If heating the glue doesn't work. You could always cut the tubing above the hinge, leaving enough of the original tubing to facilitate reattachment. Either by an internal "plug" or external sleeve. Just make sure your plug/sleeve is long enough to give yourself a very sound joint. Make sure your plug/sleeve is non-metallic so as not to interfere with the detector.
Unless they used hi temp epoxy, most adhesives release about 200 deg F. So boiling water should do the trick. If it's a press fit that should also work.
That'll do. now to find the right sized tubing and your in. After drilling it out, could you tell how it was attached, just curious.
Good for you bud, glad it worked out for ya.5/8" od 1/2" id pvc tube fit perfectly inside to butt connect the two, I made it 4" long, 2" for each side of the shaft. I filled the center of the pvc tube with 2 part epoxy to form a solid plug, then once semi hard I epoxied and connected the two rods together. When drilling it seemed like the plasic coil mount was pressed in about 3 inches into the rod. If it was epoxied I coundnt tell by the shavings. I dont see why they would press fit into fiberglass and chance cracking/splitting it during production. So now my bone stock s shaft is 8" longer.
5/8" od 1/2" id pvc tube fit perfectly inside to butt connect the two, I made it 4" long, 2" for each side of the shaft. I filled the center of the pvc tube with 2 part epoxy to form a solid plug, then once semi hard I epoxied and connected the two rods together. When drilling it seemed like the plasic coil mount was pressed in about 3 inches into the rod. If it was epoxied I coundnt tell by the shavings. I dont see why they would press fit into fiberglass and chance cracking/splitting it during production. So now my bone stock s shaft is 8" longer.
Would love to see some pics of this Mod!
Wouldn't it have been easier to have removed some from the other end. Most of the locks in a shaft can be shortened by drilling another hole.