plastic coil mount removal?

SlingingCoils

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May 7, 2017
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Burlington NJ
I have a excal 2 and I am trying to mod the lower shaft but in order to do so I need to remove the plastic coil hinge that is either pressed or epoxied into the lower shaft, any clues on how to remove it without destroying the lower shaft?
 

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Unless they used hi temp epoxy, most adhesives release about 200 deg F. So boiling water should do the trick. If it's a press fit that should also work.
 
If heating the glue doesn't work. You could always cut the tubing above the hinge, leaving enough of the original tubing to facilitate reattachment. Either by an internal "plug" or external sleeve. Just make sure your plug/sleeve is long enough to give yourself a very sound joint. Make sure your plug/sleeve is non-metallic so as not to interfere with the detector.
 
If heating the glue doesn't work. You could always cut the tubing above the hinge, leaving enough of the original tubing to facilitate reattachment. Either by an internal "plug" or external sleeve. Just make sure your plug/sleeve is long enough to give yourself a very sound joint. Make sure your plug/sleeve is non-metallic so as not to interfere with the detector.

Yes, I am looking to use the dive shaft that was included with the detector and use a internal plastic dowel with epoxy to butt connect the dive shaft to the standard lower shaft to make one long lower shaft. At 6'7 tall, the standard lower shaft is a bit to short for me and after a hour of detecting my lower back is screaming, and I see no possible sane reason to spend $100+ on a aftermarket shaft when I can modify what I already have. I dont need a straight shaft as I removed the control box and battery from the upper s shaft and put it in a small backpack which I can either wear on my back, or wear the backpack in the front and have a small chest mounted pack. So the s-shaft works just fine for me, just needs to be about a foot longer.
 
You might consider calling the manufacturer and ask them what method they use to attach that thing. Also, be careful heating, pulling, "tapping" twisting that hinge, eventually it might just break. The fact that heating it the way you did and it didn't budge tells me, it may be another method of attachment. As was mentioned, most all commonly used adhesives would have softened enough, at that temp, to loosen up. Maybe even a repair center would know how that thing is on there. Just don't fatigue it by trying.
 
Thank you all for the great ideas, I ended up cutting it off flush at the joint on the band saw and then drilled it out perfectly center on the lathe.
 
That'll do. now to find the right sized tubing and your in. After drilling it out, could you tell how it was attached, just curious.
 
That'll do. now to find the right sized tubing and your in. After drilling it out, could you tell how it was attached, just curious.

5/8" od 1/2" id pvc tube fit perfectly inside to butt connect the two, I made it 4" long, 2" for each side of the shaft. I filled the center of the pvc tube with 2 part epoxy to form a solid plug, then once semi hard I epoxied and connected the two rods together. When drilling it seemed like the plasic coil mount was pressed in about 3 inches into the rod. If it was epoxied I coundnt tell by the shavings. I dont see why they would press fit into fiberglass and chance cracking/splitting it during production. So now my bone stock s shaft is 8" longer. :)
 
5/8" od 1/2" id pvc tube fit perfectly inside to butt connect the two, I made it 4" long, 2" for each side of the shaft. I filled the center of the pvc tube with 2 part epoxy to form a solid plug, then once semi hard I epoxied and connected the two rods together. When drilling it seemed like the plasic coil mount was pressed in about 3 inches into the rod. If it was epoxied I coundnt tell by the shavings. I dont see why they would press fit into fiberglass and chance cracking/splitting it during production. So now my bone stock s shaft is 8" longer. :)
Good for you bud, glad it worked out for ya.
 
5/8" od 1/2" id pvc tube fit perfectly inside to butt connect the two, I made it 4" long, 2" for each side of the shaft. I filled the center of the pvc tube with 2 part epoxy to form a solid plug, then once semi hard I epoxied and connected the two rods together. When drilling it seemed like the plasic coil mount was pressed in about 3 inches into the rod. If it was epoxied I coundnt tell by the shavings. I dont see why they would press fit into fiberglass and chance cracking/splitting it during production. So now my bone stock s shaft is 8" longer. :)

Would love to see some pics of this Mod!
 
Wouldn't it have been easier to have removed some from the other end. Most of the locks in a shaft can be shortened by drilling another hole.
 
I see you got it took care of, so I'm "late to the party" as well. I'd have looked into building a short extension to add between them, it could have still been removable, and not had to have cut either factory pieces.

That said, looks good! :cool:
 
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