pick targets and make the most use of limited time.

PI or pulse induction detectors are the cost efficient alternative to MF detectors. They work great in salt water, but the caveat is they do not discriminate (well).


Multifrequency detectors would include the following:

Fisher:
CZ-3d (older models were the CZ-5 and CZ-6) not waterproof
CZ-7, 7a, 7apro & 70 (all are older models that are splash proof)
CZ-21 (older model is the 20) completely waterproof

Minelab
Safari (older model was the Quattro) not waterproof
Explorer (all are older models... X, XS, II, Se, & SePro) not waterproof
Sovereign (older model not waterproof)
E-trac (not waterproof)
Excallibur (waterproof)
CTX-3030 (waterproof)

Whites -
Beach Hunter ID (waterproof)
DFX (not waterproof)
VXi and variants (not waterproof)

PI units...
Garrett Sea hunter, Infinium, ATX
Tesoro Sand Shark
Aquasound/pulse
JW Fisher
Fisher Impulse
Detectorpro pulse (note only the pulse model, not the diver, wader, or pirate)

Note: there are others but these are the common ones.
 
For your first detector the CTX may be too much for you. It is considered to the one of the best detectors out there and is the flagship for Minelab. While it will do everything that you have said you would be doing. I do not think you will enjoy it as your first detector.
 
Great! Very encouraging answers! Looks like I am on the right track with the CTX!
Thanks guys!
 
A vey expensive machine for your first one, where to use it should be high on your priority list?

Some public beaches are subject to the Crown Foreshore Permit requirements, some of course are not.

I would assume public parks will have local bye laws forbidding metal detecting, I know our council do not allow the use of metal detecting in our public parks and open spaces.

So that just leaves private farm land where you would need the landowners permission, so you could have a very expensive piece of equipment with a limited places to use it?
 
Hi! I am researching before ordering my first detector. My number one choice, so far is the minelab ctx 3030. I will be using it on farmland, parks and the beech in the UK.


For what you want to do, I say you picked the right machine. Sure you could get a dedicated land and dedicated water machine, but for a single all-rounder, my humble opinion is you got it right.

As far as it being too much for a new user, It boils down to how driven you are. The fact that your assessment brought you to the CTX based on your hunting conditions, tells me you have done your homework. I say get Andy's book and enjoy learning your machine. There are several people (myself included) who purchased mid level machines only to purchase a higher end machine only months later.

Now I don't own a CTX, but as mentioned keep up with the maintenance and inspection of the o-rings. I'll let the actual owners advise you if you should submerge it or not. I know some people who don't, only because they don't want to chance it (however small the possibility is of a leak) just based on the amount invested into the purchase.
 
Oh one last thing, give Fort Bedford Detectors a call. Customer service is far above board in addition to very competitive pricing. They are the best in my book.
 
Oh one last thing, give Fort Bedford Detectors a call. Customer service is far above board in addition to very competitive pricing. They are the best in my book.

Thanks for the great advise!
 
For your first detector the CTX may be too much for you. It is considered to the one of the best detectors out there and is the flagship for Minelab. While it will do everything that you have said you would be doing. I do not think you will enjoy it as your first detector.

I love steep learning curves.
My first photo-camera was Nikon F90X, and now I am a very advanced photographer:cool:
 
A vey expensive machine for your first one, where to use it should be high on your priority list?

Some public beaches are subject to the Crown Foreshore Permit requirements, some of course are not.

I would assume public parks will have local bye laws forbidding metal detecting, I know our council do not allow the use of metal detecting in our public parks and open spaces.

So that just leaves private farm land where you would need the landowners permission, so you could have a very expensive piece of equipment with a limited places to use it?

Thanks for the advise! I did my homework, and now I have three permissions from farmers in the Kidderminster area already. I'll be using the detector in my country of origin - Bulgaria(very few restrictions there) and my closest beaches are Barmouth and Porthcawl - Crown estate free beaches.
I will visit my local club meeting this week to talk to the local guys before I commit to the CTX.
 
It does have a very steep learning curve - probably the steepest out of any detector I've ever used. So please know that your first 20-30 hours on the machine are going to be learning the settings, how to metal detect, etc. So plan on a lot of practice runs. Also, buy Andy's book, and read it 2-3 before you even go out, then after you go out, read it again. Do that several times.

As far as other detectors, the minelab etrac/safari, and fisher CZ3D, would all work as well on all of the places you detect. The CTX has an advantage over those in that its waterproof up to 10ft and has GPS. Depth/detecting wise it would be similar. So if you can afford it, just get the CTX but you will do just as well with any of the others if you aren't going into the water.
 
As far as a steep learning curve.

This is relative here.

What do I mean by saying??

CTX can be turned on select say coin program set sens to auto plus 3 and hunt.
In this configuration,,CTX will hunt and be deeper on many coins than a othof other detectors.

No monkeying around with ground balance either.

Detector will run very stable in most cases when set up like this too.

The steep(er) part of the learning curve is when you start running higher sensitivity,,,and when you start trying to use the detector in sites with super high quantities of iron and nails.

The ID system is unconventional vs more typical Vlf detectors.

This ID system employed is actually simpler IMO vs more conventional Vlf detectors,,and a person coming off of one of these,,,is probably where they will struggle the most,until they get use to it.

Really not a lot of settings on CTX to be done to get some great performance.
Detector Ground balance,,and using noise cancel to mitigate emi,,one of the smoother running units available for most sites.

I could teach a new person to detecting,,I think I could teach them how to get somewhat proficient a lot faster than a White's V3i/vx3, Xp Deus for sure.

The depth meter accuracy on the CTX helps with learning too.
 
Thanks guys! Great insides! Can't wait to start learning. I've been approved for an interest free loan and I am getting the CTX next month.

What is this book you are recommending?
 
They're talking about a book on the CTX by Andy Sabisch. It's really indepth with numerous "modes" you can try. It not only describes the modes but why they have certain advantages given conditions, targets etc. You should get it. Somebody will pipe in on the name. I forget what its called, CTX 3030 manual, something like that. I alaso bought another book when I started out. CTX first aid book or something like that. Nice well done book that's small and can help when you start. Just a quick little guide that tells you how to do what it is you want to do. How to navigate the screen is what I'm trying to say.
 
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